lower the gain till you notice ZERO distortion. aftermarket speakers arent really designed to handle BUNDLES of BASS. Be sure to also match up the RMS of the speaker to the AMP you have. More power DOESNT MEAN better sound.
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just as a suggustion try using a diff amp jensens are known for blowing out on 1 side for some reason and they work great until they do that sounds to me you have a blown channel BTW how much did you pay for that amp?
I hope it wasnt like 200 dollars or something lol you can get a nice hifonics for that which is what i would reccomend oh and see if you have a biglots near you , also see if they carry visonic speakers i put a set in my linc and they are plenty loud without an amp. also if i where you id go and get another set of 6x9s pioneers arnt bad ,visoniks,polk audio,mbquart all also make some good speakers some cheap some not so cheap all depends what you want to do. i personally dont run a whole lot of bass through mine when i have a sub in the back.Last edited by zoomie; 06-30-2009, 02:11 PM.89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....
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Originally posted by OneBadLSE View Postlower the gain till you notice ZERO distortion. aftermarket speakers arent really designed to handle BUNDLES of BASS. Be sure to also match up the RMS of the speaker to the AMP you have. More power DOESNT MEAN better sound.
Originally posted by OneBadLSE View PostBesides, Jensen amps are JUNK.
Originally posted by zoomie View Postjust as a suggustion try using a diff amp jensens are known for blowing out on 1 side for some reason and they work great until they do that sounds to me you have a blown channel BTW how much did you pay for that amp?
I hope it wasnt like 200 dollars or something lol you can get a nice hifonics for that which is what i would reccomend oh and see if you have a biglots near you , also see if they carry visonic speakers i put a set in my linc and they are plenty loud without an amp. also if i where you id go and get another set of 6x9s pioneers arnt bad ,visoniks,polk audio,mbquart all also make some good speakers some cheap some not so cheap all depends what you want to do. i personally dont run a whole lot of bass through mine when i have a sub in the back.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Originally posted by 87gtVIC View PostYou are just like my father Nate. He said the same thing but insisted to add that all i do is drive the car to school and back so whats the point of getting new speakers.
I haven't been using the radio in the Ram. Teh exhaust is all the music I need...**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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Yea i will lower the gain. And on my head unit i have an custom equalizer where i can set mids highs and lows, and everything you could imagine it also has crossover frequencies and such for the sub i have. I definitely gotta re look this but what i really need is an expert to tune my system for me!. But for now i took my fathers and Nates advice and just let it be. It is still very loud at just volume 20.
BTW this is the Head unit i have installed. I really really love it.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QAQlyP6...H-P4000UB.html~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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I lowered the gain. It helped out a tad. It only makes the horrible sound during a song with heavy bass. I do have a sub woofer installed as well, not one with an external amplifier though but is ran through the head unit. How can I direct more bass to it and take the load off of the rear 6X9's. Listed below is the settings i have on the headunit and where i currently have them set at. If all else fails i would love to have Pete adjust it for me during scottfest.
SW (subwoofer) setting 1: Normal
SW setting 2: 80HZ +4
High Pass Filter: 100HZ
Bass Boost: +1
EQ setting 1: Low +6, Mid +5, High +6
EQ setting 2: Low 80HZ Q1W, Mid 2KHZ Q2W, High 8KHZ Q1W
Loudness: Mid
Frankly i have not one clue on what those settings mean on the EQ number 2 settings.
All help appreciated. Like to get as much bass as i possibly can directed to the sub.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Wait, your 6x9's run off the amp, but the sub is powered by the head unit?? That aint right...
My 6x9's are Kenwood dual cone (not 3 way or 2way, but dual cone - looks like a factory speaker) getting 50 watts RMS from an alpine amp, and I can crank it to uncomfortable levels with no distortion. None of my interior speakers are receiving the lowest frequencies (ones they cant effectively reproduce anyway)
You need to figure out your speakers' frequency response (some provide you with a nice response curve plot) and make sure they arent getting something they cant handle.
I would run all inside speakers off the HU (turn the bass down) and the subs off the amp. You cant power them off the same source, unless its using a 5 channel amp with separate frequency crossover for the sub(s)
Unless maybe your head unit has separate powered outputs just for the sub? Even if so, I doubt any head unit can power a sub very well.
Most head unit EQ settings for a sub only control the non-powered RCA sub outputs, which are meant to provide input to an external amp for the subs.
