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'80 Mark VI 351W build

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    '80 Mark VI 351W build

    Well I have started collecting parts for my 351 W. So far I have a C9 4 bbl intake, along with a '69 motorcraft 4 bbl carb. Still need to find a carb spacer, but no big deal, I'll hit up the speed shop for that.
    I'm looking for C9 heads, No luck yet. I did however find a set off '66 289 hi-po heads cheap, but they need a rebuild. Also I am not to sure how well they would work out on a windsor. So I will likely pass on them.
    Also on the to get list is a set of 351 mustang shorty headers. I already have a set of H.O headers off a 88 mark VII but I heard they might not work on a windsor.
    As far as a cam I am undecided. I still have to find out what will work best with this combo.
    As far as the tranny go's I would like to put a shift kit in, and maybie a better stall converter.

    Now I was looking at a HEI conversion distributor, but wan't some opinions on that. Would I really gain anything worth while converting to that. They are pretty cheap on ebay, but dont want to waste money on something thats not going to make a differnce.

    Just an intake pic for now.


    1980 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Signature Series
    351 4 bbl, AOD, 3.08 open
    duel exhaust with cherry bombs

    #2
    Any particular reason for running factory type intake and carb? That cast iron intake weighs a ton and is a low-rise design that doesn't flow well. The best money you can spend would be on a Weiand Stealth intake and a Holley Street Avenger 670cfm carb. Don't bother with old 289 hi-po heads...they don't flow as well as newer heads. The best flowing small block Ford heads are the Cobra/'96 Explorer GT40's and the later Explorer GT40P heads.

    What is your ultimate goal out of the build? Are you just trying to put together a stockish 351 or a mild performance 351?

    -Don
    '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_LSS View Post
      Well I have started collecting parts for my 351 W. So far I have a C9 4 bbl intake, along with a '69 motorcraft 4 bbl carb. Still need to find a carb spacer, but no big deal, I'll hit up the speed shop for that.
      I'm looking for C9 heads, No luck yet. I did however find a set off '66 289 hi-po heads cheap, but they need a rebuild. Also I am not to sure how well they would work out on a windsor. So I will likely pass on them.
      If they are true HiPo heads, they are better than C9 Windsor heads. The exhaust ports suck on C9 heads. They will have a cast in valve spring cup and they will have screwed in rocker studs with pushrod guide plates instead of press in studs.
      C9 heads or D0 heads (same thing) are about $100 apiece and readily available. As was mentioned, you can find GT40 heads for the same price and they are superior.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Mercracer View Post
        If they are true HiPo heads, they are better than C9 Windsor heads. The exhaust ports suck on C9 heads. They will have a cast in valve spring cup and they will have screwed in rocker studs with pushrod guide plates instead of press in studs.
        C9 heads or D0 heads (same thing) are about $100 apiece and readily available. As was mentioned, you can find GT40 heads for the same price and they are superior.
        I might have to take a second look. If they are actualy real 289 HiPo heads ill probly pick them up. The price is right.

        Also we have a 98 Exploder at work. (I work at a wrecking yard) If thats my better rout maybie ill just buy those heads.. Not sure if they are gt40p or just gt40 on a 98. Also not sure how true this is, But someone told me in order to put 289/302 heads on a windsor I would have to get the holes for the head bolts drilled out bigger for the bigger head bolts on a windsor. Can someone clearify if this is true?

        1980 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Signature Series
        351 4 bbl, AOD, 3.08 open
        duel exhaust with cherry bombs

        Comment


          #5
          C9 head have better intake flow than 289 HI-PO heads and the exhaust on the HI-PO heads doesn't come out ahead until after .450" lift at which point the difference is only a few cfm by the time you get to .600" lift. With either of those heads, using a cam with more than .450" lift and 210* duration @ .050" is a total waste of time, money and bottom end torque... Regardless, we can all agree that the GT40P heads are far superior to both.

          Good luck,
          Don
          '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by sick88tbird View Post
            Any particular reason for running factory type intake and carb? That cast iron intake weighs a ton and is a low-rise design that doesn't flow well. The best money you can spend would be on a Weiand Stealth intake and a Holley Street Avenger 670cfm carb. Don't bother with old 289 hi-po heads...they don't flow as well as newer heads. The best flowing small block Ford heads are the Cobra/'96 Explorer GT40's and the later Explorer GT40P heads.

            What is your ultimate goal out of the build? Are you just trying to put together a stockish 351 or a mild performance 351?

            -Don
            I would like at least 250-275 hp. I'm building on a buget, So I can't really go all out but take what I can get for the right price.
            Last edited by Grand_Marquis_LSS; 06-26-2011, 12:06 AM.

            1980 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Signature Series
            351 4 bbl, AOD, 3.08 open
            duel exhaust with cherry bombs

            Comment


              #7
              i know of a set of modified 289 heads that out flow gt40p heads......
              89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

              Comment


                #8
                I think it's fairly common knowledge that a well worked over set of factory heads can easily out flow a set of stock untouched heads.

                I'm making about that much power with a set of early GT40 iron heads that I went though. I spent most of my time in bowl work and making the exhaust ports flow. I have a stupid mild cam in it( I was trying to stay SD and it worked, just wasn't thrilled with it) and a crazy restrictive intake set-up. With a good carb and intake, you can easily make that with a set of stock GT40P heads, like the ones on that '98 Explorer. I'd still recommed a fairly mild cam...they typically run a little harder on top with carbs then with EFI...

                You could always do the heads and cam now and when you can afford it upgrade to a nice high rise dual plane intake and decent carb...that way you really only have to tear into the motor once.

                Good luck,
                Don
                '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_LSS View Post
                  Not sure if they are gt40p or just gt40 on a 98. Also not sure how true this is, But someone told me in order to put 289/302 heads on a windsor I would have to get the holes for the head bolts drilled out bigger for the bigger head bolts on a windsor. Can someone clearify if this is true?
                  The only heads you do not have to drill out are GT40. All other 289 and 302 heads including GT40P heads have to be drilled out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Mercracer View Post
                    The only heads you do not have to drill out are GT40. All other 289 and 302 heads including GT40P heads have to be drilled out.
                    Ok, so basicaly something a machine shop would have to do.

                    1980 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Signature Series
                    351 4 bbl, AOD, 3.08 open
                    duel exhaust with cherry bombs

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yes, machine shops don't charge much for it...or you can find a buddy with a sturdy drill press and bring him a 6-pack of his favorite brew.

                      Good luck,
                      Don
                      '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        yes
                        since this is your daily driver and you work at a wrecking yard, can you get your hands on a f4 351 shortblock?
                        then you can build that up while you keep driving

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Another thing to be aware of with old heads is they don't have hardened valve seats for use with unleaded fuel. Might want to go with a more modern head just for that reason. Also, those stock intakes are really not that wonderful. Unless you're going for some sort of factory stock motor thing, I'd skip straight to a decent aftermarket unit.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Nice choice. When I did my motor I put 69 351 heads on without and modification and It brought the compression ratio up to 10.5:1. If you want the best bang for your buck that DUAL plain intake will work just fine.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mercracer View Post
                              The only heads you do not have to drill out are GT40. All other 289 and 302 heads including GT40P heads have to be drilled out.
                              Not entirely true. There have been accounts where people have had to have the holes drilled out on a set of GT40s. Including Lincolnmania.

                              Comment

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