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quickie report on explorer swap

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    quickie report on explorer swap

    I've now put 150 miles on my new engine; thought I'd give some report.

    I built it using a stock 1990 mustang block and reused the pistons and crank. I don't think it's very different from the stock lopo block; just forged connecting rods and flatter piston tops.
    I just cleaned it up; steamed it, rehoned the cylinder walls, replaced bearings.
    Then I was going to use the stock E7TE mustang heads, but found some GT40 heads off a '96 explorer at the junkyard for $100.
    I cleaned those up too; new valve guides and valve seats. Err, the seats were not originally in the plans, but I'd drilled the guides crooked so.... hahaha.

    The camshaft is a clean one from an explorer also. Why? Cause while I'm having fun with it, this really is still a 4000# daily driver, and I'm going to spend most of my time accelerating at not more than 3 grand and cruising at 1500rpm.
    While I'd found that 96 explorer at the junkyard, pulling the block out in that mud would have been a pita and so I just asked for one from the forum; someone else who used an explorer block and put a performance cam in and still had the explorer shaft. Figure I need the low-end pull more than high-end power.

    The computer is from a 1990 lincoln that had the HO.

    Put on 2" dual exhaust with stock mustang headers.

    The intake is actually stock mustang HO as well. For the same reason as the explorer camshaft: it's actually a tad better for low end torque and not much worse for those few moments of high-rpm power. It's also cheaper and easier to come by

    To do the dual exhaust, I said to hech with the air pump; so that is off. I've got a somewhat awkward pulley arrangement with a belt that barely fits on, and maybe should find a kit to let me put an idler where the air pump was, but it seems to work.


    I guess for all intents and purposes this IS an explorer swap, as the heads and camshaft are out of an explorer, and other than the hypereutectic pistons on the explorer, there's no other difference.
    I'll say that it does seem to run smoothly, barring some adventures with a possibly stuck-open thermostat and some toying with the tv cable that I need to do, and a rattling exhaust component;
    and whatever problems I know one or two people had with an explorer swap and having some strange fuel trim issues? Have not manifested. I seem to be doing alright with the stock MAP system; though I may go mass air in the future anyway, when I have $300 to burn and feel like toying with it. For now I'm plain sick of working on this car, and just want to enjoy it for a few months before I pick another project-- probably repainting
    I do also have an electric fan, which I may install in week or two if I feel like it.
    One last thing; my first tank of gas is also run out, which translates to 10mpg fuel economy. Probably, normal for city driving, running cold all the time, and having fun with the gas pedal and taking off from stop lights? Or can it point to engine tuning issues? When, or if, I should go back to driving like a grandpa, then maybe my fuel economy will return to 18-21mpg mixed. Can a lead foot and enthusiasm over a new and non-lopo engine fully and readily explain 10mpg?

    #2
    identical rotating assembly, rods and all. the Mustang pistons are forged with valve reliefs vs the lopo dished cast pistons. Should be good for a slight compression bump but mostly the forged pistons are just tougher. Hyper pistons are somewhere between cast and forged as far as durability goes, same valve reliefs though.

    I have a halfass suspicion that the lean running problems with Explorer heads are related to the intake more than anything. other people with ported heads and ported stock intakes have no problems where others with the GT40 intake have lean running issues. The gt40 intake does move more air, so I guess that makes sense.

    and yeah, romping on it in city driving will kill your fuel economy.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      Leave it alone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
        Leave it alone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        What I mean is, if that engine is running great with that setup, leave it alone. Lead foot will cause low gas mileage lol. Try out a tank of gas that you just ease into it mang. I envy you, that you can run your car on Speed Density. However, even with what I said, I'd like to see if it would still play nice with the explorer intakes.

        Comment


          #5
          did you end up having to do a MAF swap?
          What exactly where the lean-running symptoms?
          That said, I can't see that MAF isn't superior all the way around. The ONLY advantage to speed density that I can see is that, running off a map sensor, if there's a vacuum leak it reads lower vacuum and knows it's getting more air? Unless MAF systems also use a map sensor to double check things anyway.

          Hah, like I said, I'm sick of working on this car. At least a month or two will have to pass before you can talk me into needlessly swapping the upper and lower intakes again
          Fixed my exhaust rattle: the tailpipes that go over the rear axle were both a bit tricky, and in avoiding the fuel tank I was rubbing up against the trailing arm I think it's called?. It all sits a little low; I think I really would have been better off taking it to a custom shop and having it welded up. In the future I'm going to get historic tags, and just have a shop redo it all, w/o cats just to make it cheaper.

          Glad to hear 10mpg can be fully explained by romping on it. Was worried something more was going on. I'll have to do a tank of gas being more gentle and see how far it goes.
          Speaking of which, something is keeping my gas gauge stopped @3/4 full.... it will stay 3/4 full forever and then drop to 1/4 full (which =3gallons left). I have to pull the instrument cluster and see what could be jamming the needle... *sigh*

          Comment


            #6
            What's the hgwy mileage, mang?
            No Panthers yet (coming soon, I'm sure). A Mark VII owner, in some uncertain future a MkVII+Box Panther owner.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
              did you end up having to do a MAF swap?
              What exactly where the lean-running symptoms?
              That said, I can't see that MAF isn't superior all the way around. The ONLY advantage to speed density that I can see is that, running off a map sensor, if there's a vacuum leak it reads lower vacuum and knows it's getting more air? Unless MAF systems also use a map sensor to double check things anyway.

              Speaking of which, something is keeping my gas gauge stopped @3/4 full.... it will stay 3/4 full forever and then drop to 1/4 full (which =3gallons left). I have to pull the instrument cluster and see what could be jamming the needle... *sigh*
              Signs of running lean, hesitation, popping through the intake, surging, codes 41 and 91 in the KOER test.
              MAF systems use a MAF sensor which measures the amount of air coming into the engine. There are identical sensors that give different readings, so it's very important to match up the computer to the MAF (unless you're going to tune it). The Map sensor is utilized, but not as a MAP sensor. It's used as a Baro Sensor (it measures barometric pressure). The way that is achieved is removing the vacuum line from the MAP sensor and lo-and-behold, you have a Baro sensor.

              With the fuel gauge, does it go all the way up if you short the yellow wire on your fuel pump to ground? If yes, then your problem is in the tank. If not, then your issue is with either wiring or a faulty cluster/gauge.

              Comment


                #8
                thanks! I'll try the pump wire test.

                Dunno the highway mileage yet. Just been through 150 miles and one tank of 80% city and a number of hard accelerations.
                I want to take a road trip to pittsburgh soon though, and that will tell me 100% highway mileage!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Well, at least you're having fun with your new/old engine. Or at least it sounds like fun.


                  Packman

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