Funny. I know the valve cover for the HOs are aluminum. Never given any thought to the fill tube itself. I can say for damned sure that the fill tube is not cast like the valve cover is. May very well be steel. Magnet test! I like the pie cut idea.
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~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Just have to make sure the aluminum doesn't get too hot doing that. Aluminum gets extremely brittle if you get it hot, so no low down welding or torching methinks.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Tube is steel. You can weld it close to the alu cover, use a low heat setting. You'll need to do that anyways due to the wall thickness of the tube. Also tempting as it may be, don't ground the welder to the VC, use the end of the fill tube instead. All in all it's a lot more forgiving job than TB lever swapping with that plastic bushing under the return spring ready to melt if you so much as look at the torch the wrong way, lolThe ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.Comment
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I heated the tube up so it glowed and tried to bend it with the bottom end supported similar to what Gadget said and tried to buckle it a bit. It ended up trying to come out by the roots from the valve cover but I stopped before it got the chance to break anything. Looked at it, it was canted forward slightly. Mocked it up on the engine with the intake in place, not quite enough to clear properly...so I trimmed down the oil cap wings just a little bit, that gained barely enough clearance for it to screw on/off without interference. Put a bead of RTV around the base for insurance and repainted the tube.
Job well done.Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14
Originally posted by phayzer5Comment
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last one of those I did involved drilling and tapping the shaft on the lathe. I don't have a welder, so alternate methods are required. It involves taking the shaft out of the throttle body though, and that can be a pain in the ass.Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Yeah, them staked screws between the butterfly valve and the shaft... You, friend, need a vertical mill. Then again, so do I, lolOriginally posted by gadget73 View PostThe ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.Comment
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I'd actually love to have horizontal and vertical, preferably in one machine for space reasons, but I'll settle for a Bridgeport or equivalent. Its on the list of tooling to buy. I even know where I want to put it.
Aftermarket throttle bodies don't always use the staked screws though, so at least there is less fighting. The stock ones though, F that.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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On mine just removed the plastic part of the cap. Under it was a rubber ring around what was left to screw in the tube.
It was more comfortable to grab and unscrew than the stock set up using the 5.0 valve coversScars are tatoos of the fearlessComment
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