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Swap in a 3.55L complete rear end into 91 GM advice

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    #1

    Swap in a 3.55L complete rear end into 91 GM advice

    Hello,
    I have some time off coming up and would like to go ahead and do the swap of a 3.55L Police rear into my car. I have never swapped out a rear end before and would like to ask for any advice that will help me do it. I've got some good jacks and hefty jack stands. If I replace the axle bearings and race before I dig in, is there anything else I should know or do? How long might something like this take? I hope the car is not down over 3-4 days.

    Thank you...Thank you...Thank you,
    G.Pyle

    Mike
    90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
    90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
    91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
    70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original
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    #2
    If you're swapping complete for complete, I bet you could get it done in a single night. Technically speaking you're only talking about one brake line, two e-brake cables, and four bolts for the trailing arms and two for the shocks. A breaker bar for the trailing arm bolts helps and it's also not a bad idea to leave the tires on so when you lower it out of the car you can just roll it out presuming you have the rear end of the car sitting high enough.

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      #3
      You will need a rather large torx bit. I think it is a T60 or T65 possibly for the control arm bolts above the diff.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.



      ​

      Comment

        #4
        Rebuild the rear and the traction lock before you put it in. At an absolute minimum, the axles should come out for inspection. If you're keeping it drum brake, make sure all that stuff is ready to go. I'd go disc personally, but I generally dislike messing with drum parts.

        If you have an extra set of control arms, re-bushing them and swap them in too. At a minimum, change the bushings in the rear while its out of the car. Its much more accessible on the ground vs in the car.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          Rebuild the rear and the traction lock before you put it in.

          This! Much easier on the ground then in the car. I made that mistake once. The rebuild kit is only $70 for the standard one.
          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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