KYB: gr2 vs gas-a-just?

[1990LTD]

I won't be using these as my only resource obviously, but does anyone have any up close pictures of the springs or shocks installed?

[gadget73]

May as well have the front shocks installed with the springs if you're planning on doing this soon. They have to come out to remove the coil. I'd also consider doing control arm bushings and probably lower ball joints while you're in there.

[87gtVIC]

May as well have the front shocks installed with the springs if you're planning on doing this soon. They have to come out to remove the coil. I'd also consider doing control arm bushings and probably lower ball joints while you're in there.

Might as well keep going and just install new motor mounts while you are at it. Best to install those with all of the suspension stuff removed.

[1990LTD]

I don't know what either of you are talking about, sorry for the n00bage motor mount is self explanatory but I don't know jack about suspension, and as such, don't know how it's all put together...control arms, ball joints, blah blah blah.

I know we've got coil springs but what type of coil spring suspension do these cars have? I've been reading about types of suspensions online but I don't know where our cars fit in.

[gadget73]

ok, picture time. THis is a 98-02 front suspension assembly, but its basically the same. The upper control arm looks different on your car, but its close enough for illustration purposes.



The lower control arm is the large A shaped thing on the bottom of the stack. The bushings are what the bolts go through to actually attach it to the frame. This is the pivot point for the arm. They consist of an outer metal sleeve, a rubber core, and an inner metal sleeve. The rubber deteriorates over time, and the inner metal sleeve doesn't stay centered in the bushing. What this means is the lower control arm sort of moves around, and not how its supposed to. The arm is supposed to move only in an arc. When the bushings fail, it will move in and out, and it can also twist, pushing the ball joint forward and backwards relative to where it belongs. This produces mushy vague steering and poor handling. The Panther suspension is pretty forgiving of worn out parts so it won't be as obvious as it is on some other cars, but you will notice a difference going from 20 year old deteriorated rubber bushings to new ones. You'll notice the upper control arm also has rubber bushings. On your car, the upper arm is a big stamped steel thing, and it has a shaft that goes through the bushings where it bolts to the frame. Those bushings also go bad.

[1990LTD]

gadget you rock

what's going down the middle of the coil?

[87gtVIC]

shock

[1990LTD]

thought so. tanks!

[1990LTD]

I'm assuming rear suspension is a whole lot simpler since it doesn't need to do any steering?

[sly]

pretty much. once you crawl under the car, you'll see everything. The hardest part about the rear is getting a wrench on the top of the shocks to remove them. a 90 degree air ratchet is VERY handy here.

[gadget73]

if you can get an air ratchet in there. Usually I've had to jam an open end wrench on the nut, and spin the shock out. Putting it back together again is sort of interesting, but once you get the nut, washer, and donut in position its pie.

[sly]

ya know... that makes it sound a LOT easier. I guess I wasn't looking at it the right way.

Another thought... next time I'm under there screwing with stuff... I'm gonna wear some safety goggles over my glasses... lots of old dirt likes to fall off at the slightest touch.

[merc91]

for the top nuts on the rear shock mounts i just turned the nut in the direction of tightening it and rocked the stud back and forth, with the help of a long pipe for leverage. This just snapped the stud off and saved me some time.
the lower rear shock bolts are basterds and you'll have to get crafty in getting them off, but use a good 1/2x3" bolt for your new shocks so you can mangle the existing ones if you like. I put f-150 shocks in the rear to accomodate the taller wagon springs, so the stock replacement shocks for a merc might use a 5/8" bolt i believe.

front shocks take an hour tops for both and no problems.

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[1990LTD]

AWESOME


thanks guys

[Piece-it pete]

pretty much. once you crawl under the car, you'll see everything. The hardest part about the rear is getting a wrench on the top of the shocks to remove them. a 90 degree air ratchet is VERY handy here.

I use a 12" metal blade on a recip saw, eeeheeheeheeheeheeheehee bap! Done. Watch for various lines.

.. I'm gonna wear some safety goggles over my glasses... lots of old dirt likes to fall off at the slightest touch.

It's just not right, working under a car and not getting rust it your eye

Pete