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power steering pump -- '91 GM

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    #16
    Originally posted by 88grandmarq
    a couple of pointers... use only ATF in a Ford PS system. Type F is the best, but dextron will work. DO NOT use regular, clear type PS fuild.
    Well sh!t. I've been very careful to use PS fluid. I've used a hell of a lot of it too, 'cuz I've replaced the pitman shaft seal 3x and it still leaks. Maybe with the right fluid it won't.

    Cars are a PITA.
    FOR SALE: 89 Grand Marquis GS HO. Quarter mile = 15.8 @ 87mph -- pics http://public.fotki.com/vfr700f2/car...rcycl/mercury/

    Junkyard HO, MSD wires, stock Mustang headers, off-road H, Hemi Super Turbos. 3.55 trac loc, HO governor and servo in stock rebuilt AOD. 3-row rad, air pump delete, cop rear bar, wagon rear springs, 93 CV rear discs, 98-02 Grand Marquis wheels, Class 3 hitch, aluminum space-saver spare.

    Coming soon: 98-02 front brakes, cop springs, Monroe cop shocks, 96 Cobra wheels w/255/50/17. Better yet, need a nice wagon to put all that stuff in.

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      #17
      i've always used ps fluid.......never a problem.......should i change?

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #18
        I just flushed my PS yesterday, and I also upgraded it with the police tranny cooler I had laying around - it's finally hooked up, downstream of the gearbox. Filled up with Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF, went with the Dextron type as I already use it in my tranny and I don't like having 5 quarts of different chemicals jumping around in my trunk. There was no moaning before, there si none now either, but I did notice that the steering hose between the gearbox and the cooler doesn't get as hot as the original return line - is that something that can be attributed to the ATF?

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          #19
          :bump:

          This is regarding the PS leak on the '88. Been getting pretty bad lately. There's such a big friggin' mess down there that I can't tell where it's comin' from.

          The pump has been wining pretty bad and the fluid is where it should be. I'm tempted to just pull the pump, lines, and gearbox to either: clean them up and try to find the leak or just replace the whole works. CarQuest has the pump w/ reservoir for $49 and the gearbox for $150. I'm getting tired of seeing that big damn mess under the hood and on my garage floor.

          How does the gear box detach from the steering shaft? Any tips on removal? I haven't gotten down there to look at it today, short on time.

          If the seal on the gear box is leaking, can the seal be replaced or would it be cheaper/easier to just replace the whole thing? All info is appreciated.

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            #20


            This stuff comes highly reccomended from Scott. It worked on my 90, as I had a small power steering leak and it was whining like crazy.
            Save a seal, club a liberal.

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              #21
              Before you do anything, liberally apply degreaser and pressure wash the engine bay to get rid of the goop, then have a look underneath to determine where its coming from after driving home in your nicely cleaned car.

              I've heard that its hard to replace that seal and get it to actually seal. Not sure on yours, but I'm fairly sure you just have a single clamp bolt below the rag joint that comes out, then the steering box slides off the shaft. 3 bolts hold it to the frame. The hardest part is getting the pressure line to break loose really. If the clamp bolt on the box doesn't let go, half the steering shaft will slide apart, so its not that big of a deal. It should seperate between the rag joint and that other joint up next to the firewall.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #22
                The seals are a pita to replace. I did the input seal on mine with the box in the car. Now the output seal is leaking. I'd upgrade the box to a newer if that's what's leaking...
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                  #23
                  I yanked out the ps pump tonight. What a fuckin' mess down there. From what I can tell, the leak is from the pump or one of the rubber lines. The gear box didn't appear to have anything for fresh oil on it to indicate leaking. I'm ordering my new pump Monday. It was a bit of a bitch to get the bracket out. Since everything was out, I went ahead and rethreaded my oil-sending unit. It wasn't as tight as it was supposed to be.

                  The rubber line that comes out of the back of the ps pump wraps down and underneath the pump and connects to the metal line. I can't seem to seperate the rubber hose from the metal line. I even pulled the clamp off. Do I have to replace the metal portion of the line as well as the rubber peice, or should that rubber line come off?
                  Last edited by monterey1962; 02-05-2006, 01:09 AM.

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                    #24
                    yes, the metal pipe and rubber hose seperate. use a razor blade and cut the hose off the metal line. use transmission fluid rated 3/8" rubber hose as a replacement. re-use the metal line. some new clamps are a good idea too.
                    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                    89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                    88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                    I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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                      #25
                      Thanks for the info.

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                        #26
                        If its the low pressure line, the one with a hose clamp, just slice and dice it. The other line will not seperate at the crimp. At least it shouldnt.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #27
                          just replace both lines, since you have the pump already off.

                          the High pressure line is like $20 at Napa.
                          2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                          89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                          88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                          I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Yeah, good point. Might as well replace it while its apart.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Got the new pump today. Didn't have a pulley puller, so I ran down to my mechanic. He was nice enough to pull and install the pulley for no charge (I do a lot of business with them). Also picked up a new low pressure hose, ps fluid, Lucas ps fluid treatment, and clamps. I'm taking tomorrow off to install everything. Seems to be the only nice weather day for a while and I need a break from work.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                New pump is in and running quiet. I still think the gearbox may have a leak, but it doesn't seem to be bad. I've got an antifreeze leak and an oil leak, but I can't pin point 'em. I suppose leaks should be expected at 170K miles.

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