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Vibrations at 55-65mph

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    #16
    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
    12mm 12 point if memory serves.
    +1 this is correct. Impactable with an impact u-joint. Works like a charm.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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      #17
      Thanks. It sucks getting stumped so early into a project on such a menial item.
      1991 Grand Marquis LS.
      2001 Mustang Bullitt (bought new)

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        #18
        I read somewhere that another symptom of bad U-joints is clunking sounds. My car still vibrates (a little bit) but makes absolutely no funny sounds from the driveline. Could the u-joints still be bad in this case?

        1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
        2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
        2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

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          #19
          sometimes they clunk if you shift from park to reverse if they are sloppy, but sometimes not. Best way to check them is to drop the driveshaft and roll them through their range of motion. The joints should move smoothly. If they bind, they're done.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #20
            when I replaced the ujoints on my 88 they were so done the needle bearings were gone on 6 of the 8 caps... only one cap on each ujoint had good bearings left.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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              #21
              At least I can rule out the u-joints now. I checked them for a third time, this time with both wheels completely off the ground and the car in neutral. Absolutely no play in either joint.

              Is it normal for the rear wheels to have a little bit of play when you pull on them straight out? I pulled on the drum itself too, and it seems like the whole axle shifts in and out by about 1/4 of an inch.

              1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
              2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
              2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

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                #22
                EDIT: I checked the front u-joint again and it had a little bit of play. With the tires and rims all balanced and in good shape, that's the only obvious issue that could be causing the vibrations. It still looks safe, but I want to replace them both as soon as possible.

                1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
                2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
                2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

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                  #23
                  I changed mine, but haven't driven it yet. Mine never made a noise, it was just the way the car "felt." They were rusty and dry looking. I'll post up if I notice a difference when I drive it.

                  Do these cars normally have an aluminum driveshaft? It sure made it easier having one.
                  1991 Grand Marquis LS.
                  2001 Mustang Bullitt (bought new)

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                    #24
                    Yes its normal to be able to pull the wheel in and out a bit.

                    Another thing to consider, is that you may have (non visible) damage to a tire. If you have the same size tires, put the fronts on the back and the backs on the front.

                    Alex.

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                      #25
                      I have the exact same problem

                      Originally posted by bigbullitt View Post
                      mine is when accelerating or not, but a little worse when giving it gas. Vibration felt more like it was coming up from directly underneath the car. I know what tire vibration feels like, and this isn't it. My new u joints are only guaranteed for 50,000 miles and the car has 150,000, and i don't think they've been replaced ever.

                      I decided to remove the drive shaft this evening, but got stumped by the bolts. I had nothing that would fit. I'll go to the parts store tomorrow. What size is it, anyway? I'd rather learn it from someone here.
                      "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                      -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                      -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                      -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                      -2011 Subaru Outback

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                        #26
                        OP, still have the issue???
                        "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                        -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                        -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                        -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                        -2011 Subaru Outback

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