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Thread: Alternator wiring diagrams: 1G, 2G, and 3G

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    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    Default Alternator wiring diagrams: 1G, 2G, and 3G





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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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    Told ya everything I know when I said hello P72Ford's Avatar
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    Good stuff Michael. I should do a 3G swap on my car...
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    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    I've posted these in a few threads here and there, and I thought I'd make them easier to find. I asked Thain if he'd like to sticky this thread.
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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I actually saved the 3G one on my computer from another thread just in case it was never to be seen of again on the interwebz.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    This 1G diagram is more better than the one I whittled up. Ivan linked to it in bubbaking's thread after it became clear that he really needed the terminals labeled. Maybe this can also replace my diagram in the tech archive thread as well.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1G-ALT_wiring.gif  
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    Thanks!!

    Oh btw, if I go to the parts store and ask for an alternator-- will it necessarily be 3g, good for 165 amps, nowadays? Or is that a particular request?

    I don't often make it to junkyards... and if the price difference is not so great, would prefer new to 10 years old and 150k miles with some rain into the open hood.

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    fuck no, not today, thank you kindly 1990LTD's Avatar
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    If you ask for an alternator for your car you will be given a 2G probably 65a (small case) or 100a (big case)



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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    parts store will usually charge somewhere near $200 (around $180 +/-20). Junk yards generally have them around $60-90. Some yards that I've seen selling on ebay have had them as low as $35, but after shipping it's closer to $60.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
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    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    Guess I should have replied on here instead of in a PM.

    - The Box Panther 100A alternator was a large-case 1G. Complicated and pointless to retrofit that to a 2G car when swapping a small-case 3G is like falling off a log.

    - 3.8L Mustang alternators (small case 3G, 95A) can be had starting at $100ish at Autozone ($80ish if you're Scott), or starting around $25 used (check car-part.com for listings in your area). I used 1995 as a reference model year in my searches.

    - I recall Scott telling me he gets large-case 3Gs (130A) from Tauruses, but don't remember the details (year, engine).
    Last edited by 1987cp; 08-30-2010 at 12:23 AM.
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    For the 2g alternator, the wide connector with the two 12 or 10 gauge black wires-- both are hots if I'm reading that right?
    And-- when I install my 3g alternator, do I want to use them, or do I want to run a fatter cable straight to the battery?

    Any harm in maybe even doing both --taking the original charging cable and fitting o-ring terminals to attach them to the 3g, AND running a large gauge cable to the battery-- after all, the more total wire gauge the less loss right? But I have a memory of running two A/C hots together that were out of phase and ending up with 220V at a 110V outlet,scared the crap out of me when it started sparking and burning up-- don't want to do that if that could happen.

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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yes the two fat cables are hot. I would just run a nice 4 gauge wire from the charge stud to the battery or starter solenoid. Eliminate the old 2g alternator wiring and fusible link BS.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    do not use the 2G wires. They are not large enough for a 3G. You will burn them up if you use them. You can also disconnect them from the wire-mess at the starter solenoid.

    I used one of the charge cables from here and just ran it across the top. The charge stud extender would be a wise purchase too (and would have given me the slack needed to not use another 6" battery cable extension). They also had assembled versions when I ordered. Apparently that's changed. You can also use bolt down battery/starter cables (4 gauge wire or fatter) and just get one long enough to make it to the fender where the charge cable megafuse should be (175A on mine) and then another short cable to the starter solenoid.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  15. #15
    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    Interesting link, though an unnecessary expense IMO. You can reuse the 2G regulator plug (it's the same) and eliminate everything else. Can attach the stator wire around to its new home with a spade terminal or see if AZ has the proper plug; other than that, it's basically just a starter cable for charging and a ring terminal to loop the yellow wire back around to the charging stud.

    +1 on not reusing the ancient stock charging wires. You can fish them out of the headlight harness if you ever have the ambition to do so.
    Last edited by 1987cp; 05-02-2011 at 11:50 AM.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1987cp View Post
    You can fish them out of the headlight harness if you ever have the ambition to do so.
    I thought about this... then I saw the sheer amount of re-taping needed and said... NO. I just cut the fuse link off on the battery side of the car... removed the link from the starter solenoid and tossed it. If I ever get a serious motor to go into that car... THEN I will consider removing that trash. The extra 3-5 pounds of wire ain't hurting anything.

    I'd have to be really epically bored to even consider doing this without having dern near everything out of the front of that car.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  17. #17
    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    Amusingly, I had the headlight wiring out of my car a couple years or so ago to make some repairs, but at that time I was still making use of the old stock alternator wiring. It's actually not that big a deal to fish the headlight harness out of the nose of the vehicle, and if nothing else it'll be happening if and when I get around to upgrading the headlights to a relay system.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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    Hey--
    Looking at the wiring diagrams, and then at the alternators, the sole difference was that the y/w wire, in the middle of the harness, disappears into a main loom for the 2g, but for the 3g, loops over to a little single-wire harness right next to the main one?
    That, and put in a bigger charge cable. Otherwise, the 2g harness plugs right in? I should be good if that's the case. If there's any reason why you would cut off the 2g harness altogether and need to custom solder on the 3g harness, then I've done it wrong.

    Starting up my engine after sitting for 3 weeks, battery light came on about 5 minutes ago, but there are lots of reasons why the battery light could come on. Just want to make sure it's not the alternator wiring

  19. #19
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    right. The only reason I soldered the 3G harness onto my car was that I didn't have to pull it out of the alt when I installed it. I have bad luck with those damn tabs.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  20. #20
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    hmm...
    I recharged the battery last night: I have a jump box, so I plugged in the jump box to charge, and then I hooked its cables up to my battery as if to jump it.
    Unless I learned my electricity 101 wrong, that ought to charge both the jump box AND my car battery together.

    Checked it this morning, battery reads 13+ volts. Seems charged to me.

    Battery light is still on though...
    Could there be something I did wrong with the alternator wiring that could have messed with the dash idiot light?
    In the original harness, the black wires are now disconnected, as I have a new 4gauge charging cable,
    AND the Y/W wire was different on the 3g alternator, it looped back to another spot on the alternator rather than disappearing into the loom.
    By clipping that, could I have cut off the idiot light, so now it sees 0V and thinks there's a problem?

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