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    #16
    I personally recommend either Ultra blue, ultra black or ultra gray permatex for the end piece gaskets.

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      #17
      Depends which set you bought. If you got the good set with the molded rubber end wall pieces, a very small daub of sealer at the corners is all you want or need. If you got crap gaskets with the cork end walls, throw those away and use RTV across the ends. I do the head to intake gaskets dry usually if they are Felpro, but if they are cheap I'll use a very very light application of sealer around the water passages only. I also use pieces of threaded rod as guide pins to hold the gaskets in place while I put the intake straight down over them. Its a lot easier than trying to squiggle the intake around if its not quite aligned and risk shoving the gasket out of place.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #18
        I like the Fel-pro kit with the blue end pieces too... not only because the lips help hold them in place even with mild wiggling, but they act as a visual confirmation that they are still in place after you get a couple bolts in.

        Another helpful hint... don't be a dingus like me and leave the PCV valve in the oil cap... I failed to consider that this effectively creates a blockage, since the SEFI sucks air in the opposite way through the valve cover. I burned 1/2 quart of oil on the 325 mile trip to Scottfest... luckily Ivan found me a perfect fitting to replace it with. Im sure it took some life off my piston rings...
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

        Comment


          #19
          Yeah I got the felpro one and directions said sealant in the corners like gadget said.

          I made decent progress today, got the lower on. Then I was going to start the fuel lines and realized the ones that I had wouldn't work because i disconnected them. So I went to the junkyard to get some all the way down to the rubber like suggested. But all they had was a mark 7.

          So I took those lines and then when I got home realized that the mark 7 lines both come down the passenger side while mine are on both sides.

          I can probably route the lines on my car to one side or I can try to find another efi cv/gm maybe tc and take those lines.
          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

          2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

          Comment


            #20
            Ok, got the proper fuel line from another junkyard, off a 90 gm and is it all the way to the nipple like suggested, now i just need hose and clamps.

            All I have removed so far is the old intake, so tomorrow I am wanting to get the fuel lines hooked up and remove the old computer and harness. I know not everything I have is needed for the SEFI, so can i basically remove everything that the SEFI computer doesn't have a harness for?

            a few things in particular,

            the set of three solenoids on the drivers valve cover:

            I know one is for EGR but do I need the other 2? These all have vacuum lines the come together and joined a three way piece on the old intake, whereas the SEFI intake only has one vacuum spot. I did not see any of these solenoids on 85CrownHPP's car in his thread.

            Also, my car has two metal tubes behind the intake going down and bolting to the back of the motor ( cant see it too well). these tubes come up and go to a pump looking thing on my passenger wheel well near the map sensor. What is this and does the SEFI require it? I also didn't see this on the other thread either.

            Thanks, and I know it may be hard to get without pics but I can get some tomorrow.
            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

            2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

            Comment


              #21
              that trio of solenoids is on the passenger inner fender on SEFI cars. The other two are for the air injection (smog pump).

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                #22
                Alright so I'll be keeping those then. Do they require vacuum on SEFI? I don't recall seeing vacuum to any solenoid on the donor car. And my van doesn't have any vacuum solenoids either. However different it may be anyway.

                Im asking because currently my car has a lot of vacuum tubes that I disconnected from the CFI crap, and the SEFI didn't appear to have that many.

                Thanks
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                Comment


                  #23
                  remove the nonsense on the valve covers completely. Honestly I'd give thought to replacing those valve covers with the SEFI ones just to get rid of the stupid bracket.

                  Use later model solenoids so it plugs in properly. they changed that thing a couple times, so get one that fits your harness. Pretty sure the part is actually the same, but the connector is not. They all have a vacuum supply from the manifold, and branch out to their appropriate bits from there. Two work the smog pump valves, one is for the EGR. These will end up living wherever they are on the SEFI car, probably on the fender where your smog pump BS is now.

                  The air injection pipes pump air into the heads for about 5 minutes after startup to warm the exhaust more quickly. Its not neccesary, and I don't think the CFI air injection pipe will clear the SEFI intake anyway. Either block it off, or use the later model pipe. If you just take it off, you'll have an exhaust leak. The smog pump and all that nonsense functions exactly the same on a SEFI car, but the control valves are hung in the hose sort of in space instead of being bolted to the inner fender.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Yeah I just took it off for now. It was too low for the new intake to fit. I already have an exhaust leak and will be hanging my new exhaust after I get the car running. If its not needed I'll just block it off and remove that pump.

                    Looks like I'll need to get those solenoids you mentioned and hopefully I'll be good on parts. Its very time consuming going to the junkyard always forgetting something.

                    Just wondering, does anyone have any specs on a CFI 302 vs SEFI 302? I hope it gives me less problems than the worn out CFI but some extra power wouldn't be all that bad either. Then is there any specs with HO upper and injectors?
                    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                    2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      More or less the output of an 86 Mustang HO, with a bit less HP and torque.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        non-HO 5.0 CFI in 85 I think was 155 hp with dial exhaust, the 86 motor was 160 with duals but it had crappier heads. All things being equal, I'd expect ~170hp out of a SEFI 85 motor with duals, possibly a little better. Definitely better torque production out of the SEFI motors and better throttle response. It might not be much faster in the 1/4 but they feel a lot ballsier to drive.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #27
                          If you run the HO injectors, you need the HO cam and HO ECM.

                          I put only the HO upper and throttle body on mine with a bored-to-match stock EGR spacer, and it runs great! worlds better than when it was CFI.

                          The three solenoid packs on the valve cover can go in the trash, they are evolved for SEFI. Just make sure you have everything that plugs into the SEFI ECM wiring harness.

                          Another tip, the 86-89 cars have that stuff on the passenger fender with a large vacuum harness going to them full of brittle plastic vacuum lines. 90-91 cars have them attached to the upper intake so there are much shorter lines running to them and you don't disturb the lines as much by removing the upper intake, you can leave them all attached.
                          Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                          'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                          sigpic
                          85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                          Comment


                            #28
                            if you really want the solenoids... I still have my old ones (smog pump got deleted when it seized up). These are from my 88. Just the two for the smog pump though. But if you're in an area that doesn't have regs that require ALL STOCK EQUIPMENT... just leave that crap off.

                            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                            Originally posted by dmccaig
                            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              The solenoids are not needed. Save for the EGR solenoid (if you want the EGR to work). The smog pump and the related bs can go in the trash though.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I got the regular injectors because I'm pretty sure I read on here that i would new the cam to run them.

                                I did throw away the valve cover solenoids and got the SEFI ones. I don't really need any of the smog pump crap I just got the EGR solenoid. I may even bypass that if it won't sacrifice the car running well. Kentucky doesn't give a crap about emissions so that good to me

                                Today I got the fuel lines hooked up and swapped ecms and got about 2/3 of it wired. I need to probably splice the connector that I believe gives the ECM power. (comes out of firewall near ECM) And I need to figure out which connector from the SEFI ECM goes to the ignition peg on the starter solenoid because the CFI one was wired with the ECM.

                                I'm waiting on an 88 EVTM in the mail so hopefully it gets here soon so I can finish. I'm hoping after I get it all hooked up it doesn't leak or anything because I'm doing this outside and the mosquitoes are terrible!
                                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                                2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                                Comment

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