Here is a picture of the headers installed.
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i have the hedmans, after a few yrs the flanges warp and they leak.......bbk's are much better
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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I have a set of mid length headers here modded for a box just sitting here.http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
http://secondhandradio.com/
R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634
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Originally posted by 88Vic View PostI imagine if you can fab them yourself it is but if you have to pay someone else the gains aren't worth the extra cost over shorties.
Long tubes are a fucking pain in the ass no matter the car. They're not worth it on a build that don't require them because they take up so much space and get in the way of everything. After having two cars (one Ford, one Chevy) with long tubes I can safely say they're far too inconveniencing for me to give a fuck about them on a daily driver/street car.
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LT headers are GREAT! if you don't mind the hassle of install and, if designed properly for the application, don't interfere with much of anything...unfortunately most make starter replacement a nightmare on SBF's. I've been toying with the idea of making a set of LT headers(from scratch) for a box for awhile and now that I have a running spare car that's been unmodified, I'm wondering if there is enough interest in longtubes to justify the cost of me prototyping a set. When properly sized, LT's improve power everywhere, problem is most people go too big on primary size...and they do wonders for making an engine sounds deeper and meaner.
Regardless of interest, I will be making a set for my tudor(351W/T5) eventually, but that's a much less common combination than a standard plain-jane 302/AOD.
-Don'85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.
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My car sounds awesome with the long tubes, I'll say that much. The Monte sounds hardcore too. I can live without the sound if it also means living without the hassle though. My El Camino has a far healthier motor and stock manifolds and it sounds better than either one because I know it's got the bite to back up the bark.
and if you go looking to make your own, do the world a favor and use a nice, thick, single-piece head flange instead of four separate ones. God, so much hassle could be avoided if some of the shittier companies just used one-piece flanges.
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Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post...and if you go looking to make your own, do the world a favor and use a nice, thick, single-piece head flange instead of four separate ones. God, so much hassle could be avoided if some of the shittier companies just used one-piece flanges.'85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.
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