My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB

[Tiggie]

Always wondered about how those seat belts came apart. Good exploration!

And the car is sounding better and better. How fast was that?

[Brown_Muscle]

Nice! So many details put into your car. Engine sounds great, everytime your transmission...found its way into the next gear, I cringed! lol

[gadget73]

I was wondering about the latching, the difference in the buckle is what I noticed right off.

A magnet will tell you what they are made of. Slightly magnetic is stainless, really magnetic is steel. Lesser grades of stainless can rust, and different alloys are variously magnetic but none of them will pull like regular old steel will. They're probably chrome or nickel plated steel, stainless is generally more expensive and more of a PITA to work with for no benefit in that application.


I half wonder if tripminder accuracy is a function of the fuel trim correction. I don't know the name of it but there is some multiplier value that comes from the long-term trim learning that basically multiplies the fuel table by whatever amount. Maybe the further from "1.0" that multiplier is, the more screwed up the tripminder gets. It might get its output before the multiplier is considered. Honestly I've never seen a logic flow diagram for the EEC-IV processor to even have a guess as to what precisely that fuel flow output wire is reading from. I doubt its straight off the injector pulse width output because that would allow it to only work for one specific size of injector, otherwise it would be totally out to lunch.

[86VickyLX]

Tripminder will be more off. Trust me. They always are. And there's not a way to correct the fuel flow pulses with those computers. Or so I've been told by the BIN hackers. You can modify the 'DOL' signal on the 94-95 mustang, however, there's not a confirmed output pin on the ecm for it. They say it might take place of the a/c wot relay output. Which is kind of pointless unless you don't have ac.

[gadget73]

A microswitch on the throttle lever or a manifold vacuum switch can handle that job. Carb cars managed WOT cutout without a computer.

I figured the fuel flow output was un-corrected but I'm just curious what precisely it reads from. If its right off the fuel table before the long term trim corrections kick in, perhaps making the fuel table more dead-nuts so that it doesn't have to trim so much would make it more accurate. Probably won't ever get it perfectly accurate but "less wrong" should be obtainable. I also wonder if maybe the tripminder hardware itself might have some calibration function. I do not understand digital electronics, so it would need someone who's expertise is rooted in things made post-1975 or so.

[sly]

dang... that slushbox shift. Mine bangs gears better than that... but that's with the lopo. I do need more HO in my life.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

This thing needs fox mustang seats. With halos, of course

Fawk no, if them things are what I think they are they suck something fierce! Mark 7 LSC are what's needed here, the kind with the adjustable bolsters and the extendable front support for the occupant's legs. Supposedly made by Recaro too.

[87gtVIC]

Always wondered about how those seat belts came apart. Good exploration!

And the car is sounding better and better. How fast was that?

Thanks.

120ish on the first WOT run.

Nice! So many details put into your car. Engine sounds great, everytime your transmission...found its way into the next gear, I cringed! lol

Thanks Phil.

I gotta look into how tightening up the TV cable works. I may tug on it a bit and see what happens. She's coming out eventually whether it be by way to poor mechanical abilities (poor TV adjustment) or torture by way of "pedal meet floor."

I was wondering about the latching, the difference in the buckle is what I noticed right off.

A magnet will tell you what they are made of. Slightly magnetic is stainless, really magnetic is steel. Lesser grades of stainless can rust, and different alloys are variously magnetic but none of them will pull like regular old steel will. They're probably chrome or nickel plated steel, stainless is generally more expensive and more of a PITA to work with for no benefit in that application.


I half wonder if tripminder accuracy is a function of the fuel trim correction. I don't know the name of it but there is some multiplier value that comes from the long-term trim learning that basically multiplies the fuel table by whatever amount. Maybe the further from "1.0" that multiplier is, the more screwed up the tripminder gets. It might get its output before the multiplier is considered. Honestly I've never seen a logic flow diagram for the EEC-IV processor to even have a guess as to what precisely that fuel flow output wire is reading from. I doubt its straight off the injector pulse width output because that would allow it to only work for one specific size of injector, otherwise it would be totally out to lunch.

Magnet test will be done to satisfy curiosity.

I have seen all of the tripminder and MAF/HO talk and just wanted to add some more data. Honesty, when I heard all of you guys talking about HOW far off things were I was going to pop in the clock delete plate I have. I will play things out and see how she does. It is useful for telling you how many miles you went (if that is even accurate!) as the police speedometer does not of a trip counter anymore.

Tripminder will be more off. Trust me. They always are. And there's not a way to correct the fuel flow pulses with those computers. Or so I've been told by the BIN hackers. You can modify the 'DOL' signal on the 94-95 mustang, however, there's not a confirmed output pin on the ecm for it. They say it might take place of the a/c wot relay output. Which is kind of pointless unless you don't have ac.

dang... that slushbox shift. Mine bangs gears better than that... but that's with the lopo. I do need more HO in my life.

I will try and adjust cable tension. Maybe it can firm things up a smidge. It is just a stock AOD (rebuilt to stock YEARS AND YEARS ago) with a B&M Shift Improver kit as well as a Trans-GO AOD Hi-REV kit and a 2400 Stall convertor. Was never planning on keeping the AOD.

[86VickyLX]

Tripminder mileage is accurate as long as your speedometer is accurate.

[packman]

I like the Fox body fly-by at the end of that 2nd run. My bad, the beginning of the 3rd run. Were you playing with him before then?

Packman

[87gtVIC]

That is my dads car. He was not interested in "playing."

[87gtVIC]

1998-2002 Sway Bar Install

Installed the 1 1/8" sway bar I pulled from a 1998 Crown Victoria in the yards.

It was not in too bad of shape to be quite honest but I stripped it down entirely and repainted it with some Ford Red.



At the same time I also upgraded the mounting situation in the chassis. I drilled and filed it out to accept the clips with bolts the newer 1998 frames utilized (this may even be found on earlier models but I cannot confirm).






I installed the sway bar with new Moog K8953 End Links as well as Energy Suspension 9.5170R 1 1/8" Poly Bushings.







Was a bit tricky tightening the bolt that goes through the spindle. Had to get a piece of wood and wrap it in a rag and use it as a pry bar between the frame and endlink to put pressure on it so the bolt would not spin while tightening the nut. It all got done and all looks good.

[sly]

Shiny

[jaywish]

So do you like the new sway bar feel?

[Bobcat]

Installed the 1 1/8" sway bar I pulled from a 1998 Crown Victoria in the yards.

It was not in too bad of shape to be quite honest but I stripped it down entirely and repainted it with some Ford Red.



At the same time I also upgraded the mounting situation in the chassis. I drilled and filed it out to accept the clips with bolts the newer 1998 frames utilized (this may even be found on earlier models but I cannot confirm).






I installed the sway bar with new Moog K8953 End Links as well as Energy Suspension 9.5170R 1 1/8" Poly Bushings.







Was a bit tricky tightening the bolt that goes through the spindle. Had to get a piece of wood and wrap it in a rag and use it as a pry bar between the frame and endlink to put pressure on it so the bolt would not spin while tightening the nut. It all got done and all looks good.

Aye, now our swaybars are like the same. Dope bro. I got lucky and didn't need to use a pry bar, though I could see how that might be needed.

Your dad seems like quite the stern character, I do appreciate the father-son bonding time on the side of an interstate. Best place to have heart to heart conversations about fuel consumption.

God it's so funny hearing your car idle in the video, since it literally sounds just like mine. I love it.