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Thread: My 1989 Crown Victoria.

  1. #341
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Cool Rusty Leaking Trunk Hack Patching Part 2

    Here's my hacky patching to fix the holes in the tail light area:

    Same idea as the other patch but I found a aluminium ziti tray I had floating around the garage to be easier to mold into the shapes I needed than the thicker aluminium flashing so I used that and some more of that sealant.

    outside:



    Inside with only a light coating so far:



    While I was there, I had two cans of undercoat so I decided to give the rest of the trunk a coating as I don't have carpet anymore. (Lost it to a diff fluid spill years ago)


    Quick coat of paint over everything after it's all dried:





    Just need to go over the black with some matching paint and should be good for a while. No more leaks now.

  2. #342
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Nice work. Rust and water leaks suck.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  3. #343
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Suitable repair. Should get the job done for you. You aint restoring the thing right? No problem in doing what you are doing to get you by.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  4. #344
    I post a lot...
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    I am so greatful I do not live in the land of rusty cars.

  5. #345
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    Nice work. Rust and water leaks suck.
    Yeah, I was worried if I didn't do something I was going to lose either my trunk floor or my rear quarter panels down the road with how the water was just sitting in them like a lake. Surprisingly the quarters rust free on the inside. Once I make sure it's 100% dried out, I'll give them a coat of POR15 just as an added precaution.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Suitable repair. Should get the job done for you. You aint restoring the thing right? No problem in doing what you are doing to get you by.
    No plans on a restore. It's currently my good weather daily driver and "modding" car. It's not in bad shape, definitely over due for some sort of paint job and the roof getting ripped off though.

    I figured that I don't ever plan on selling the car so as long as the repair works, it's fine by me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rodentkiller View Post
    I am so greatful I do not live in the land of rusty cars.
    It sucks. Surprisingly this is the only decent rust on the car. The whole underside has been POR15'd and painted multiple times. I also stopped driving it in the winter a few years ago which definitely helps keep the decay at bay. My '96 Oldsmobile which is now my winter weather driving car has gone from mostly rust free to a good amount of surface rust underneath in just the past few years. At some point this summer I plan to re-coat the bottom of that car again as well.

  6. #346
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    All good deeds don't go unpunished.

    I did oil changes this past weekend on the CV and LTD and now the CV's rear brakes are binding up hard at partial braking. (Had e-brake on when the car was jacked up).

    I'm going to have to pop the rear drums off and see if the cable is binding. I've never replaced the hardware back there, only the shoes, wheel cylinders and the drums themselves so something might just decided to kick the bucket. Picked up some rear brake stuff just for the heck of it for cheap in case I need it. (If I don't need it now, I probably will down the road anyway...)

    Who knows though. Never had good luck with e-brakes on these cars. Out of the four now that I've owned, three of them I had to cut the e-brake cable due to getting stuck engaged. I guess we'll see once I take things apart. As for now, until I figure this out the car is designated to around town driving only as I don't want to have to deal with the brake getting seized a few towns over (again).

  7. #347
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    My Town Car is clean as can be underneath yet I'm still afraid to even touch the parking brake. I'm sure it would bind anyway.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  8. #348
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Yeah I'm not sure if it's a bad design or what. My '78 has a different design and the e-brake is completely fine to use... never binds up. In fact there was a Ford recall that added the "apply the e-brake" sticker to the dash for those year cars due to them popping out of park.

    I was able to get the e-brake to unbind tonight by engaging it while driving down the road and then popping it off while still rolling. Barely even engaged during it even though I pressed it most of the way down but seems like it's not sticking so much anymore. Still this next week I'll rip it apart and see what the heck is actually happening.

  9. #349
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I had luck with my brother's Ranger once, in getting the parking brake to unbind. Was once mine, told him never to use it as I never did. What does he do? Uses it the first week he had the truck.

    Anyway, it would release a millimeter or so, and I just kept applying and releasing it for a good while and it worked the rust and skag-nasties enough to satisfy us. Was definitely lazy that day.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  10. #350
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Cool New Grille and some maintenance stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    I had luck with my brother's Ranger once, in getting the parking brake to unbind. Was once mine, told him never to use it as I never did. What does he do? Uses it the first week he had the truck.

