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second oil change since I owned the car (engine restorer)

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    second oil change since I owned the car (engine restorer)

    Since I owned it I ran Valvoline 10 W 40 4 qts plus a quart of Lucas. ( I think I used Purolator or motorcraft filter)

    it is now 3k miles and am changing the oil again.

    I do notice that it consumes a little oil and that in the morning or cold starts I would be getting what peopel call valve train noise (lifter noise) that would go away after a few minutes. (I kow its not knocking but it sounds top end. I could be calling it wrong.

    So I was thinking of continuing using the oil combo I am now. What do ya'll think??

    In addition I was considering putting in this thing called engine restorer which comes in 4/6/8 formula cylinder cans. Anybody know if this stuff is worth it?
    "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

    -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
    -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
    -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
    -2011 Subaru Outback

    #2
    If your engine is clean inside, You can use 5-30 synthetic oil. It will get to the components a bit faster when she is cold. You should experience a slight probably unnoticeable improvement in fuel economy. Plus you can cut you oil changes in half. The newer cars generally recommend 5-20 these days.

    I can not find the articles anymore but the lowering of the top number has been proven to reduce engine component wear as the oil itself is thinner and so causes less wear from the oil itself beating/wearing on the parts.

    Oh the reason I asked about it being clean is that if it is not, then do a few short interval changes with conventional 5-20 to get it clean before switching to a longer change interval.

    Personally I use Mobil 1 extended performance oil. It is good for 12 months or 15K miles. Since I only put about 2-4K on each car in a year this works great for me. I change them all in the spring.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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      #3
      If your engine is clean inside, You can use 5-30 synthetic oil. It will get to the components a bit faster when she is cold. You should experience a slight probably unnoticeable improvement in fuel economy. Plus you can cut you oil changes in half. The newer cars generally recommend 5-20 these days.

      I can not find the articles anymore but the lowering of the top number has been proven to reduce engine component wear as the oil itself is thinner and so causes less wear from the oil itself beating/wearing on the parts.

      Oh the reason I asked about it being clean is that if it is not, then do a few short interval changes with conventional 5-20 to get it clean before switching to a longer change interval.

      Personally I use Mobil 1 extended performance oil. It is good for 12 months or 15K miles. Since I only put about 2-4K on each car in a year this works great for me. I change them all in the spring.
      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

      Comment


        #4
        Its probably bottom end. I wouldn't run 5w30 on a high mileage non-HO. The firing order beats up the bearings, and even under the best of conditions they typically hammer a bit on startup over about 120k miles. Thinner oil makes it even worse. There is no practical fix for this problem other than running 10w30 or 10w40 and not listening to the noise. It will very slowly get worse and by 300k miles or so you might really have to consider doing something about it. Until that time, ignore it and just keep oil in the car.

        If the motor is healthy though, 5w30 works fine. I run it in my Towncar. I run 10w30 in the Mark VII. The Mark is pretty healthy by all accounts, but its currently at 243k on the clock and I don't want to push my luck with it. The motor is spotless inside and absolutely quiet so I'll feed it the oil its been living on for the last 22 years.
        Last edited by gadget73; 07-29-2013, 04:53 PM.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by porschpow View Post
          Since I owned it I ran Valvoline 10 W 40 4 qts plus a quart of Lucas. ( I think I used Purolator or motorcraft filter)

          it is now 3k miles and am changing the oil again.

          I do notice that it consumes a little oil and that in the morning or cold starts I would be getting what peopel call valve train noise (lifter noise) that would go away after a few minutes. (I kow its not knocking but it sounds top end. I could be calling it wrong.

          So I was thinking of continuing using the oil combo I am now. What do ya'll think??

          In addition I was considering putting in this thing called engine restorer which comes in 4/6/8 formula cylinder cans. Anybody know if this stuff is worth it?
          put 10w30 in it all year round nothing else and it will run forever. definetely no fix in a can or 5w20.
          Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

          Comment


            #6
            i would listen to Gadget... i use 10w30 in my car year round... it has 251,xxx miles for a 1986 Grand Marquis... still runs like a top and only leaking some from valve covers gaskets i have to replace
            Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

            Comment


              #7
              10w30 in the boxes mang, always. When the waggin was flickering the red engine light of death at idle (failing oil pump), put in 20w50 racing oil. Would have kept going for years if the exhaust hadn't went and needed too much other stuff. Mechanic forgot the 20w50 at an oil change and I put a can of engine honey in to thicken it up.
              ,
              Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

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