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    #16
    try .023 wire dont forget to make sure you have the proper contact tips and drive rolls. Dont go to the Home depot for welding shit, stop by a local airgas or welding supply shop and tell them what machine, thickness of metal and what size wire you want to run. Most stores will be willing to help get you the shit u need. Home depot will most likely not have contact tips or any other parts like that. Plus the welding store will sell you the supplies much cheaper.

    40 volts huh? Thats not even close, I dont even run 40 volts at work welding with .045 wire on 3/8 steel with 700ipm. Thats pretty much max, production mig work. I weld 10ft + without stopping in about 2 mins which is fuckin hawt and fast lol. It bleaches the color right off any shirt and will cause 3rd degree burns just from the arc rays hitting your bare skin.

    MAKE SURE YOU ARE OPERATING ON DC- POLARITY WITH SELF SHIELD FLUX WIRE!!!! This is very important!!!! That might be your issue right there. That will cause everything to go to hell if its not right lol. The way to tell is inside the machine there should be two lugs marked + and -. Make sure the lead going to the gun is on the - post and the ground lead is on the + post.

    What kind of machine are you using? Does it have ABCD volt and 12345... wire speed? Sounds like it. On the machine or in the manual, there should be a table that can point you in the right direction with different size wire.

    If there is the letter and number controls what you can do is set up your machine and make your own settings. The way to do this for wire speed is set it at its lowest, snip the wire clean with the end of the contact tip. Then feed the wire for 10 seconds and measure. Multiply that number by six and you have what inches per minute you are running at that setting. Do this a few times to see how much wire you are pumping at different settings and make note of it. For volts, have a little bit of wire sticking out and loosen the drive rolls so it wont feed. Hook a voltage tester to the wire and a ground and see what your volts are at the different settings.

    With .035 wire your settings should be about 80ipm and 15 volts, maybe 14volts 60ipm if thats too hot. If your welder doesnt have ipm or volts marked that sucks. Try finding it with the procedure I stated above.

    I dont know why they did that. Its supposed to be easier for a first timer to figure out but it makes it a pain in the ass because every welder that has the dummy dials is different. Its hard for me to give advice without being there to test it out.

    Welding on very thin shit is difficult for anyone, your best bet is to go to a smaller wire like .023 and take you time and jump around to keep from overheating one spot, if you hurry you will pump more heat into it and blow through every time. So far you are getting the job done, I'm just trying to add my 2 cents to make the welding part go much easier and learn from it better. Welders are not like a mitre saw that you can plug in and cut wood and forget the manual with no expirence. There is alot of theory and setting the machine is always the biggest hurdle to jump. Alot of people say they can weld and have lots of expierence, especially factory floor welders. Get them in the field and have them set up there own machine and they are useless.

    If you can post a pic of inside the machine for me and the front so I can see the dials.

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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      #17
      what pressure should you run the shielding gas at?

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #18
        Mig, with 75/25 or 100% CO2....35-40 cfh's usually works best. Anywhere between 30 and 45 works too. Try to keep the doors closed and any drafts out. I know it sucks in the summer. Shielding gas blows away real easy even with the simple draft of the garage door open or a fan going. You'll know it when you get pinholes in the weld, the area turns black or the weld looks kinda sparkly.

        Dont crank it up too high or the high volume will pull regular atmosphere into your weld pool as well. Called the "venturi effect"!!!!

        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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          #19
          its a Millermatic that my shop bought years ago. nobody ever bought gas cause flux core
          is cheaper and we dont weld often to switch to gas but the polarity is set up for flux core.we also bought tips wire brushes gloves tip cleaners slag hammer all from home depot back when we needed the welder to weld so i take advantage of this ill get pictures tommorow

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            #20
            got the rear brace on
            Attached Files

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              #21
              Originally posted by rellik god View Post
              its a Millermatic that my shop bought years ago. nobody ever bought gas cause flux core
              is cheaper and we dont weld often to switch to gas but the polarity is set up for flux core.we also bought tips wire brushes gloves tip cleaners slag hammer all from home depot back when we needed the welder to weld so i take advantage of this ill get pictures tommorow
              Ok cool, dont bother with the tip cleaners, they are for oxyfuel welding and cutting only. The contact tips should be replaced as soon as they get melted, or misshapen, You want that contact tip to be as clean and perfect as possible because thats what transfers the juice to the welding wire. Having a good proper size contact tip is a must. In a pinch you can use one, cause I definetly have.

              Glad to see ur not using a harbor frieght welder, I made that poor descision years ago starting out. I need to see some pics on the matic to see what your using. Alot of different millermatic models from 115v to 440v monsters.

              2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
              My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Mercmarquis View Post
                Mig, with 75/25 or 100% CO2....35-40 cfh's usually works best. Anywhere between 30 and 45 works too. Try to keep the doors closed and any drafts out. I know it sucks in the summer. Shielding gas blows away real easy even with the simple draft of the garage door open or a fan going. You'll know it when you get pinholes in the weld, the area turns black or the weld looks kinda sparkly.

                Dont crank it up too high or the high volume will pull regular atmosphere into your weld pool as well. Called the "venturi effect"!!!!
                Scott was actually asking about output pressure at the regulator on the bottle. For quite a while I was going through gas like no tomorrow, I'm talking a full bottler per 2lb wire spool, then we looked at the pressure and it was in the 20s! Dropped it down to 10psi dead-head and 8psi while welding, and it's freakin great now, I did quite a lot of welding lately and didn't run outta gas at all, and the welds look nicer too.

                Comment


                  #23
                  what kind of regulator are you using? Every one I've seen for an Argon mix or CO2 is measured in CFH's (cubic feet/hour). I have seen people use oxygen regulators in a pinch. Those are measured in PSI. Frankly I dont know what kind of pressure you should be running in PSI. I do know that the volume is whats important, not the pressure. Which is the main reason CFH is used.

                  :edit: called a buddy... Told me some of the cheaper/older regulators measure in PSI. 8-12 psi is a good starting point. It wont be consistent, if you notice a black char area around the weld, pin holes, or rough appearance, crank it up a little bit 2 psi at a time.
                  Last edited by Mercmarquis; 08-25-2009, 08:33 PM.

                  2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                  My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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                    #24
                    heres the welder
                    Attached Files

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                      #25
                      Thats a good machine for a 115v. Having that chart really helps alot, I'd try 1.5-2 on the volts and around 30 for wire speed on the thin sheet metal. that chart is pretty much the only thing you can go by unless you measure and remark your machine for standard settings.

                      If its still too hot, turn down the wire speed first, if it starts to melt the wire off before it can make it into the weld pool, then turn down the volts a little bit. Basicly you always want to adjust the wire speed first, that ultimatly controlls the amount of heat you are putting in. Then adjust your volts to compensate. The voltage controlls the fluididity of the puddle. Too little volts and the welder will pulse and jab back at you. Too much and the wire will burn off before it gets to the weld or melt all the way back into the contact tip. Hope that helps!

                      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                      Comment


                        #26
                        got the spare tire out and more holes so more patches
                        Attached Files

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                          #27
                          more holes
                          Attached Files

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                            #28
                            more pictures
                            Attached Files

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