    Anyway, it would release a millimeter or so, and I just kept applying and releasing it for a good while and it worked the rust and skag-nasties enough to satisfy us. Was definitely lazy that day.
    I might have to try that. Finally had time to take things apart today (Been driving my '78 as my daily). The driver's side seems to be the one that was getting bound up. Passenger side was fine. I Brakekleened the hell out of both sides and was able to get things okay for now. I have all new rear brake hardware that I might tackle sometime next week. While everything's off I'll be able to check out the cable better.

    My '96 Olds blew a brake line.. I thought I could get away with just patching the blown out section but when I pulled it down... this is what I saw from front to back:

    Needless to say the whole line had to come out. Autozone didn't have the spool of line so I had to union two lines together. Having issues for some reason getting the one side to seal. I've reflared it so many times now I'm starting to run low of "give" length. (Usually it's not this much of a PITA, not sure what's up). I thought I had it finally patched up but after I went for a ride around the block there was a tiny tiny bit of wetness... oh well. It's going to wait now until next weekend.

    Back to the CV:
    Got around to swapping on my '79-82 grille on to the car. Even not being the cleanest grille, the chrome is still way more shiny than what I had on there so it looks a little off... might need to get some headlight chrome to match or something... idk. We'll see.

    Luckily the '87 header panel actually has the mount screw holes for both era grilles. The ones in the red circles are the ones for the '79-'82 style. I was actually really surprised by this and was fully expecting to only have it held on by the 5 other screws:


    Before.. probably going to get some that like this look better:


    After (notice the extra shine):


    I had an extra Motorcraft fuel filter laying around since I lived in my old apartment 6-7 years ago. Figured it was worth changing as the one of the car now has been on there that long. On the new filter I marked the date and mileage to keep track of. The one I took off of the car I didn't do that with but I have to say, still looked brand new. No gross fuel came out of it on either end.
    Old filter:


    I still had some lasagne tray left over from my tail light repair (lol) and the stupid AIR pipe to the cat has been leaking again for a year or so. I decided to just wrap some tray around it and hose clamp the crap out of it. No idea how long it will last but it's at least quieter for now and took zero effort.


    I didn't bother taking an pics of it but I had a two cans left of Eastwood's internal frame coating with the special nozzle for them. While I had the car jacked up, I went around the whole inside of the frame and soaked it. Probably could use another coat of this stuff (or more) but at the very least it's a start. (outside of the frame has been POR15's and painted a bunch of times already.. and is still rusty in spots...)

    Alternator belt has had some start up squeaks since the 3G swap. I thought I could have gotten away without cutting out the original bracket but I guess not. Finally got around to doing that today (as well as hitting the new exposed metal with some paint (with some nice over spray as well )). While doing this I noticed I never tightened the bottom pivot bolt back up from when I put the alt in. Oops.


    No more squeal.

    Last thing I attempted to do was put the front control arm bump stops in. My car has been missing them since I did the nylon bushings. I was able to get one side in (new moogs) but the other is just a stuck stripped bolt rusted solid to a sharp piece of metal that spins when you try to loosen it. I tried heat, I tried clamping, I tried hammering a screw driver in there... nothing. finally I got the drimmel out and started just cutting at it. With the crazy 90 degree heat and the heat from running the drimmel, it ended up burning out it's brushes so I had to call it for the day.

    All in all.. pretty productive.

    Edit: Just calculated the mileage between my two odometers (original vs 140 speedo). Looks like I'm up to 238k miles on this car. Nice.
    Last edited by slack; 07-15-2019 at 03:12 AM.

  11. #351
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Grille looks nice.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  12. #352
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Grill looks awesome on there!

    I had the same squealing problem with my 3G swap; ended up tightening up the belt with barely any slack.

  13. #353
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Grille looks nice.
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    Grill looks awesome on there!

    I had the same squealing problem with my 3G swap; ended up tightening up the belt with barely any slack.
    Thanks! Yeah originally it seemed okay but started to squeal at start up after a bit. I wonder if it was more due to the fact I forgot to tighten the bolt than the belt stretching a bit like I thought. So far no squeals with the new tighter belt location. Exhaust is surprisingly holding up too, but I doubt that will last.

    Thinking about maybe tackling the headlight relay mod this coming weekend. I picked up the parts like 4 years ago for it but never got around to doing it.

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