remove upper intake
Ok so I'm thinking about removing my upper intake tonight to look for signs of my mysterious vacuum leak and I was wondering just how difficult a task this is. I'm thinking unhook throttle linkage remove tps and egr valve unbolt intake and remove or am I missing something?
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Don't even need to remove the EGR valve.
Unplug the IAC, TPS, and if any of the tab/tad solenoids are on your upper intake, unplug those.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock -
hardest part is making sure not to break any of the plastic vacuum lines. If you do, its not the end of the world.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereoComment
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I have a feeling those may be lines that are my current problem as I've already replaced the soup can, check valve and plugged the TBL and still having ATC issues.Comment
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ATC sucks, convert it to manual. Your gas mileage indicates that you don't have an issue. In fact if you do, I'd leave it alone. You may have a vacuum leak between the can and the HVAC controls. That won't affect the drivability of the car.Comment
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[QUOTE=86VickyLX;633852]ATC sucks, convert it to manual. Your gas mileage indicates that you don't have an issue. In fact if you do, I'd leave it alone. You may have a vacuum leak between the can and the HVAC controls. That won't affect the drivability of
Wht all is needed to convert to manual? Just a different control head or do I need a different heater core and everythingComment
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Heater core is the same. As far as converting it, I don't know what can be used from your existing set up, and what would need to be swapped.Originally posted by mercurygm88 View PostComment
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I'm no expert but it would seem like converting to manual would be more involved than finding/fixing the problem.Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post2020 Volvo XC90 T6 Momentum (Ice White / Blonde)
2022 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Etorque, Built to Serve Edition, (Granite Crystal / Black)
Past Panthers
1989 Grand Marquis LS (Cabernet/Grey), 1989 Lincoln Town Car SS (White/Blue), 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate (White/Black)
Originally posted by Lincolnmania
if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you troubleComment
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you'd need to modify/swap the blend door and several other things IIRC.
You're switching from vacuum-actuated to cable-actuated.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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Yeah I'm still hoping I can fix it just seems odd.ac blows cold at idle and if u rev engine but switches to warm defrost as soon as u accelerate also if everything is off u get warm air moving through the defrost and sometimes floor vents.Originally posted by johnunit View PostComment
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It takes 5 minutes to pull the upper intake. Leave the Spacer and TB on it, take the 2 nuts on the throttle linkage off it, pop off the throttle cable and tv cable, any electrical connections and vacuum lines, take off the intake plaque, then your only 6 bolts away.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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that's a vacuum leak... somewhere lol. I have that issue too.Originally posted by mercurygm88 View Post
The default setting (with no vacuum) is warm and defrost, so when you're in a continuous low-vacuum situation the vacuum that is holding that the various doors and such to the "ac panel" position for instance dissipates and it goes back to warm and defrost. Sometimes it's a vacuum leak in the engine bay, but more likely one of the various lines in the cabin is leaking.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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it is, or at least it is if you want to do it the right way. Getting at the top of the plenum box to remove the vacuum servo that never seems to fail and fitting a cable bracket in it's place without dropping the plenum would be a massive pain in the ass just because you can't really get to the screws or the linkage. There are also vacuum valves wired off the vac servo to control the recirc door that you'd have to do something about, and the auto fan switch is back there too. Mercifully none of that crap seems to fail very often.Originally posted by tjc78 View Post
Have you tried pulling vacuum on the line that goes into the car? You'd need a hand vacuum pump. There could be a leak in one of the lines that feeds from the firewall to the head unit in the dash, or somewhere else in the dash. If thats the case, pulling the upper won't help much. Wouldn't be surprised if you have other vacuum lines that could stand changing, so it may not be a bad idea to do it anyway but with the stuff you've replaced on the climate control system, I'm thinking the leak is inside the dash somewhere. Sorry I didn't get to helping you check it out, things were just too busy last weekend.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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ok car goes to mechanic tomorrow this guy is an ex ford service manager from a local dealer who went out of business about 8 years ago he was service manager from 1980 till they closed he says he knows the ATC system very well so hopefully he will find the cause of my frustration.Comment
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