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    #16
    Fuel pressure is at 30psi with the engine off (since it won't run). I hooked up a vacuum pump to the FPR, but it really didn't seem to make any difference when I applied vacuum to it. I assume this is because the engine wasn't running and there was no way for it to restrict flow and therefore pressure.

    TPS sits at 1.05 volts with the throttle closed and KOEO.
    Last edited by 91waggin; 10-07-2009, 10:23 PM.
    Originally posted by gadget73
    There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
    93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
    Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
    Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
    95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

    Comment


      #17
      I went and pulled the upper intake again, and I noticed that the pcv hose had come off the hookup on the upper intake. Replaced that, replaced the entire upper intake, and still no cigar.

      Question: If I hook a vacuum gauge to a hose while cranking, should I show much vacuum? I'm not showing any, but I don't know whether that has to do with the fact that I have a massive vacuum leak somewhere or the fact that I shouldn't be showing any vacuum while cranking. :poop2:
      Originally posted by gadget73
      There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
      91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
      93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
      Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
      Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
      95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

      Comment


        #18
        You're not going to see any change in fuel pressure if the pump isn't running. Engine must run, or you have to jump out the fuel pump circuit on the diagnostic connector to read fuel pressure. Forget which pin it is, but its the only one with 2 wires going to the same spot on the connector. Jump that to ground with the key on, and the fuel pump will run steady. You should see around 40 psi with the pump jumped on and the engine not running. If thats OK, and you can verify spark, try some starting fluid. If it fires on starting fluid but dies, I'd think you lack injector pulse. There is a little test light thing you can use to confirm that. Only thing that comes to mind that could possibly cause that is TPS way shot (you are in range), or a whacked out pickup which isn't sending information to the ECM to fire the injectors.

        usually won't show much of anything on the vacuum gauge with the engine cranking. Maybe a flicker on the needle but nothing you can actually use for diagnostic purposes.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #19
          Ok, found some more time to work on things.
          1) Replaced the coil, because it tested slightly out of spec, and it was only $15.
          2) Hooked up my fuel pressure gauge while I jumped the fuel pump off of the self-test connector and got ~45 psi. Pressure moved down the gauge when I applied vacuum to the FPR.
          3) Tried to start the car with the fuel pump forced on, and it does what it always does, which is crank, fire, rev up, and die.

          I have a new TFI module waiting in the wings, but I haven't installed it yet. I haven't been able to find a socket that will remove the retaining screws. It seems like it's a 5.5mm, but I can't find one that has narrow enough walls to get it in there.
          The reason I think it's the TFI is because it will fire in start mode, but the moment I return the key to run mode it wants to stall, as though the TFI module was no longer allowing spark to be distributed.

          To rehash:
          My symptoms are that the car won't stay running. The engine will crank, it will fire, rev up to about 1500, and then stall. Giving it more gas will give it a second or two more of erratic runtime, but there's nothing I've been able to do to keep it running.
          Originally posted by gadget73
          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

          Comment


            #20
            You want the TFI removal tool. Its a funky thumbwheel looking deal, should be able to find one at the parts store for 10 bucks or so.

            TFI does have a start and a run power section, so thats a very good possibility.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #21
              I took a 5.5mm socket to a bench grinder and it did the trick.
              1990 LTD Crown Vic w/ dead 5.0
              1984 Pontiac 6000 cammed 2.5L Iron Duke
              1986 F-150 300 6cyl 5spd.
              1994 Crown Vic... Free, bad trans?

              Comment


                #22
                Well, thought you guys might like to know--it turned out to be the MAP sensor, strangely enough. I'd been under the impression from this site that the MAP rarely went bad, but this one was. Put a new one in and it fired right up.

                I tried starting fluid and it fired right up and ran for a couple seconds. I put a hose from the fuel rail into a glass jar and it looked as though the fuel pump was aerating. With the end of the hose fully submerged, it looked like seltzer water was coming out the end of the hose. From what a friend who's a professional mechanic told me, that shouldn't be happening at all. But then he went online to some of his subscription services, and they suggested the MAP.

                So my question: Why might I be getting bubbles out the fuel rail? Is this normal? Maybe a shitty connection between the hose and the fuel rail? The car runs fine now.
                Originally posted by gadget73
                There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                Comment

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