Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Project Rotary HVAC Control

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Project Rotary HVAC Control

    Time for some changes to the hvac control on the box. I've got a vacuum slider control that is becoming worn out, and it has gotten the ball rolling finally to get going with this conversion. For whatever reason, I always through the car should have rotary controls anyway, so its an painless choice. Now, wether it will actually happen remains to be seen. Some ghetto-fab aka redneck engineering is going to need to happen, but overall, it should be relatively easy.

    The donor: HVAC control from a 92-95.5 F150/250/350/Bronco. Or the faceplate right to 1996. (from here on in, when I say f150, I mean the entire line)



    Why?: Look at the cable: Single push-pull cable.
    This was used until about mid 1995, when they redesigned and went to the pull-pull (dual cable) control. Also note: tsb 961307 was released mid 95 to address difficult to move blend door control, it converted the truck to the pull-pull cable. So you will need to look behind the glove box door of the truck to see what it has.



    Another bonus to the truck faceplate: Its glorious green!
    If you are one of those odd folks that get off on blue (blue lightinng makes everything fuzzy to me, which is why I hate it) get the faceplate and knobs from a 94/5 mustang. See this photo? Thats what blue lighting ends up looking like to me.


    While going through my research on this, I found out that the f150 uses the same general vacuum control arangement. So that means the function control switch will give you the correct vacuum signals to operate the doors.


    Now, one thing I came across as a bit of a surprise since I was long ago told by Matt (p71interceptor-RIP) that all the cv/gms used the same vacuum control, is that ford changed the function selector switch for the 1998 model year. (uh oh. Those of you who pm'd filled in that gap). 98+ uses a YH1489 selector switch and pre 1998 uses a YH565 selector switch.
    YH1489 is only used on 1998-2011 cvgms.
    YH565 is used on the donor vehicles as well as 95-97 cvgms.

    Peectures of the offending vacuum control switch;
    YH565 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ YH1489


    See the difference? Yeah, those little plastic nubs by the shaft.
    Walla! My conversion has started! My YH1489 is now a YH565!


    What do those nubs mean? Aside from a part number change, they mean absolutely nothing. Later face plates have notches in the back to accomodate those nubs. Early face plates have no notches. The pencil marks on the left hole show where the 98+ cvgm has notches in the faceplate to accomodate the nubs. Looks like one more place to collect dust to me. Might even have different slots for different controls (ie: the mustang face plate) since it uses a different vacuum logic. No matter to us, regardless of what faceplate you use, if you have the 98+ control, off with their nubs! And it will slip on perfectly.


    Sp back to vacuum for a moment, and an interesting thing will emerge, despite hearing differently, the vacuum line colors match up to the box colors! No mix and matching required. Red to red, white to white, etc. Once I pull it apart, I might get luck again that the exact same quick connect layout is used so it'll really be a plug and play swap. That as yet, remains to be seen though. Things have been too busy around here for me to start ripping the dash apart, so that will need to wait, unless someone has a photo of the quick connector on the vacuum harness of the box... <hint hint> =-)



    Another item that needs to be done is wiring. Well, Ford has been nice enough to use the same wiring color codes on the cvgm right through to the end. So all that needs to be done is the pins popped from the original connector to the new connector if that happens to be your donor plug.
    Same deal for the blower, pretty straight forward, just swap the wires to the new plug. Gotta like some of the unchanges. (but I really do have to wonder why they bothered to change the vacuum selector switch... Now they got an extra part to carry. Manfuacturer logic is probably a lot like woman logic...
    Blower switch part number: YH588. Lots of apps, so lots of donors (different wiring colors used in the non-panthers).
    Used for 95-11 cvgm, 95-03 exploder, 94-04 mustang, 95-00 ranger, and 94-98 taurus, sable, windstar.

    So there you have it, the basis of a rotary hvac control swap for the box. The only pita is going to be adapting the cable to the box. And if luck stays with us, that flat spring clip that holds the original cable to the blend door arm will be put to use. Potential problems I forsee: The rotary knob will not go full travel (but theres a possible way around that using the white plastic thingamabob that is used on the f150. Just more ghetto-fab) and limit marks will be made to inform the ham fisted that might ride/drive your car. And there is a possibility Hot side will be cold and cold hot. No matter, as long as it moves the door.

    Alex.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by GM_Guy; 07-28-2012, 07:48 PM.

    #2
    Neat conversion! Allows a lot more options for customizing since there's plenty of rotary knobs available aftermarket. I'd like to see it installed to see how the big black plastic knobs blend with the box interior.


    sigpic
    - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

    Comment


      #3
      I was contemplating that, but they won't stick out any further than the slider knobs. If they are too clunky looking, I'll get some 95+ CVGM knobs that are flatter. I should have grabbed a set while I was in the yard. I do like the truck knobs though as they are easier to grab. Easy enough to change regardless. Thinking about it, I may run a flat style knob on the temp control just to prevent people from easily fiddling with it.

