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Thread: Heater Core Write Up

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    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Default Heater Core Write Up

    Quick link to the 90/91 write-up: Click me!



    John's Write up with Sly's pics and notes added April 23, 2011

    I did this write up almost 3 years ago... I posted it on a Mercury forum... This applies to 1979-1989 Panthers, with some differences found on Town Cars with different number of bolts...
    1990 and 1991 are a little different, probably similar, only difference mainly being having the bomb bag in the way...

    Anywho...
    Heres what you got to do.

    Mark all bolts that you take off, give a discription of where they went.

    Mark all wiring connections that you may disconnect as well.


    UNDER HOOD:
    Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

    Drain coolant until level is lower than the heater core hoses.

    Disconnect heater core hoses. Mark where which one went.

    INTERIOR:
    Remove the dashpad.

    Sly's Note: A magnetic pickup tool may be helpful to prevent dropping the screws into the defrost vents:


    Remove trim around the dash. (Sly's Note:optional for passenger side trim. Actually left the glove box in as well.)

    Sly's helpful trick: Use an allen wrench or T6 if you have the set screw type headlight knob to remove it. Then you don't have to fuss with trying to reach up behind the dash and find that release button.


    Remove kick Panels.
    Disconnect Shift Indicator from steering column.
    (remove cover behind steering wheel, unbolt the white ring. it may be broken, it might not be. Carefully remove wire from black clip on the shifter.)

    (I removed the entire instrument cluster. My speedo cable didn't let the dash come out as far as it could.)

    Remove trim panel below steering column (where the fuse box is)

    Sly's note: There a stamped steel piece that the fuse panel cover attaches to that needs to be removed. One screw on each end. This will allow access to the front steering column retention nuts and allow the steering column to drop all the way.

    Drop Steering Column
    (Find the four bolts on the column bolted to the brace. Socket size 15mm) Before you drop the column, put emergency brake on and chock the wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Unbolt bottom of heater core box, two bolts down by the floor. (remove cover if any)

    Unbolt the dash support nut that is located where the steering column usually is. (10mm nut)



    Nut on bottom side


    Behind the kick panels that you removed, on both sides, you will find a 10mm bolt at the bottom of the dash. Remove them...



    Sly's note: There's also one bolt in the center on the driver side of the ashtray. Get that one too (same size as the ones behind the kick panels)


    close up


    Unscrew or unbolt the bolts at the top of the dash by the windshield. only the ones right by the dash. (1/4" or 7mm bolt or #2 phillips screw driver)



    Pull the dash forward and down.

    Remove the insulation below the windshield to expose a nut behind it. Unbolt it. (Sly's note: accessible from the engine bay in my 88... the following pics are the engine bay nuts to remove)


    And the real hard one to get to from the top (might be easier from under the car)


    Pull the box with the heater core out towards you and pull it down. Clear the holes in the firewall. Long ass heater pipes.

    Sly's note: you may need to remove the blend door actuator to make clearance to get the core out. Two screws and a speed nut and it's free.




    Unbolt the cover on the top of the box. 4 bolts.



    Remove cover

    Pull out old heater core. It'll be a little hard to get out but play around with it a bit and it will come out.

    Save the rubber thing that's wrapped around the core.

    Get your new core.

    Clean out the box where the heater core was out with windex after you wipe all the antifreeze in there with a rag or paper towel.

    Wrap the rubber thing around the new core.

    Put the core back in the box.

    Bolt the cover of box back on.

    Line up box on the studs.

    Bolt box up.

    (Check to make sure that there are no connections disconnected [vacuum hoses, wires wiring harnesses etc.])

    Get dash into position. (You'll have to get it over the air plenum)

    Start a screw on each side of the dash.

    Bolt dash into place.

    Bolt all dash supports back up.

    Connect any disconnected harnesses that you disconnected.

    Bolt steering column back up.

    Reattach shift indicator cable.

    put kick panels and all covers you removed, back on.

    put dash pad back on.

    Reattach the heater hoses

    Put everything back on that you disconnected...

    Refill the cooling system, and start the engine, with the radiator cap off. Run the heater on high. As the engine starts to warm up, the coolant will start to overflow out of the radiator, at this point, put on the radiator cap, fill overflow reservoir. As it warms up, you may notice that the upper radiator hose is collapsing, rev the engine, and coolant should be drawn from the overflow reservoir into the radiator. And the hose will expand...
    Check for coolant leaks and heat. If no leaks, and you have heat, congratulations, you have successfully done a heater core in your panther.
    Last edited by sly; 11-19-2014 at 05:05 PM.
    "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ..................................."Blue" 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

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  2. #2
    "The finder of unobtainium and other magical items" zoomie's Avatar
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    pics of all this are a nice thing
    89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

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    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoomie View Post
    pics of all this are a nice thing
    Yeah, this write up was 3 years ago, when I did my heater core in Vicky the first time. I'll get pics for the next heater core job. Someone will need one for Scott to do...
    "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ..................................."Blue" 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

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    "The finder of unobtainium and other magical items" zoomie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86VickyLX View Post
    Yeah, this write up was 3 years ago, when I did my heater core in Vicky the first time. I'll get pics for the next heater core job. Someone will need one for Scott to do...
    here i will donate to the pic part of this thread


    ------there is a hidden bolt here!
    89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

  5. #5
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    yes. That one in the second picture, that's the one I mentioned behind the insulation. The pic above, I never removed that nut. That particular one, is used to hold the evaporator part of that box, and doesn't need to be removed. It's actually the same nut/stud found behind the insulation.

