Originally posted by gadget73
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If I had a hand in it, the "anything" would be Ultra Grey. And good luck backing that shit out easy, being that I actually clean block threads with acetone-dipped Q-tips after I'm done chasing them with the tap - overkill is underrated, and I just don't trust the pipe dope in an application where there is pressure and high heat on one side of a non-interference thread. Pipe threads on the other hand, yeah teflon-dope those any day.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit. -
Its been together for years, doesn't leak. Also may have been Permatex #2. Honestly its been long enough that I don't remember, and since its not causing me grief I don't particularly care.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Oh I get that, it really doesn't take much to make them not leak. I was just saying that the ease of removal is inversely propotional to the insanity of the person who installed it - you tend to do things logically and in a manner suitable for the application, I go for overkill every single time and that typically ends up biting me in the posterior down the road
The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.Comment
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Welp..here is where I am at:
She be broke right at the base of the head.
Surrounding area around the broken bolt is the recessed room for the head dowel.
Center punched the bish and started to left hand drill her. Not removed as of yet. Getting extractor tools then proceeding.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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I honestly would have figured it would fetch up on the drill and then spin right out. If you're using a bolt extractor, you want the biggest one possible. Drill the hole as large as you can without blowing through the side of the bolt. The small extractors break, and are an absolute pain in the ass to remove once they do.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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May still be able to use an external EZ-Out socket on it, it will go into the recess for the locating dowel. But yes, as Gadget suggested go with the fattest extractor possible, really sucks to break one into the very thing you're trying to remove.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.Comment
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We should have been warned that this is Broken Bolt month :-/Comment
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After a left handy drill bit proved to be unsuccessful we went the extractor route:
Oh yeah!
Compared to a unborked one:
Head back on a torqued in sequence/stages 30, 40, 50, 70:
Lube applied to the washers and long bolts. Thread sealer applied to the short ones.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Any trash down in the treads that the tap pulled out?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Are those stock bolts? The ARP bolts that I got have a smooth shank. Yours is tapered. And what bolts did you put back on there? Sorry for all the questions.Comment
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I believe the stock ones with the step indicate torque to yeild bolts. Thems are the ones with the torque value then rotate X degrees type instructions. I presume the ARP bolts will have their own installation destructions if its something other than the stock settings.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Factory TTY bolts do not use washers. They do however have flanged heads, that's how you tell them apart - if it's got a regular hex head you can reused it, if it's got a flanged head it's a one-time-use TTY bolt and should be tossed and replaced with new. Also obviously one should not mix and match TTY and non-TTY bolts on the same head. Doing one head with TTY and the other with reusables is OK, tho idk why one would wanna do that...The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.Comment
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I had a trick flow headbolt kit. I purchased the same exact thing this time an received arp box with bolts. I don't know what to say.
Intake is now on after cleaning all surfaces:
Adjusting the rockers comes next.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Glad to see it going back together.
87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.
91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.
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Yeah fuck that job, hope you have an easier time with it than I did with you know which engine...Originally posted by 87gtVIC View PostThe ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.Comment
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