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Thread: My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB

  1. #4361
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
    You mean like just pull the engine out and do it on a stand? lol
    D'oh... this would be tough for me... is it really that much of a difference in ease/time ?? It'll be a parking lot job Unless I thought I could do it in a weekend... hhmmmm.... What are the chances of needing head surface work done, for a gasket blown between two cylinders??? didn't ever overheat or anything... how long does it take to do at least new valve seals/seats/guides and all??? I could always push it out of the shop if I'm not done by the next Monday morning.... !! Or roll the engine hoist & stand outside... so many options... desire to do it - growing..!!!!

  2. #4362
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    If she fails again I got a nice engine in a certain 92 Grand Marquis you can have for the right price...
    "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ..................................."Blue" 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

    Vicky
    Too much stuff to list in my signature...
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    Mods So Far:
    5.0 HO Swap from 92 Cougar, GT40 Intakes With Remanufactured GT40P Heads, Contour Cooling Fans, Autodimming Mirror With Compass, Frankensteined but fully functional JBL Premium Sound System, Working A/C, Big Front Brake Swap, more mods to come soon!

  3. #4363
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    ARP bolts and Cometic head gaskets. I was told by a lot of people at E-Town and the local speed shop that is the way to go. They're pricey, but for a performance application, you save yourself a lot of trouble.

  4. #4364
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Head gaskets are easy. Unbolt all of the things attached to the heads and remove. Unbolt the heads and remove. Change the bad parts, bolt it back together.

    honestly the worst aspect of the job, particularly with iron heads, is the physical access. Lots of leaning over the fenders, and hauling the heads in and out sucks ass. None of it is particularly complicated, its all just a bunch of heavy awkward shit.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #4365
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    What about doing valve guides/seats/seals??? Isn't this something one should do at that time??

  6. #4366
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if you're taking the heads off a lopo, the best place to fix them is the scrap yard. Put something better back on, even if its just stock E7 stuff. Those you should at least put valve seals in. You can lap the valves if you want to but for it to be proper the seats likely need to be cut and the exhaust valves replaced. Not exactly worth the money you'd spend on it for what they are. For a used lopo I'd just put usable E7 heads with fresh valve seals on and call it a day.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #4367
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Just to be clear. No failure of head bolts this time around. The bad ones were weeded out/replaced after the first two times they gave way and forced me to removed the heads. This time was because of a small oil leak i had between the gasket and the head at the number 5 cylinder. You could see some smuck slowly bubble out after a run right behind the alternator above the power steering pump bracket.

    My write up would be pretty flawed as I have a mish mosh of stock and aftermarket parts/hardware.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  8. #4368
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    honestly the worst aspect of the job, particularly with iron heads, is the physical access. Lots of leaning over the fenders, and hauling the heads in and out sucks ass. None of it is particularly complicated, its all just a bunch of heavy awkward shit.
    This heavy awkward shit ain't nothing compared to doing diesel heads with engine still in the truck. There if one values their lower back they would be wise to pull the front fenders off (and preferably the wheels as well). Box Panther stuff is much more manageable, especially if exhaust is fairly recent.

    Quote Originally Posted by 85crownHPP View Post
    What about doing valve guides/seats/seals??? Isn't this something one should do at that time??
    It absolutely may need to be done. Last two sets of heads I took to machine shop, both needed seats recut and the last pair needed guides too, at only 50k miles at that. For what the whole shebang costs, I'm with Gadget that it's best done to nicer heads, like the GT-40s. Which coincidentally is what the aforementioned heads that needed work were...
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

  9. #4369
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Seen a post on another forum reguarding adjusting rockers. Read someones response and one part of it did not jive with what I was doing all along since 2015 when I built my motor. Did more digging and research only to find I am the dummy who did not write the procedure down correctly in the first place.

    All along I was rotating the motor over and looking for the exhaust valve to open signaling for one to adjust the intake valve, then waiting for the intake valve to just start closing (like fully open and just coming back down) and then adjusting the exhaust valve, all the while the proper procedure calls for one to allow the intake valve to JUST about fully close then adjust the exhaust valve.

    At least I only have to adjust 8 exhaust rockers and not all exhaust AND intake. Plus the upper intake is not on yet either!

    Don't know how much of a difference this will make with how she preforms but I guess it cannot hurt to correct something that was obviously done wrong all these years.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  10. #4370
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    doesn't matter. If the intake valve is open, the exhaust valve is not and vise-versa. Starting to open vs starting to close is splitting hairs.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #4371
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Maybe so. I just cannot let it go though and will correct so I don;t have that stuck in the back of my mind all of the time.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  12. #4372
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    The hell with going by just open vs just close, watch when the valve is fully open and count one full crank revolution from there (half a cam revolution) and you will be on the base circle of the cam 110% for sure - do this one valve at a time and you simply can't mess it up.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

  13. #4373
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    that also works fine. Basically if it was wrong you 'd know it by now. If the motor isn't chattering away like a bunch of spray paint cans, its where it belongs.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #4374
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
    The hell with going by just open vs just close, watch when the valve is fully open and count one full crank revolution from there (half a cam revolution) and you will be on the base circle of the cam 110% for sure - do this one valve at a time and you simply can't mess it up.
    Ive also seen a variation of this mentioned at times.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    that also works fine. Basically if it was wrong you 'd know it by now. If the motor isn't chattering away like a bunch of spray paint cans, its where it belongs.
    This is what I was initially thinking. Nothing was ever audibly out of the ordinary before with my settings so things couldn't have been too bad.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  15. #4375
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Ive also seen a variation of this mentioned at times.
    It's practically fool-proof. Downside is that's a lot of crank turning - may wanna manually spin the oil pump a few times, just to make sure you don't run the main bearings dry.

    How do you adjust your rockers anyways, are you still using the factory-style pedestals setup or do your heads have the studs with the guide plates?
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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