      If you use the rear defroster, you'll need to come up with something to mount a switch. I never use it since I don't trust putting heat to a curved window when the temps are below freezing (and I don't want to mess up my tint either).

      Quicky photochop;
      Attached Files

      Comment


        #4
        Good luck with the project.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          Its an option as parts become obsolete anyway. I kind of like the slider controls but I'm not so in love with them that I would refuse to change them out should mine die and I couldn't get a good one at a realistic price.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            I would love to have the norm/max switch in the GM to control the vent myself. Definitely going to be paying attention to this one.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              im liking this idea......if all goes as planned....and its as easy as it seems at this point....maybe making this "sticky" should be considered?

              Comment


                #8
                I'm hoping it is as easy as it sounds. =-) With my luck, things are going way too easy so far (color codes, interchangability of faceplates and controllers, minor modification seemingly needed)... We'll see. If its a failure, I'll have a faceplate mounted in place of the guages for the vacuum control. =-\

                Making it a sticky is the idea behind it. The intentions are to take sufficient pictures. This time.

                Alex.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                  I'm hoping it is as easy as it sounds. =-) With my luck, things are going way too easy so far (color codes, interchangability of faceplates and controllers, minor modification seemingly needed)... We'll see. If its a failure, I'll have a faceplate mounted in place of the guages for the vacuum control. =-\

                  Making it a sticky is the idea behind it. The intentions are to take sufficient pictures. This time.

                  Alex.
                  AWESOME.....from what ive read so far,it doesnt sound like it should be too hard to make this work well,(and if it "goes as planned" i may "rob" this idea for my coupe,with your permission of course......)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post

                    If you use the rear defroster, you'll need to come up with something to mount a switch. I never use it since I don't trust putting heat to a curved window when the temps are below freezing (and I don't want to mess up my tint either).
                    Ah, didn't even think about that. And I have no idea as to what defroster switches even look like in a later Ford or what could be chosen to blend in with the dash. And I didn't realize that the defroster messed up tint...?


                    sigpic
                    - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

                    Comment


                      #11
                      and if it "goes as planned" i may "rob" this idea for my coupe,with your permission of course......)
                      Nope. Sorry. No can do. =-) =-)

                      I'm sure I'm not the first one to do a rotary conversion. We just don't get to see it. Did a little exploration yesterday under the dash. 1989 uses a different vacuum connector block. 1990 apparently uses the same block as the newer cars.
                      Fortuneatly, when I pulled my vacuum switch I ended up with most of the vacuum lines intact right to the cans (by luck, not design) except for white and black which I will have to splice. I'm just going to run the newer block as is and not concern myself with retaining the old block.
                      Blend door arm is going to be tricky. I didn't measure, but it looks like I need more movement than the rotary control allows if I mount to the same location. Thinking of fabbing up a connector block I can install with set screws to get the cable mount in just the right location. I have one inch of cable movement, so I'll need to mount the cable closer to the pivot point. Simple clamping block oughta achieve a secure mount to do that. It'll be a bear though, not much space to work in. Thinking of pulling the plenum to do it since I want to check the doors and seals inside the plenum anyway (suspect them as well for some of my heater woes).

                      Nothing lots of time and an indoor space to work on couldn't speed up...

                      Ah, didn't even think about that. And I have no idea as to what defroster switches even look like in a later Ford or what could be chosen to blend in with the dash. And I didn't realize that the defroster messed up tint...?
                      No idea either, never looked. But they are not on the hvac control panel--that would have made it tooo easy. There are lots of fords out there, but it'll probably mean harvesting a bunch of control wiring as well. The box has the relay & timer built into the switch (so high current wiring right to the defrost switch), you can't just stick a regular switch in there. Newer ford may have a timer module that you can mount remotly, so that would work. No idea. Don't care.
                      Its the localized heat from the grid that messes up the tint, over time it gets brittle and flakes off. Of course, depends on tint type and how much you use it. Not all of them get messed up from it, but then, most people don't keep a car long enough to find out what can go wrong anyway.

                      Alex.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        90s cars have the rear defrost button in the middle of the woodgrain piece that goes between the area above your legs and the dashboard itself. The power antenna switch lives in there too.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Well, I had the opportunity to dive into things today to see what I'm up against....

                          and project




                          control...











































                          is





                          =-)







                          Went better than expected.





                          I'll get a little more detailed at a later date. But everything works. No more vacuum leak. Almost fit like a glove, the items that needed attention came as no surprise, and ghetto-fab was kept to a minimum.

                          Alex.
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                            #14
                            epic!

                            can't wait for the write up.

                            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                            Originally posted by dmccaig
                            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Very nice...just that alone does wonders to make an interior look more modern...Joe Schmoe will never notice but us panther nuts will go...well....nuts over it.

                              Nice work!
                              -Don
                              '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X