lead load bodywork repair

[tjltd]

Hi guys, just wanted to know what you guys think about this technique, i know is oldschool but would love to try it, i already have some experience with body fillers. Is it to much the hassle?

here's a linky:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upn_20rqGE4

thanks

[1987cp]

I've played with using rolls of large-diameter lead solder from the hardware store to fill things like small holes left from removing badges. It really worked rather well, and didn't take me a long time to learn how to make it stick (there are tricks I didn't try like taping a piece of aluminum to the back of your workpiece). I remember finding it to be a little less hassle than some other methods, for example plastic filler that tends to remain porous on the backside and welding that tends to burn through and/or warp the panel. The biggest reason I haven't experimented any more with lead recently is that plain lead solder is getting very hard to find around here ... maybe one of these days I'll order a couple sticks of real body solder from The Eastwood Company ....

[tjltd]

i saw the eastwood lead kit and it looks really nice to start doing some minor repair work, gonna check it out, i guess most of us don't want to go to the trouble and Bondo is way quiker and practical, but it just seems more fun and i think more durable than the filler is.
There was and old man not far from my house who i once saw him do repairs with lead, he had a lot of A-body fords and roadsters in his shop that he restore for collectors, one time that i talked with him (he was very nice) he told me that whenever i wanted he could show me how to do repairs with lead, sadly i haven't seen him again in his shop, its always closed and the neighbors don't know nothing about him.

Anyways i appreciate the tip, gonna look into it more and probably order a kit from eastwood. thanks

[Grand Marquis GT]

Lead is cool!!

[gadget73]

Years ago that was the only way to do repairs. If you know what you're doing, it looks great. The problem is doing it on large flat metal surfaces. You have to be real careful not to warp the metal by heating just one spot.

[Mercmarquis]

make damn sure the surface is clean of everything, and use plenty of tinning butter, then wipe it clean with a clean rag or bronze wool works well too. Make sure you keep the paddles tallowed often. When it comes to heating and oxy/acetelene torch is best with a neutral flame. Heat the entire area evenly but avoid getting it too hot as the lead will run right off or not even stick to the metal causing voids and flakes later on. You want it just hot enough to stick and get soft enought to form with the paddle. If its too cold it will flake off as soon as you stick a file to it.

Get a good set of files, all different shapes, you'll need them on your first time. More than likely you will need to do more than one application to fill all the low spots, alot of people use a thin body filler but thats the easy way out. Whats the point of leading then?

The biggest hassle is getting all the shit to do it, the bars, torch, paddles, butter, tallow, files, sanding discs ect... Its also a bitch if you cannot rub your belly, pat your head, chew gum and play with you dick at the same time lol. Its time consuming but if you do it right it lasts way longer than plastic or fiberglass fillers. You gotta try it, there are too many metal working and welding arts getting lost, keep it alive and learn it to master it.

[1987cp]

Its also a bitch if you cannot rub your belly, pat your head, chew gum and play with you dick at the same time lol.

So, can you accomplish that feat?

[Mercmarquis]

its not pretty but i get the job done lol....

[tjltd]

make damn sure the surface is clean of everything, and use plenty of tinning butter, then wipe it clean with a clean rag or bronze wool works well too. Make sure you keep the paddles tallowed often. When it comes to heating and oxy/acetelene torch is best with a neutral flame. Heat the entire area evenly but avoid getting it too hot as the lead will run right off or not even stick to the metal causing voids and flakes later on. You want it just hot enough to stick and get soft enought to form with the paddle. If its too cold it will flake off as soon as you stick a file to it.

Get a good set of files, all different shapes, you'll need them on your first time. More than likely you will need to do more than one application to fill all the low spots, alot of people use a thin body filler but thats the easy way out. Whats the point of leading then?

The biggest hassle is getting all the shit to do it, the bars, torch, paddles, butter, tallow, files, sanding discs ect... Its also a bitch if you cannot rub your belly, pat your head, chew gum and play with you dick at the same time lol. Its time consuming but if you do it right it lasts way longer than plastic or fiberglass fillers. You gotta try it, there are too many metal working and welding arts getting lost, keep it alive and learn it to master it.

thanks mang i appreciate it, looks like you already have done this technique before, and you are absolutely right by saying we must keep old arts alive, this is one that is almost gone. I'm sure going to try it, need to order the Eastwood kit first

[Mercmarquis]

I've messed around with it, by no means am I an expert on it but I've had pretty good results after some practice. Definetly give it a shot, but take your time and make sure you have everything. If you're using a propane torch I dont reccomend it on larger repair spots, you'll have a hard time controlling the heat.

Most all of metal forming, and the practices that go hand in hand with it are almost lost arts. Most body shops dont even weld in patches anymore, they use epoxy. Somewhere in time people decided that quality doesnt matter anymore. And the right way of doing things took a back seat to doing it quick and easy. No body beats metal into shape with shot bags and hammers anymore, you dont see anyone leading either. Oxy fuel welding and brazing is going out too. I've been trying to learn these techniques as much as i can because I want to keep it going and teach others, plus the wow factor of looking at what you've done is an amazing feeling. Nothing better imo, than flames, metal, sparks, arcs, and big fuckin hammers

[DuceAnAHalf]

something that has not been mentioned yet is breathing protection. you should find a good respirator with filters for use with heavy metals, unless you want lead poisoning

[Mercmarquis]

If hes getting it from eastwood, it should be lead free body solder. If using actuall lead based solder, then yes wear a resperator when sanding and filing.

[gadget73]

Its hard to get real lead for anything these days, even electronics solder is moving away from lead. Quite annoying because the lead free stuff doesn't mix as well with old lead solder. I've used the lead free plumbing solder with good results though, but thats on virgin pipe sweating. Trying to melt lead free solder on a vacuum tube socket from the 1930s just doesn't work so well.

[Cable Guys FGMQ]

Lead is cool!!

I agree..