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    #31
    Originally posted by gsn2984
    If you just have a piece to practice on... try the ground coat by itself, then with a primer, then a ground with a clear and then a primer with ground and clear... might as well see if anything comes out looking close... cover all bases.
    Good thinking, I'll try that.

    On my final product though... it's going to be a pain to get a smooth finish to start on... fiberglass is pretty rough. I"m tempted to put another coat of just finishing resin over it before sanding and putting all the primer/paint/enamel on.

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      #32
      NEVER! I repeat NEVER!.... spray any kind of a topcoat onto any surface that hasnt been properly prepped and primed. Sand the hell outta the finished piece with 80 grit, then hit it with some 100 or 120, then I'd use a good epoxy primer/surfacer if you've got a spraygun. If you don't, just use a good sandable primer from a can. If you're using a spraycan, i'd sand the piece with 280 grit or something close to that before priming. spraycans dont fill scratches as well as heavy build epoxy primers. PPG even makes a couple primers that you can apply with those little 3" rollers they sell at hardware stores. I think the ppg product line is NCP. check at your local autobody store. That duplicolor shit looks good, but i've got no faith in duplicolor. But if it turns out like they show, you'd have to have the surface you're spraying it onto FLAWLESS! Metallics dont like rough surfaces.
      1988 Ford Mustang coupe: 4cyl conversion, 5spd, 600cfm holley, roller rockers, headers, 2.5\" mac exhaust, alum. driveshaft, HD clutch, poor mans posi, blah blah blah.....


      1993 Sable: Ultra Beater

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        #33
        WHenever I decide what to prime with... I'm supposed to sand the primer smooth too, right? Before adding the next coat?

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          #34
          after it's primed, sand the primer down with 400 grit. should get it really smooth, but still rough enough to give the topcoat something to hang onto.
          1988 Ford Mustang coupe: 4cyl conversion, 5spd, 600cfm holley, roller rockers, headers, 2.5\" mac exhaust, alum. driveshaft, HD clutch, poor mans posi, blah blah blah.....


          1993 Sable: Ultra Beater

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            #35
            Awesome. Thanks for the help and suggestions, all of you.

            ANd although it's not qutie chrome, I've used some Duplicolor HI-temp Aluminum spray paint, on a model rocket nose cone, it looked nice. Obviously not a mirror, but still pretty good. I'll give a try of several things.

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              #36
              theres no substitute for the real thing......chrome is teh win!

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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