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electrical questions with swapping to starter with the solenoid attached

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    electrical questions with swapping to starter with the solenoid attached

    So I've got an electrical-wise stock 351W/variable venturi car with the starter solenoid on the fender. I bought one of the newer starters (asked for a 91 crown vic 5.0 one) that's smaller and has the solenoid on the starter.

    I've pretty much got it as far as wiring the starter itself. run the start signal wire to the small terminal on the starter, run the starter cable basically directly from the battery to the big terminal on the starter.

    What should I do with the cables that are currently on the positive terminal of the fender-mount starter solenoid? It's the positive cables for pretty much everything on the car. I think there are 5 actual cables. I now have nowhere to hook them.

    Suggestions/ideas I've gotten so far:

    1. quick and dirty; put all those cables and the starter cable together on a bolt, crank a nut down on it, and cover it in intense amounts of electrical tape or some other insulator

    2. maybe overly complicated; mount a junction box where the solenoid is now, and wire each of the existing wires into their own spot. This sounds pretty time consuming, and like a mess of wiring to get that and a decent sized starter cable going to the positive battery terminal.


    Anyone have a better solution?

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

    #2
    Best thing to do would be, get a fuse box. Then, get rid of the fuse links going to solenoid and run to fuse box. Will be doing this with GMGT. I picked up two from the wreckers.

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by marquisman View Post
      Best thing to do would be, get a fuse box. Then, get rid of the fuse links going to solenoid and run to fuse box. Will be doing this with GMGT. I picked up two from the wreckers.
      So I'd be running one wire from the positive battery terminal to the fuse box, and then just putting in every positive wire except the starter to stuff in the fuse box? Is there a car I should be looking for to get a fuse box from?

      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

      Comment


        #4
        This is what you need and its much simpler.

        http://www.ebay.com/bhp/12-volt-terminal-block

        Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car
        Using Tapatalk

        Comment


          #5
          Yea, the aero fuse box(like most late model ones) has a bunch of fuse slots and all go to the main positive stud. Run wire from box positive stud to batter positive post. Then, run each fuse link to individual fuse positions. I like the aero box because, it has a good amount of mega fuse spots.

          1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
          1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
          1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
          2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
          2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by kodiak View Post
            This is what you need and its much simpler.

            http://www.ebay.com/bhp/12-volt-terminal-block

            Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car

            Well, shit. It's the thing I was wondering about the existence of but couldn't describe enough to google. thanks.



            I'd love to do the full re-wire thing, but at this point I'm just trying to get it on the road for the summer. The more wiring I can leave undisturbed, the better.

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment


              #7
              Happy to help

              Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car
              Using Tapatalk

              Comment


                #8
                You still need to use the fender mount solenoid with the mini starter - I hope you did not run the tiny red trigger wire directly to the starter...

                All you have to do is swap the fat cable that goes from solenoid to starter over to the steady 'hot' post on the fender solenoid instead of the switched side. This gives the starter the high-amp power it needs. Then you just run a smaller 10-12ish gauge wire from the switched side to the starter, this is its signal, and how it works in its factory setup. The thin red wire going to the solenoid isn't meant to handle the load... It probably works for now, but you may be slowly melting anything from your ignition switch on!
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post
                  You still need to use the fender mount solenoid with the mini starter - I hope you did not run the tiny red trigger wire directly to the starter...

                  All you have to do is swap the fat cable that goes from solenoid to starter over to the steady 'hot' post on the fender solenoid instead of the switched side. This gives the starter the high-amp power it needs. Then you just run a smaller 10-12ish gauge wire from the switched side to the starter, this is its signal, and how it works in its factory setup. The thin red wire going to the solenoid isn't meant to handle the load... It probably works for now, but you may be slowly melting anything from your ignition switch on!
                  Thank you, that's something I was missing. I haven't hooked anything up yet though. So the post that did have my starter cable now goes to the smaller signal post on the starter?

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Read thru this
                    http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=218409

                    Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car
                    Using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      And an even better one.
                      http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20487/79373-2

                      Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car
                      Using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                        #12
                        this one is the best: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...tarter-install
                        ~David~

                        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                        Originally posted by ootdega
                        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                        Comment


                          #13
                          Here's my spiel on it.

                          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post717176
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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                            #14
                            wow, thanks for all that guys.

                            Assuming i'll be back in there later to do a fusebox and stuff, it sounds like all I need to get it working is a 12 gauge or thicker wire from the solenoid on the fender (going where the starter cable is now) to the solenoid on the starter, then moving the starter cable to the same stud that the positive battery cable is on. Nothing else gets messed with.

                            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Here is a pic for you to help you visualize.



                              Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car
                              Last edited by kodiak; 04-25-2014, 06:23 PM.
                              Using Tapatalk

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