My 'new' 2003 Grand Marquis.

[sly]

you should, unless you can keep the system open for less than 10 minutes (never known anyone to pull that stunt off without a very good vacuum pump.

[Piece-it pete]

I see, thanks, d'oh. I should've thought of it being open. Oh well. Anyone have any thoughts on cheap Chinese junk compressors? New on ebay they're $150.

Pete

[sly]

is it the compressor or just the clutch? If the compressor nuked, you'll also need to flush the system to get the shavings and crap out of the lines and then add oil back as well. If it's just the clutch... you don't have to open the system at all.

FYI... four seasons reman with clutch 184.79 at rock. so $175.55 after discount.

[Piece-it pete]

Thanks. According to my research egg smell = compressor, but I didn't even look at it this weekend

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

After driving her a bit, a comment: The cop shocks are WAY stiffer. It corners very well, and generally it's OK, but get some rough road and you're in for a jiggle. Some would like it for the handling trade but I personally would use civvie shocks in the future.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Started the big push to freshen the interior, meaning changing the drivers' door panel, changing the dash bezel bit that goes across the front and around the temp control, reskin the seats, remove and scrub carpet, install stereo wiring while the carpet's out.

I had a nice door panel off a 03 Crown Vic, but it didn't have the fake wood insert like my Grand Marquis, just a color match plain one. Since all the bits of the door are built by melting plastic pins, I used a large metal drill bit to trim off the top bit of plastic, the melted part, and then the insert pops out. Drill off as little plastic as possible and go gently - if the drill bit catches the hard plastic on the main part of the door it will break it. Then I took the insert to the hardware store and got the right dia metal bolts in 1/2" and 3/4" long (the plastic prongs that they melt are hollow), a bunch of 1" fender washers and a few small washers for spacers, no worries. Remove the insert from the woodgrain door and install with the screws and washers. If you have a locking trunk release button on your lower door panel don't forget to change it.

The dash bezel, you just grab the end on the pass door side and pull, easy.

I scored a Katzkin interior off ebay a couple years ago that includes everything. The rear upper and lower seat has been done for some time, not hard but you need a hog ringer. Took the front passenger seat out, easy, one front track bolt broke, I'll just drill it out and nut & bolt it.

Taking the seat apart (upper and lower) isn't hard with a little try. Broke a clip off the lumbar button cover, everything else A-OK.

Took the old cover off the seat bottom. The way the skin clips into the metal frame is HARD. Hard to remove and so far I haven't been able to re-clip it. I suspect it'll take some trial and error. And swearing. I'm going to try having someone sit on it while I clip it, might give me more to work with. The little bits, headrests, armrests, are deceptively simply and quite difficult to get off and on.

So right now it's a one-seater Once I get the pass seat done I'll pull the drivers seat and carpet, clean the carpet at a DIY car wash. And get the wiring in, main power/rcas/speaker wires/trigger power wire. Updates to follow. Pics when finished.

Pete

[tjc78]

Do yourself a favor and run the RCAs down the middle of the car and the power on the passenger side. I used the drivers side channel (with decent Twisted pair RCAs) and still have a little bit of noise. I'm either moving them or cheating with a ground loop isolator.

There is a grommet on the passenger side near the floor that is perfect for your power wire, just drill a small hole in it and snake it through with a wire hanger.

[sly]

Do yourself a favor and run the RCAs down the middle of the car and the power on the passenger side. I used the drivers side channel (with decent Twisted pair RCAs) and still have a little bit of noise. I'm either moving them or cheating with a ground loop isolator.

I kinda did this just because it was easy. Since the amp is under the passenger seat (note, manual seat - no clearance issues like power seats), RCAs straight down and along the hump was an easy short shot.

[Piece-it pete]

Many thanks for the advice! Will do.

My better half managed to get the old armrest cover off and the new one on, and the headrest. I, did nothing

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Got the seat back done, pretty easy. If no rain tonite I'll try the seat bottom. If that actually goes on, pulling the drivers seat and carpet! Getting happy.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Btw, I plan on changing out the head unit eventually but in the meantime, can I just splice female RCA jacks onto the factory speaker wires and run the amp off it, with the input level low?

Pete

[sly]

technically yes, but no. you'll overcome the input level by tick 3 or 4 on your volume dial. Not a good idea.

[Piece-it pete]

(%@#$&!

I have to go to the rat shack and get those thingies? Or I COULD run the wiring and leave it dead for now. Waiting FTL.

Pete

[tjc78]

Yeah, they sell line level converters. Run all the wiring up behind the head unit and tap into the speaker level outputs behind the dash. To swap the head unit later will be a quick job.

Makes sense to run all the wiring now if you can, no sense pulling all that trim twice.

[Piece-it pete]

Rather poke trim than pull it

Bought 2 converters, cheap internet wins.

Pete