I also noticed in the specs for your head unit that its pre-amp voltage is 4 volts - I want to say this is high, 'normal' is 2volts IIRC, this means you need to keep the gain below "normal" for it to sound good.Last edited by 85crownHPP; 07-03-2009, 09:44 PM.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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haha I know what you mean. My dad says oh you don't need new rims and 275's, suspention, 3.73's, and duals... you just drive it to high school. Right now I'm in the process of convincing my parents to let me run flowmaster 44 dualies dumped at the axel(also will double as my radio haha). It is my car so in the end it will work out hehe.
... and the more I do to the car, the more my parents ask me if they can drive it
way to go bud hope u get the speakers sorted out, my buddy solved that by adjusting the amp adjusters and stuff... oh btw, I like your ride.Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4
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Originally posted by 85crownHPP View PostWait, your 6x9's run off the amp, but the sub is powered by the head unit?? That aint right...
See: Maximum Power Output: 50 watts x 4 channels (or 50 watts x 2 channels at 4 ohms + 70 watts x 1 channel at 2 ohms for subwoofer)
Switchable Rear Channel/Subwoofer Output: The rear speaker outputs can be set to provide full range output with full fading capability, or they can be set to provide non-fading subwoofer (low-pass) output. When the rear speaker outputs are set to subwoofer mode, the rear preamp outputs also switch from full range to subwoofer outputs. When set for subwoofer operation, you can connect the rear speaker leads directly to two small 4-ohm passive subwoofers or a dual voice coil sub with 4-ohm voice coils. If you prefer to use a single 2-ohm subwoofer, you can connect the woofer to one set of speaker leads, leaving the other set of rear leads disconnected. The maximum output provided when a 2-ohm load is connected to one set of leads is 70 watts.
as per my radios specs.
My 6x9's are Kenwood dual cone (not 3 way or 2way, but dual cone - looks like a factory speaker) getting 50 watts RMS from an alpine amp, and I can crank it to uncomfortable levels with no distortion. None of my interior speakers are receiving the lowest frequencies (ones they cant effectively reproduce anyway)
You need to figure out your speakers' frequency response (some provide you with a nice response curve plot) and make sure they arent getting something they cant handle.
I would run all inside speakers off the HU (turn the bass down) and the subs off the amp. You cant power them off the same source, unless its using a 5 channel amp with separate frequency crossover for the sub(s)
Unless maybe your head unit has separate powered outputs just for the sub? Even if so, I doubt any head unit can power a sub very well.
Most head unit EQ settings for a sub only control the non-powered RCA sub outputs, which are meant to provide input to an external amp for the subs.
I also noticed in the specs for your head unit that its pre-amp voltage is 4 volts - I want to say this is high, 'normal' is 2volts IIRC, this means you need to keep the gain below "normal" for it to sound good.
Any suggestions on how to change the settings i have listed?
Edit i think i see my problem???
Switchable Rear Channel/Subwoofer Output: The rear speaker outputs can be set to provide full range output with full fading capability, or they can be set to provide non-fading subwoofer (low-pass) output. When the rear speaker outputs are set to subwoofer mode, the rear preamp outputs also switch from full range to subwoofer outputs. When set for subwoofer operation, you can connect the rear speaker leads directly to two small 4-ohm passive subwoofers or a dual voice coil sub with 4-ohm voice coils. If you prefer to use a single 2-ohm subwoofer, you can connect the woofer to one set of speaker leads, leaving the other set of rear leads disconnected. The maximum output provided when a 2-ohm load is connected to one set of leads is 70 watts.
I am just confused with that whole paragraph though~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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I think you are right - that says if you used two sets of RCA cables to keep the 'fade' ability, this means your rear 6x9's are getting the same extra low frequencies and bass boost the sub is, and isn't getting any mid or high range, and is why they sound crappy at high volume, since its running your rear speakers in 'sub mode' too.
Looks like the head unit cant make the rear speaker outputs "sub mode" without making the rear RCA outputs that also. They probably weren't counting on anyone having it set up like yours.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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Originally posted by 85crownHPP View PostI think you are right - that says if you used two sets of RCA cables to keep the 'fade' ability, this means your rear 6x9's are getting the same extra low frequencies and bass boost the sub is, and isn't getting any mid or high range, and is why they sound crappy at high volume, since its running your rear speakers in 'sub mode' too.
Looks like the head unit cant make the rear speaker outputs "sub mode" without making the rear RCA outputs that also. They probably weren't counting on anyone having it set up like yours.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
Comment
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If you hook up the speakers to the HU and the sub to the amp, it will probably work a lot better.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
sigpic
85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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Originally posted by 85crownHPP View PostIf you hook up the speakers to the HU and the sub to the amp, it will probably work a lot better.
that is usually the norm...and sounds like the head unit wud be more than enuff of an amp for the normal speakers. Thats how my setup is run.-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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