85 Crown Vic Tudor

[pantera77]

Alright, I've managed to make zero progress today in the wiring department. I wanted to either make the a/c work or the ignition properly work. Neither occurred. Pin 30, the neutral drive switch doesn't seem to make any difference, the r/g "run" wire loses power when cranking thus killing the PCM. If I give it 12v's when cranking, it fires right up. Is the ignition switch different on CFI cars that makes it lose power?

Also, quick recap, harness wise it's all off an 88'. Injector harness, 02 harness, trans harness, and the main harness are all off the same car. Alt is a 3g that's been converted to a "1 wire". (well actually 2, the green with 2 red stripes amp wire need to be hooked up for it too work). Where the trans harness connects to the car harness by the cowl has been connected as well. I ditched the old square connector for the newer round one, all 4 of the wires matched color wise. Otherwise, it's just where the main PCM harness connects to everything on the drivers side wheel well that's giving me problems.

I'll start with the easy stuff first.
2 - Brake on/off
6 - VSS -
39 - Speed control command switch ground
50 - Speed control demand switch



I believe this connector is only for the cruise control, but seeing as this car has stand alone cruise, if I'm not mistaken, I don't actually need to do anything with it?

There's also that mysterious 6 cavity, 3 wire connector in the pic. It was plugged into nothing on the 88'. I actually forgot to trace any wires in it.




Random 3 cavity, 2 wire connector near the washer/overflow jug. Red w/blue strip and Red w/green stripe. IIRC this had something to do with the external regulator alt, which is long gone. I may be wrong though?







8 cavity, 4 wire connector half way between the engine and wheel well, under the airbox. Originally had 7 wires on the car side, but only 4 wires on the engine harness side. I removed the 3 "blanks". Red wire which doesn't seem to do anything at all or trace to anything, 2 black wires that trace to ground, and the white w/ pink stripe #30 Neutral Drive Switch wire.







6 cavity connector on the car side that I found most of the wires homes already. All that's left is a green w/ purple dash that's spliced together at the connector which I believe is for the a/c cycle switch, although I have no idea where it goes on the SEFI harness, and a Red w/green strip wire that's spliced together at the connector and I have no idea what it's for.






8 cavity, 5 wire connector on the SEFI harness (removed 3 "blanks"). The one black wire goes to the pin 10, a/c clutch signal, the other is a mystery and traces nowhere. The r/w and w/r are oil pressure and water temp (though I won't be using them I connected them), the red w/ green stripe in the "run" wire. On the car side it spliced with another r/g wire at the connector, though if I hook that wire up, the PCM has constant power even with the ignition off, hence why it is currently disconnected





And last this 8 cavity 8 wire connector on the car side of things. The 2 r/g wires where the "Run" wires, though like I said the one has constant power with the battery hooked up. Next is the Red with 2 green stripe amp light wire, that goes to the alt, then the r/w and w/r wires for oil and water, it's the bottom 4 that i have no idea what they do.

[gadget73]

the ignition switch is the same on the cfi cars actually. on the sefi cars, that particular pin loses power in crank mode too. its just got another source of power when cranking. The CFI cars did too, but it was a different location. You'd have to look up the starting circuits on both cars to figure out how to wire it together. I don't have a CFI car EVTM here, and its like 2:30 and I can't be arsed to go look at a SEFI one right now either.


No need for the cruise control stuff. You could convert it to integrated if you wanted to waste time for no benefit but I wouldn't bother myself. You don't really need the BOO switch since its CC related too. The VSS should be hooked up though. it will make the EGR valve go retarded if there is no VSS input and you end up with an off-idle stumble. If you're using the 88 trans harness, there should be some extra wires in and out of that for the starting circuit and VSS. The neutral/drive switch wiring would also tie into that somewhere, though without the book in front of me I couldn't tell you exactly how.


random 2 wire plug near the washer bottle might be the low washer level indicator? Not sure if Vics had that.

[87gtVIC]

Good luck with the wiring.

[murphmobile2]

This car is coming along really well man, I don't understand why it ever was considered to be a derby car in the first place. I love what you're doing with it!

[lincolnlarry]

Congrats, Glad to see that car get a second chance. Even better then it's previous life!
Thumbs up for Jan and Dean in the video.

[pantera77]

Thumbs up for Jan and Dean in the video.

[Hearsesrock427]

Glad to see the '85 is coming along.... she'll be rockin' parts-bin hot rod once all that wiring's good to go. Update video was sweet too. "The differential switch is like uh-oh spaghettioes!" HAHAHA! That and the noisy fuel pump..... makes mine sound like freaking bambi in comparison.

[packman]

What or which Crown Vic is that at 5:00? It could be the lighting and camera angle, but it looks like my mom's CV.


Packman

[FatNasty]

Just caught up on this thread, its a beautiful vic, especially that front end. Well done

I wish I kept better track of the wiring work when I did the cfi-efi swap. After 6+ years I don't remember much, but remember spending a lot of time working with some of those connectors and wires you show in the videos.
I also went cfi--> sefi --> HO/GT40 setup with '87 harness --> HO/GT40 setup with custom '91 harness all in separate steps, so I can't see my original work now. I might try to dig through all the notes I wrote down at the time, while going through the pictures I took, and try to make sense of what I did with each wire.

Anyways, Keep up the good work, car's looking great

[gadget73]

hopefully your notes are better than mine. John and Jason have seen my scrawls from the engine swaps in the 92 Grand Marq and the 93 CV. Its largely rows of jibberish that made sense at the time, but would be almost completely useless now. I remember spending lots of time with a pair of EVTM"s in front of me, going page by page to match things up.


anyway, 1991 starting circuit info, from the MArk VII EVTM. Its probably close enough for reference.

Output from the start switch in the dash is on a red/light blue that changes to a white/pink wire. This goes to the NSS and to pin 30 on the ECM, and returns on a red/light blue wire. ECM will see +12v with the key in the start position, and should just be open circuit elsewise. The red/light blue goes to the TFI, and the starter relay. Pretty sure you should have two wires over by the starter relay currently. One is the original 1985 R/LB wire to the starter relay S terminal, the other one ought to be the one from the 1991 harness. You can cheat it and just tie those two together to feed the ECM's NSS pin and the TFI module, or you can replicate the 1991 setup entirely.

[pantera77]

Thanks guys, I was going to make a long post update, but here it is in video form.

[sly]

[gadget73]

Sweet. And I must get one of those 80s mojo-magic guage devices. Mind getting me some size measurements? basically I need to know if it will fit into a single DIN radio hole. I have the CD player console for a Towncar, and that might be the perfect thing to go into that spot.

[Mr Bean]

It looks STAP ready.

[pantera77]