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    Alternator Wiring

    Alright, yet another question because of the swap. I was going to put my 3g alternator on this motor since the car is already wired for it but I guess you need a different bracket to make that work :confused:. Anyways I was going to put the stock 100 amp (off a p.i.) but I dont have the factory harness so I have no clue what color wire goes to which prong. Anyone know which wire goes to which? IIRC, with I probably dont, there are three or four wires (I think three) in the car that go to the alt and they are black with a strip, orange with a strip, and green with a strip. Dont hold me to the colors I could be wrong but it is dark and I am to lazy to lift the hood back off tonight. The prongs on the alt are also marked but I cant remember the letters. Thanks again.

    #2
    Grab a 3G alternator from a 3.8 Taurus, they have the large-frame case and will be a direct bolt-in with your brackets. The external regulator wiring is quite the clusterfuck, I'm really happy I no longer have to deal with it.

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      #3
      all the original wiring is still there, I originally followed instructions that left all the original wiring intact, you just tapped into the wires. I am eventually going to go back to a 3g money permitting.

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        #4
        Did the car originally come with a 100amp externally-regulated alternator?

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          #5
          I guess I should explain, I am swapping this motor into a fox body. I motor is out of a c.v. with the 351 p.i. The fox body had the 1g 65 amp and the c.v. had the 100 amp.

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            #6
            1G to a 1G, you should be fine. Should "plug" (bolt) right in, provided you don't have issues with the larger case from the Vic 100A unit.

            Here's a linky to the schematics in the tech archive ... I can't vouch that all the wire colors are exact, but with luck they'll be close. This should be all you ever really need to know about alternator wiring.

            http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=29844
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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              #7
              I think it is a 1g atleast. I am not 100% sure. I never really heard of the different "g"s untill the 3g swap. I had the 3g in the stang with the modified harness with the plugs for the orig. 87 alt (whatever "g" that is) still there and none of them match up. It bolts right up (alt was on the motor when pulled) but wont plug up so I was going to make my own. I think I might be able to get something figured out with the schematics, I will keep you all posted.

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                #8
                On later box bodies, the standard 65 amp alternator was a 2G (first-gen internally regulated; works OK but is a slight fire hazard and still has poor output at low RPM) and the 100 amp that came on police models and cars equipped with InstaClear windshields was a 1G.
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                  #9
                  I went out and looked at the alt. and none of the diagrams match what I have? I wiring colors match but the plug locations do not. I know it is a ford alt because it has Motorcraft e1 stamped onto the back of it. If you are looking at it from the back starting on the left it has the battery lug, then a recessed spot with two prongs for a plug, the way the prongs are turned the are shaped like an unconnected "T". Then you have a smaller lug to the right. The smaller lug is labeled GRD and the prongs are labeled FLO & STA with FLO being on top.

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                    #10
                    Oh, well, the plug locations on those diagrams are basically irrelevant. I've seen pics with 3G charging lugs, for example, on either the back or the side of the case. As long as you connect them just like on the old alternator you should be fine.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                      #11
                      Which brackets are you using, Panther or Fox brackets? And which Panther brackets? The 100 amp brackets are different than the 65 amp brackets, but handily there are 2 different size 3g cases so you can use either type. 3.8 Taurus alts fit the 100 amp brackets, 3.0 Taurus fits the 65 amp brackets.


                      The studs are FLD (field) and STA (stator). Those corrospond with the F and S terminals on the external regulator. I on the external regulator is the green/red wire that goes to the idiot light, or you can just wire that to a key-on hot wire. The other remaining wire ought to be B, and thats the battery reference wire. Run that one straight to the starter solenoid. The regulator case also must be grounded for it to work properly. The actual wiring colors seemed to randomly change from year to year, but the markings on the alternator and the regulator did not, so just go by those.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #12
                        Alright, that makes a little more sense now. I am using the Panther bracket that came with the 351 and 100 amp. Atleast I now know why the 3g wouldnt fit. Guess later on I am going to have to hit the j/y and get one off a 3.8.

                        So if I am following you correctly the way this beast needs to be wired is the BAT lug goes to the battery (duh), the GRD goes to a solid ground to ground it, now I am lost as to which wire goes to the field and which goes to the stator. I was trying to compare what you where saying with the diagrams in the other thread but for some reason my mind could not wrap around it. Unless what you are refering to as "F" on the diagram is what looks like an "A" to me. In that case let me see if I got it right:
                        Yellow/white goes to FLD and BAT
                        White/Black goes to STA
                        Green/Red goes to to the starter solenoid but what the Green/Red goes to the key hot

                        I AM SO CONFUSSED!!!!!! Thought I had it figured out too.
                        Last edited by bubbaking; 08-13-2009, 09:22 PM. Reason: new info came up when I posted this

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                          #13
                          Did some more thinking about this and THINK I got it figured out.

                          Yellow/white goes to FLD and BAT
                          White/Black goes to STA
                          Green/Red goes to to the key hot
                          Black/Orange goes to the starter solenoid

                          Hopefully this is correct

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                            #14
                            I'm getting a bad feeling that we should redo that diagram again if this really is important information ....
                            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                              #15
                              the field goes to the regulator, and to the regulator only. There is no connection to the battery on the field circuit. If you wire it that way, you'll get something like 18 volts out of it, and no regulation at all. Running the field at full battery voltage is whats called a full field condition, aka "gimme all you got".

                              The colors are not important, it just needs to go from field on the alternator to the corrosponding spot on the regulator. Usually its marked F, but I suppose it may be marked A for armature.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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