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    body mount bushing clarifications

    I read a bit back about others' efforts changing out their body mount bushings.
    I go to check out my own... and what do you know, at least 4 of them are... not really clamped? There's a good 1/4"+ clearance between the bolt head/washer, and the shriveled rubber mount! Those were just the 4 that I didn't have to look for; never having done body mount bushings before, I wasn't sure where they would all be. I found a drawing, now.

    Guess I know what my next project is!
    Front end rebuild went great by the way All new tie rods, ball joints, and bushings; very solid, and it aligns to spec now!

    SO.
    What's involved?

    I need 8x 94102 from energy suspension; each is a kit of 2 bushings?
    What's the spacer that I read about? Part #/ where to buy? According to one thread, scott knows what I need, but I'm not sure where he wrote it!
    Do I need to also buy different bolts? (somewhere I read about needing longer bolts than what came with the kit... unless I can just reuse the originals that I'll pull out).

    And that's it? 16 maybe, of these spacers, 8 ES bushing kits, and... that's all?
    I like to be prepared before I schedule a work session!

    Finally, what's involved and how long will it take?
    I've got 16 bolts that go into captured nuts, right? Sandwiching rubber in between. Is it all done from underneath? I will have a lift when I do this. Lift the car by the frame, zip out all the bolts with an impact, take jackstands, probably 4 of them, and lift up by the pinchweld, squeeze in the new bushings, lower it, retighten?
    Do I need to remove seats/carpeting/more to get to the other side; if the other half of the mount sandwich is maybe inside the car?
    I already found this link: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post215706

    Can it be done in an 8hr day with proper equipment?


    thanks!
    -Bernard

    #2
    The kits don't come with bolts, and the stock ones end up being short since the bushings are a little thicker than stock. Also, 20+ years old and in a location that does nothing to promote their longevity.

    You jack the body up off the frame after unbolting everything. Doesn't take much, about 2" will get you in there. Basically you use bottle jacks positioned along the pinch weld under the doors and up she goes.

    The spacers were custom made. Scott had them made at a machine shop. Not sure if he's got more on hand, but he can get some if need be. PM him for details. Basically the "step" in the ES bushings is intended for a smaller frame hole than what our cars have, and the spacers make up the difference. They're basically just washers, modified to have a specific inner and outer diameter.

    In theory, you have it. In reality, one or more of those bolts may break and then you have to punch a hole in the body from the back side to extract the captive nut and broken bolt, and replace it with a regular nut. I had one of the nut captivators (that sounds dirty) break, so there is a hole in my trunk where I had to get in there and wedge a screwdriver against it so the bolt could be removed.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #3
      ah, gotcha.
      Sounds easy-peasy if nothing goes wrong!
      So I won't need to get inside the car at all, unless a bolt snaps?
      Like a 2hour job with a lift?

      Now, if something goes wrong, is that captive nut welded to the body? How hard is it to get the nut out to replace with a non-captive nut from the hardware store? Impact chisel, cutoff wheel, that sort of measure?

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        #4
        I riecently talked to my local Ford dealer and found new bushings are avalable but a bit uneconomical. They would run close to 1000.00 from Ford.
        Also noticed there are 2 different thicknesses used from the factory and possibly different hardnesses as there are brown code green code plane code.

        I have no idea a factory ones would compress. It does look however the two sets ES offers the thick ones might be a bit too tall for the thicker factory ones and the ES thinner bushings a bit to thin for the thinner factory bushings.

        The thicker factory bushings might be close to 1 1/6" the thinner ones 7/8". I think only 4 of the thinner bushings are used (have to take count again).
        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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          #5
          8 sets of 9.4102

          14 custom spacer washers to take up the gap between the body and bushing step

          Core supports to not take a spacer washer.

          Core support does not have captive nuts. Just PIA nut and bolt.

          You will need longer bolts. Mentioned here: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post215706

          Basically pick up M10x80MM bots with a 1.5mm thread pitch.

          If the captive nuts spin or when the bolts break you will need to remove whatever is in the way from you getting to that nut. I had to cut three holes in the body to get to captive nuts. Just replace with nut and bolt.

          8hrs? Don't know.

          Before you even begin start by unbolting the shifter tube bolt under the brake booster as well as removing your plastic fender extensions between the body and bumpers.

          After the job you may have fuel or brake line leaks...your fan may be hitting the fan shroud and your bumpers may be way out of alignment.
          ~David~

          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

          Originally posted by ootdega
          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

          Originally posted by gadget73
          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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            #6
            Bernard, did you end up doing this? How difficult was it/how long did it take you?
            -Phil

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            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

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