    Nut= (+)
    stud = (-)
    Middle of stud= !
    firewall = F
    +---!F---+

    Don't undo both!! I made that mistake the first time i did mine, and the stud just spun in there afterwards.
    "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ..................................."Blue" 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

    Vicky
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  6. #6

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    random pics
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    Play me something funky! marquisman's Avatar
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    good write up. but, its not really required to remove much from the driver side. im able to disconnect the heater box and pass side of the dash. it gives just enough room to drop the heater box.

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    RESTORE ... MAINTAIN ... CUSTOMIZE rick99601's Avatar
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    this should be a sticky.
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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Here is a trick to save you hours upon hours.....carefully crack the plastic cover underneath the hood to reveal the hidden nut that zoomie is talking about. I outlined where you would crack the case...just imagine a plastic cover is there...That was a lot of extra work..


    edit...silicone the piece you remove back in once done for a clean job.
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    Last edited by 87gtVIC; 01-22-2011 at 02:00 PM.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  10. #10
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Here is a trick to save you hours upon hours.....carefully crack the plastic cover underneath the hood to reveal the hidden nut that zoomie is talking about. I outlined where you would crack the case...just imagine a plastic cover is there...That was a lot of extra work..


    edit...silicone the piece you remove back in once done for a clean job.
    I know the nut that Zoomie is talking about, but it's not needed for the removal of the heater core box. In the 2 heater cores I've done, (My car 2 times [counting Vicky once since its the same car], and a 1988 Grand Marquis). I have not had to remove any bolts from under the hood. That nut holds the evaporator housing in place, as I had said before, that stud stays in place, and there is a nut hidden behind the insulation, which is the other side of that 'hidden nut' and stud.

    And MarquisMan, I'm sure you can, but when I had tried that, all I could hear was cracking plastic. That's why I went the route of taking down the whole dash.
    Last edited by 86VickyLX; 01-22-2011 at 03:54 PM.
    "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ..................................."Blue" 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    IDK but that is the way a Ford certified technician does it.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86VickyLX View Post
    I know the nut that Zoomie is talking about, but it's not needed for the removal of the heater core box. In the 2 heater cores I've done, (My car 2 times [counting Vicky once since its the same car], and a 1988 Grand Marquis). I have not had to remove any bolts from under the hood. That nut holds the evaporator housing in place, as I had said before, that stud stays in place, and there is a nut hidden behind the insulation, which is the other side of that 'hidden nut' and stud.

    I'm having to replace the Heater Core in my '87 Grand Marquis right now, because I didn't install a coolant restrictor piece in the inlet line, and I ended up ballooning the core.

    86VickyLX is exactly right on here with what he's saying. Should be the same for all years of boxes. There is no need to hack anything during this process.
    89 Lincoln Town Car Signature Ragtop - 5.0 HO swapped, many mods...

  13. #13
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Well I'll be damned.
    With my flow restrictor installed coupled with Ford heater core I hope I dont have to try out this tip. lol
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Well I'll be damned.
    With my flow restrictor installed coupled with Ford heater core I hope I dont have to try out this tip. lol
    as his heater core goes kablewy..lol
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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Haha anything is possible.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  16. #16
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    very nice write up john...

    may i suggest rather than having it suck out off the reservoir to "burp" the system by putting a funnel in the radiator fill hole, filling it with coolant. turning the heat all the way on, then running the car to operating temperature and wait until bubbles stop coming out of the funnel

    both methods work, however i tend to like this better, also certain contaminants can float to the surface of the funnel and then be removed with this method if there are any.
    -Phil



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  17. #17
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    IDK but that is the way a Ford certified technician does it.
    it's called flat rate, look it up sometime.
    Technicians cut corners to make stuff go faster. So they can get paid for a job that supposed to take 4 hours into something closer to 2.5 hours.
    Last edited by 86VickyLX; 01-23-2011 at 01:17 PM.
    "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ..................................."Blue" 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

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  18. #18
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    My dad charges me flat rate.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  19. #19
    RESTORE ... MAINTAIN ... CUSTOMIZE rick99601's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    My dad charges me flat rate.
    i wish my dad was a ford tech.
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  20. #20
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    It sure comes in handy I tell ya'. If he wasn't into cars I most definitely would not be here right now.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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