Fuel switching questions.... got the orange "CHECK ENGINE" light came on

[Hearsesrock427]

This all happened about a week ago. I filled up Ebyt with about half a tank of ethanol free 87 octane gas. I didn't know what kind of gas was in there beforehand- I'm assuming since it was a daily driven MI car that it was something with ethanol, likely 87 octane gas. I also noticed that when I tried to pump the ethanol free gas, I had to apply a certain amount of trigger pressure to make it pump. (If I did squeeze full pressure, it would just go "CLICK!" and stop pumping the gas within half a second.).

I pulled out of the station to begin the trip home. Within a couple minutes, the check engine light came on. I knew better than to ignore it, so I looked for a parking lot to pull over in (I was on a 2 lane road with no shoulder, go figure). By the time I found one, the light turned off, and stayed off ever since. She was making some weird sounds until that point though. Didn't sound the same under acceleration either. But she smoothed out, and kept on chuggin' along. The check engine light turned off, and all seemed normal.

Perhaps the car just had to burn off the crappy ethanol gas before running fine again? What should I do in the future when I want to switch to ethanol free gas?

[kishy]

I also noticed that when I tried to pump the ethanol free gas, I had to apply a certain amount of trigger pressure to make it pump. (If I did squeeze full pressure, it would just go "CLICK!" and stop pumping the gas within half a second.)

Can't offer much on the rest, but I do know this part. Our fuel filler necks go down at a funny angle and some pumps will be more picky about the angle you hold the handle while pumping. I've found many pumps will auto shut-off if I hold the handle full pressure in a completely straight angle, but if I tilt it sideways (hose facing down towards back of car) it works better. YMMV.

(the gas station fuel pump shut off is activated by a mechanism that senses fuel splashing back up enough against the end of the nozzle, so if it isn't going down into the tank fast enough or is splashing around in the filler neck, it will think it's full)

[91waggin]

If the yellow check engine light came on, that means there are stored codes in the computer. Even if the light turns off it will still remember the codes. All you need to pull them is a length of wire and a pen and paper. You ground a particular wire on the drivers side fender under the hood and hop in the drivers' seat and count check engine light blinks. More info on this all over the internets.

[sly]

+1 get the codes.

the fuel tank vent may be clogged (which will give you the issue with pumping gas) or the charcoal canister. I can't remember off the top of my head if the 89 has a check valve on the tank or just a hose up to the charcoal canister.

[Hearsesrock427]

Updates. Ebyt's back from the shop, with new tires and brakes. I read up on the self-tests, and printed off the guides.

I started Ebyt at the shop. Let her idle for about 2 minutes, them pulled onto the road. There was an odd smell I was driving out of the shop.

I was on my way to AutoZone to get the necessary stuff (wire to connect the STI to the battery terminal) for code-pulling when the infamous red "replace engine" light started blinking like crazy. It was hard to see initially (sun glare), but it was DEFINITELY blinking. Pulled over within a minute of noticing, and shut her off. I smell something- same thing I smelled earlier. Maybe burnt oil? I don't know.

Popped the hood, and while it was warm underneath, there was no smoke, no grinding noises, no nothing. Ebyt sounded fine all through the trip. I have business to attend to in an hour. Not sure if I should have her towed home, or just limp her home. I'm scared to even start her now.

[slack]

If it's not a short in the wiring that light usually comes on because of over heating or no oil pressure. I'd vote tow if it was any distance until you can check the oil pressure. I have heard stories of other peoples cars having the "lopo knock" and running fine with the light going on and off but I feel like that's probably the exception more than the rule.

[Hearsesrock427]

Limped it to AutoZone, replace engine light flickered a bit while at a long red light, then flickered sporadically.
I checked the oil via the dipstick. It definitely has oil. A little low, but it's there.

Of course, the AutoZone I limped to cant get the codes, let alone supply me with the wire. I'll check to see if they have a tool for measuring oil pressure. If they do, I'll test, and report back.

If not... I'll get it towed.

[sly]

check the oil level and coolant level. if both are good... it could just be a wire, sensor, or oil pump going.

[HiFiMerc]

Install an oil pressure gauge. That is the tool for checking oil pressure.

[91waggin]

Limped it to AutoZone, replace engine light flickered a bit while at a long red light, then flickered sporadically.
I checked the oil via the dipstick. It definitely has oil. A little low, but it's there.

Of course, the AutoZone I limped to cant get the codes, let alone supply me with the wire. I'll check to see if they have a tool for measuring oil pressure. If they do, I'll test, and report back.

If not... I'll get it towed.

It's low oil pressure. Very common in higher mileage 302s with the lopo firing order. At hot idle it will bounce right around 6psi, which is the threshold that triggers the light. Put 10w-40 in it and keep running it. It will go for a looong time like this.

You should also know that many of these cars' dipsticks lie about where full is. Many of them show full at 3.5 quarts. If you haven't made a new full mark for it, you should probably do so.
Change oil. Put 5 quarts in and new filter. Start it, wait for oil filter to fill, then shut it off. Allow a few minutes for oil to drain back into pan. Pull dipstick and check oil. Where oil level sits now is your real full mark. On mine the actual full mark is right on the ford oval stamped on the dipstick.

My point being that if you say it's a little low, it could actually be a LOT low.

[gadget73]

If its idling low or running hot, it will also have lower than normal oil pressure.

and yeah, the dipsticks suck for accuracy. I had one that "full" was 1 quart low. It had been re-marked on the back of it already. I got that dipstick and tube out of something in the junkyard.

[Hearsesrock427]

Update!

I managed to limp Ebyt home VERY carefully. Oddly enough, she stalled out when I tried to start her the first two times. I'm thinking it's a dirty IAC or some vaccum line issue. (I also noticed an odd bouncing/surging idle.) Curiously, the replace engine light only flashed once throughout the whole trip home. That being said, I'm done playing russian roulette. Ebyt's gonna stay parked in the driveway until I get the necessary stuff to diagnose this. I sincerely appreciate the fast & accurate replies to this. I'll raid AutoZone tonight/tomorrow for the following:

-Oil pressure gauge. Easy. Saw a whole bunch for sale when I stopped by earlier.
-10w-40 full synthetic oil (not sure if they have MerconV.... any other good brand of oil to buy?)
-An oil filter that isn't FRAM. I think I saw some Bosch premiums when I was there earlier. Should I pick up a few of those?

I'll read up on checking coolant & flushing the cooling system in the meantime. I planned on doing a cooling system flush sometime this summer. If Ebyt's parked, I might as well do it now.

Once I have everything, I'll change the oil and update the dipstick accordingly. Will keep you guys posted on the results.

[gadget73]

Mercon V is transmission fluid. You don't want that in the engine.

Best oil brand is whats on sale I'm usually not real picky. Most of my stuff lives on WalFart synthetic and Motorshaft oil filters but i've been known to use other brands when convenient. If its being changed every 3k, it barely matters in all honesty. I figure as long as its an oil made or sold by a big company, I'm probably OK. I'm not going to buy BestOilEvar brand for 82 cents a quart though.

[Hearsesrock427]

@gadget: Derp. I meant Mobil One or whatever they call it.... haha. I'm still learning, it would seem. I plan on doing a tranny fluid flush at some point during the summer as well! I remember seeing AutoZone 10W-40 full synthetic. If I find a Motorcraft filter(s), I'll pick one up. Otherwise, I'll just buy something that isn't FRAM. Will change oil & filter every 3,000 miles.

[HiFiMerc]

It lights up very nicely in the dark

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-6121/overview/