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Thread: Alternator wiring diagrams: 1G, 2G, and 3G

  1. #21
    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    Only thing going to the idiot light is the wire to the field coil. And your alternator obviously won't work without that attached.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Click below to buy my cool '81 LTD:

  2. #22
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    I don't actually know that it is working
    could anything on the old harness be backwards from the new 3g alternator, any of those 3 wires in a different spot?

    It does sound like something's off, doesn't it.
    I'll plug in a spare, if dysfunctional, 2g alternator and see if the light goes off.

  3. #23
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    The idiot light is the red and green wire that actually runs power through your printed circuit (idiot light) and tells the alternator to turn on. It also has a resister built into it to light the idiot light because it senses something is wrong. Do you have the belt on the car? are all of the connections tight and secure is the alternator a new or used one?

    And the voltage regulator plugs are the same between the 2g and 3g. No wires would be in different positions.
    ~David~

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    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  4. #24
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    OK. I'm going to switch back the W/BK wire and see if that does anything.. even though it shouldn't.
    Hmm, the charging cable-- that can go to any hot, right? Well, not any, but it's ok being on the fender starter solenoid, the continuously-hot side of course? Or is that my trouble?

    Yes, it's being actively run. Oddly, I'd had the old alternator plugged in and not being driven at one point, and the battery light was NOT on.

    It's a used one, but I had it tested at salvo and it tested fine. Put in new brushes.

  5. #25
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Starter solenoid is fine for them. What do you mean by switching back the white and black wire. The white and black wire should be the wire coming from the voltage regulator to the singe spade terminal on the alternator itself.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  6. #26
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    right, and that was the only wire I changed from the 2g harness. It used ot disappear into the loom... if I wire it back the way it was (into the loom, instead of to the spade terminal)?
    Yeah, it doesn't sound right to me, either.

  7. #27
    Member hypostang's Avatar
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    The only wire you need to reuse on the car is the green wire
    This is how it should look
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P5080006.jpg   P4270011.jpg  


    1988 Signature Series Town Car

  8. #28
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    Ok-- so you have the green wire going back into the stock wiring loom?
    Where do you have the yellow wire going to? I reused that wire, too.

  9. #29
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    I figured the yellow wire in the stock harness already had to go back to hot, somewhere-- so I could just leave it be. Would that result in the alternator just not functioning?
    I tested earlier, in fact, my battery voltage DROPS when the engine is on. Voltage must be backfeeding into the alternator, it's not keeping up.
    Should I take that yellow wire and loop it directly over to the fat red charging cable?

  10. #30
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    The stock yellow wire is connected to the starter solenoid with the stock black / orange stripe wire,at the end of a fuse link , If you disconnected the stock black/orange wire you disconnected the yellow also .
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Take the yellow wire and loop it around to the charging post like in my earlier pic and you should be all set, this should make it a little clearer
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P5080007.jpg  
    Last edited by hypostang; 05-08-2011 at 07:10 PM.


    1988 Signature Series Town Car

  11. #31
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yes do that please. The yellow wire originally (on my car) traveled back with the two fat charger cables and eventually spliced into them through fusible links. So if you removed the ring terminal from the starter solenoid that was originally for the alternator you removed the voltage sense wire.

    For god sakes..white/black wire from voltage regulator to spade terminal on the alternator. Yellow wire to the charge stud and red green wire connected to the stock red/green wire.

    damn daryl beat me to it.
    ~David~

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  12. #32
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    Thanks.
    I didn't miss this... just seemed clear that it must end up back at a hot anyway, why make more work for myself?
    Testing it now

  13. #33
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    huh, nope, no change. The battery's dropping, of course; so right now the battery reads 12.5x volts, and when I turn the car on, and the alternator is running, it drops to 12.2x volts. Back to 12.5x volts once I turn the car off again.
    Voltage is going to "charge" the alternator, rather than the other way around....

    Could the alternator tester at the auto parts store have lied?

  14. #34
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    It could have , I would just double check that you have everything wired correctly , is so take it to a different store and get it checked .


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  15. #35
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    I've got the green cable left in the original 2g harness, left alone.
    I've got the white wire looping over to the small single-wire harness that's only on the 3g-- not there on the 2g.
    I've got the yellow wire going over to the charging cable now.
    I've got the charging cable going to the battery.
    Just for good measure, I added a fat ground wire on the back, but shouldn't have been necessary.

    Honestly, it doesn't seem that complicated. The above is all correct, right?

  16. #36
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    So it looks exactly like thisClick image for larger version. 

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    If so you are correct, and just to clarify your green wire is connected to the car right ?
    Last edited by hypostang; 05-08-2011 at 08:12 PM.


    1988 Signature Series Town Car

  17. #37
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    green wire disappears into the original wiring loom, wherever that may go (in theory somewhere in the dash)

  18. #38
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    does the voltage change with engine revs? if not, could be bad continuity in the charge cable or a bad voltage regulator.

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  19. #39
    Mazda5: the Anti-Van! 1987cp's Avatar
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    Have you verified that the green wire is still providing key-on power? If not, feel free to tap it into any key-on power source.
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  20. #40
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    When the key is in the on position --starter not yet engaged, but power is there to all the dash lights-- I should have 12V on that line?

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