Engine Stalling

[Brown_Muscle]

Had this happen twice, exact same conditions. I don't want to get stranded somewhere....

Pulling up to a stop the car stalls (thankfully both times in driveways).

It will cranks and VERY occasionally fire on 1 cylinder, but most of the time won't even try. I've tried holding my foot to the floor, giving it gas, all the tricks in the book.

It has spark at the coil at this time

After it cools off a little for 5-10 minutes it restarts and runs fine.

I'm leaning towards a carb issue since it had good spark...but it's just so strange, anyone hear of a problem like this? I don't need it happening to me at an inconvenient time or place (like in camden).

82 FORD LTD 351w with a 2150 carb that was recently rebuilt.

[johnunit]

often I've found with carbed vehicles that 'cooling off" is partly about a flood condition dissipating. If holding the throttle open after it's stalled shows lots of steam/smoke coming from the carb, that could be your issue.

[marquisman]

When it does restart, does it restart after just hitting the key? Or, does it need a pump? I would be checking for fuel, next time it does this. Right after stalling out, pull the air cleaner lid off and see if the accel pump is squirting fuel. If not, that means the carb is running dry. I had a similar problem with my dads old wagon. Turned out to be a rusted out fuel line at the fuel pick up(fuel pump would loose prime and suck air). Another issue may be that, the tank vent may be clogged or blocked. So, you could try poping off the fuel cap and see what happens. But first thing, verify if fuel is in carb, when this happens again.

[johnunit]

yeah the nice thing about a carb is that it's pretty easy to diagnose if there's at least enough fuel to idle getting to it. pop the air cleaner, fiddle with the throttle, and look/listen for the squirt.

[Brown_Muscle]

I did this at the time actually, Definitely getting fuel, squirts it, I tried cranking it for a while with the throttle fully open, but it did not help. It could be flooding, but in general the carb runs pretty lean (that's how i tuned it with an 02 sensor). Any other ideas as to why it might be flooding? Also when it did fire it may have back fired, and an odd smell came from the engine (it actually appeared to be BEHIND the engine...??)

[marquisman]

hmmm, this is weird since, it only started recently. Are you sure you have GOOD spark?

[91waggin]

What ignition module do you has? Duraspark or TFI? Often ignition modules (GM's HEI does it too) will get hot and fail to provide (adequate, correctly timed) spark, but when they cool off they work normally until they heat up again.

[Brown_Muscle]

Spark seemed strong, but i saw it from inside the car when i was cranking it over, so might still be weak.

It can affect spark timing? interesting, that would do it, since I know i do have spark. I have a duraspark 3 module "converted" to duraspark 2. I believe it is original... I've been meaning to buy a new DS 2 unit, along with a coil to carry around in case one failed. The reluctor ring and pickup were recently replaced (like 2 years ago)

[Brown_Muscle]

OKAY, so to resurrect an old thread...

It is still having this problem. I've replaced the ignition module, and ignition switch (the old one would get pretty warm/hot after driving, the new one does not). However it still has this issue! Stranded me twice. Seems once the engine temp goes below 190, or after waiting 5-10 minutes, it will restart. Is it possible the coil is weak?

I tried a test last time...it has spark at the coil, i tried to test for spark at the end of a sparkplug wire and it seemed to have no spark, however i ran out of time when i tried to confirm this and the car started...

Any other ideas?!

[gadget73]

Try replacing the rotor. I had one go stupid and it would arc through the plastic into the distributor shaft. It would do the same thing, spark at the coil but nothing at the plugs. Look closely for burn marks through the top of the rotor.

[Brown_Muscle]

I'll check it out, the rotor's metal part did get bent at one point, and it's been unusually tight against the cap ever since.

[miamibob]

Why not simply replace it, as it is cheap enough, and see what happens??

[gadget73]

I have also run into temperature sensitive pickups and coils before. Usually with a pickup, you get diddly if its open though. A weak coil could give you an orange spark or a short blue spark at the coil but not enough to fire at the plug end. If it won't jump a solid inch with a blue-white spark, I'd say something is weak. If you've got an ice pack with you, slap it on the coil and see if it comes back. I remember a boat trip many moons ago in the '68 Donzi with a 302 that involved a plastic bag full of ice around the ignition coil to get us home. It ran when cold, but not when it warmed up. the ice kept it ticking along and we got back.

[Brown_Muscle]

Ha! Well I will have ice packs with me, but i think I'll just put the new coil in before I leave for CT tomorrow. Better safe than sorry, and I'll knock on wood and keep my fingers crossed. I'd rather not be the one to hold us up at Scottfest.

[87gtVIC]

I'd rather not be the one to hold us up at Scottfest.

You wouldn't be holding anyone up Phil...we'd just leave you.











Love ya.