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    heater problem and tried many things...

    car as standard heat controld not ATC. the servos move when you switch the settings yet always blows from vents. has very little heat and i backflushed the heater core and nothing there and cut an access panel in the box inside car to visibly inspect it. it blows heat thru the hole i cut , but doesnt seem to get through the vent system. i can block the hole and STILL doesnt blow as warm thru vents as the hole. as i mentioned before, the servos move when i change settings from floor mix vent defrost and a/c settings. the heat setting cable/wire moves the door all he way where it needs to go from how it is supposed to move between the cold and hot settings. any ideas? it always blows 90% of air thru the vents and almost nothing thru the defrost. any help is appreciated and need this fixed asap since car is used daily.

    Gadget... if you read, i thought you had pictures of a heater core change somewhere and would like to see pics of it to get idea of how it is all in there connected.
    Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

    #2
    i take that i put up a stumper question. does anybody have pics of a heater core install so i can see the duct work? i am thinking of making another inspection hole in the duct work and see if the panel door is jammed or somethin in there causing it to only work on vent and nothing else. as i mentioned previously... the vac servos all move and are connected to the vac lines and the arms that connect to the duct work doors from what i can see. i change settings and the servos move the rods, but cant really tell if a duct work door is stuck on something or if the rod popped off the door. i just wanna get the car set up to at least make it work out the defrost on dash to keep windows cleared of ice and fog when driving. the inspection hole i made to check the heater core is about 4x4 inches and when putting the piece back on i left it gapped so air can get thru there some to help with heat since heater core warms up.
    Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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      #3
      did you try pulling the vac hose off the blend door??
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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        #4
        i have sorta the same prob with my merc with reg heat control, only when the engine it at op temprature will minimal heat come thru just the pannel vents and a lil thru the defrost witch hardly defogs the windshild

        1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
        1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
        1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
        2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
        2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

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          #5
          Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post
          did you try pulling the vac hose off the blend door??

          the blend door is what controls from hot to cold? if so, that is connected by the cable and has full movement and goes all the way open to where the arm sticking out the box stops against the slider opening of the box. it moves the way it is supposed to along with everything else i can visibly inspect for issues. i need to get an idea of how the doors are inside the vent system. that is all i cant see unless i get ambitious and cut another inspection hole in the duct work to look inside.
          Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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            #6
            Could be the blend door broke off the rod thats supposed to move it. When you move the lever, do you hear anything clunking behind the glovebox? What about if you pull the cable off the crank arm and move it manually? You should be able to feel the door go fully closed and fully open. If it doesn't seem to actually hit a stop, the box needs to come out of the car for a repair. There are a few other doors that take care of where the air is supposed to come out. Those are broken in my car, I get more air out of the vents than anywhere else.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #7
              it clunks when i fully move the switch to the hot setting. i am thinking of cutting another inspection hole and adding in my own vent that goes from heater core to the defrost vent. just need something to clear windshield and get air across the windshield.
              Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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                #8
                Dear Panthers,
                It seems like the heater/AC system is one of the things Ford engineers did wrong. Scott and Thaine finally got mine to work after my lcal mechanic had failed twice. Donald

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                  #9
                  jim
                  my bets are on a broken blend door

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                    #10
                    yea id switch through all the settins and see if you can watch the linkages to see if one isnt connected to the door. not easy but may be hte only way to see if one of hte doors isnt opening.

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                      #11
                      the vacuum motors can move but if the door inside is broken off the rod, it wont do anything. usually thats what happens, the parts break internally. The easily replaced stuff never screws up.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #12
                        well that frickin figures... if it is a broken blend door i will find it and make it to be open. i will make an inspection hole and recover it with a metal cover plate held by 2 screws. i dont wanna waste time pulling it all out... just WANT HEAT
                        Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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                          #13
                          is there a quick or easy or any solution to this problem?

                          1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
                          1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
                          1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
                          2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
                          2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            yes, take the air plenum out and fix it. Only takes a few hours to get the box out. Stab a new heater core in while its apart and fix the air doors to route air properly and you've got a brand new system. Its only 18+ year old plastic, can't imagine why it wouldn't still be working perfectly.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I remember when I did my heater core. There were screws and bolts in those blend doors. WHen I took them all out, the air coming out was stronger. My floor setting never worked. But after I did the heater core, it worked.

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