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    #31
    okay cool. And this is what some others are doing to simplify the wiring?



    Or the opposite jump down at the new starter?
    Attached Files
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
      okay cool. And this is what some others are doing to simplify the wiring?

      Or the opposite jump down at the new starter?
      Yes, and that is essentially what this kit from Summit does for the Chevy crowd. It includes a jumper bar of metal to connect the two positions on the starter solenoid, and then you hook up the remote mount 'Ford style' solenoid somewhere else.

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1750/

      Someone mentioned earlier in the thread that they never head of a solenoid being bothered by heat. Let me tell you, on a big block Chevy with headers, the Ford style setup is the way to go.
      sigpic
      1988 Grand Marquis LS (White Lightning), 2003 Mercury Marauder (SOLD),1979 Mercury Cougar XR-7
      http://landyachts.homestead.com/page5.html,1951 Merc on a '88 Lincoln Town Car Chassis:http://landyachts.homestead.com/index.html

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
        Awww, I like the old-school whine of that old starter. I can't change mine just because of that. Also, I like the idea of retaining my solenoid on the fender instead of down at the starter where it can get overheated.

        Is there any way you can remove the solenoid from that starter in order to make the package that much smaller? Also, is the bigger starter the only thing stopping people from using mid-length headers?
        on my car with the long tubes i had a problem of heat soaking the factory starter. went with a powermaster mini hi-torque and never had the problem again. im using both solenoids but i had to add a relay because there was not enough power flowing through the ignition switch to turn both 'noids. just used a ford fuel pump relay to trigger the second 'noid.
        http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
        http://secondhandradio.com/

        R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
          okay cool. And this is what some others are doing to simplify the wiring?

          This is what I'd do - I hate running extra wiring where there's heat and high current draws, this way everything is still rather self-contained and less likelyto rub against shit and melt and short out.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by JDG View Post
            This is what I'd do - I hate running extra wiring where there's heat and high current draws, this way everything is still rather self-contained and less likelyto rub against shit and melt and short out.
            Not to mention it is a hell of a lot quicker to do.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #36
              I'd be concerned about the new starter pulling more amps than the relay can handle. Hook it up the way the factory did it. Its probably that way for a reason. The new trigger wire has really small current draws, so you don't need a large wire. 16 ga is plenty.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by The Auntie Christ View Post
                Essentially, with installing a new-style starter, all you are doing is putting both big battery cables on the side of the original old-style solenoid closest to the battery, and simply unplugging the small 'S' wire from the solenoid (it should be marked), extending it, and hooking it up to the 'S' on the new starter.

                I've done this over a couple of dozen times with customer vehicles and my own cars over the last decade and a half or so, after mistakenly discovering that the 91-up cars had the small starters....and they worked pretty well with higher-compression engines. I refuse to install an old-style starter, unless the customer is insistent on keeping the old-style in there, as the new-style is simply a better unit.

                This seems real easy. I haven't been under it yet but there's only one wire going to my old timey starter, right?

                Which wire is it on the solenoid? Since you said unplugging I'm assuming it's the 90 degree boot shaped little guy.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #38
                  I also, obviously, don't know dick about the fender solenoid. Basically any information I can get that would be useful when doing the wiring changes...

                  You're putting both fat battery cables (+/-) on the side closest to the battery itself , and then just moving that tiny wire OFF of the solenoid and ON to the new starter? Am I reading that correctly?


                  What are the positions/terminals on the starter itself?
                  Last edited by 1990LTD; 04-17-2010, 01:16 PM.
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Archangel View Post
                    This is what I'd do - I hate running extra wiring where there's heat and high current draws, this way everything is still rather self-contained and less likelyto rub against shit and melt and short out.
                    So with this method I'm just jumping the terminals together down on my starter?

                    Does wiring remain the same up above, or..? Sorry for the persistent and probably stupid questions guys, I'm mechanically and elctrically retarded and want to make sure I'm not blowing anything up before I turn the key


                    The only wire running to my starter now is the hot one, correct?
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I might have to try this when the current starter goes bad. It looks pretty straightforward
                      Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
                      New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by hemihotrod402 View Post
                        I might have to try this when the current starter goes bad. It looks pretty straightforward

                        Seems it. I'm not even doing it, apparently. Showed up at the garage and guy had an explorer in there without the engine getting some welding done, so the bay was tied up. He told me to leave it with him so I told him about the difference in the wiring and gave him the diagrams posted by Dave.


                        The Explorer was a 2000 and had the exact same starter that I am putting in my CV...mine is shinier though...hope they don't freak about the core charge when I bring back a slightly different starter
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          #42
                          gear reduction starters FTMFW.



                          needed a new fender solenoid, as that was evidently my problem the other day when i started my frantic no start thread and i falsely concluded it was my battery connections. no parts stores open so he grabbed one from the ranger he's selling (that he replaced like two weeks ago) replaced the battery cables after the solenoid anyway after the other repair work, because, why the fuck not? they were old. i had to experiment to see just how much cranking it needed to turn it over...it starts in like half of the time of the old one. it sounds better, too.

                          PMGR =
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Why does this not work? I used a mini starter so I could get to town for parts and this was all I did, it worked fine. (Keep in mind I didn't care how good it looked as it was for that day only)
                            Attached Files
                            1990 LTD Crown Vic w/ dead 5.0
                            1984 Pontiac 6000 cammed 2.5L Iron Duke
                            1986 F-150 300 6cyl 5spd.
                            1994 Crown Vic... Free, bad trans?

                            Comment


                              #44
                              there's your problem...it's not actually attached to a car
                              sigpic


                              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                              Comment


                                #45
                                So after all this all I have to do is jump the two bolts together on the small starter! No other wires are needed to use the smaller starter? Just take the big old one out stick the new small one in, jump the bolts together, put the old wire back on, and it is good to go?
                                89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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