Need help

[L1011tristar17]

Could be bad u-joints. Does the car seem to clunk when shifting into gear?

[extortion00]

not really a clunk but it isn't a really smooth shift either.. the delay in shifting and vibrations all happened around the same time..

[gadget73]

stuff at that low of a speed is usually more of a flat or high spot on a tire sort of problem than a U joint issue. Not impossible though if the U joints are extremely bad.

[sly]

yeah... I'm betting on the near bald tires. Buddy of mine had a bad vibration on his exploder and it was a front tire with a blister. got a used tire swapped on that was actually round and the vibration went away.

[sly]

yeah... I'm betting on the near bald tires. Buddy of mine had a bad vibration on his exploder and it was a front tire with a blister. got a used tire swapped on that was actually round and the vibration went away.

[extortion00]

crazy enough it was the tires causing the vibration.. got all 4 new ones and rides nice.. still have a little bit of a late shift but not nearly as bad

[mercuryblues1995]

ive never seen different color check engine lights in any ford ive ever owned I got a 95 grand marq LS with a 281 in it and my check engine light is orangish yellow or I guess a light red depending on light conditions in the pass compartment I believe ford engine lights are orange anyway but I got the digi dash in mine too so .......... check engine lights come on for the stupidest reasons in order to get mine to turn off I had to change my air filter go figure that one out ol

[gadget73]

well, you're kind of right. The light that reads "Check Engine" is amber. There is also a red light on boxes that just says "Engine". Not all boxes had the amber computer-driven Check Engine lamp, but the 89- at least all had the red Engine lamp. The red light of doom comes on if you have no oil pressure, or have severely overheated the engine. The amber one comes on if the computer is upset about something. Those two lamps are often confused since they both contain "engine", but mean very different things. Maybe in 1990 they did away with the confusing lights and went with a red lamps that told you something specific, rather than just you need to replace the engine.

[extortion00]

Checked EGR vacuum line and it seems good... possibly a bad EGR? oh and would a code 34 make the engine over rev before shifting.. that's what i am talking about with it feels like a late shift

63 says you have a problem with the TPS. Its probably bad, or the tab inside has broken. You can verify it with a voltmeter but its probably not lying.

34 means the EGR valve isn't opening. It may be a cracked vacuum line between the valve and the control solenoid.

98 means the engine off test didn't pass. Change the TPS and fix the EGR valve issue so that you get a code 11 with the engine not running, and this should go away.

[sly]

the TV cable being a dink tight might cause over-revving (gotta "drive hard" to get it to shift cause it wants to rev high before shifting), but if you're talking about it shifting and spinning up in the middle of the shift, that's probably worn out clutches/plates in the trans and in need of a rebuild/shift kit.

[91waggin]

well, you're kind of right. The light that reads "Check Engine" is amber. There is also a red light on boxes that just says "Engine". Not all boxes had the amber computer-driven Check Engine lamp, but the 89- at least all had the red Engine lamp. The red light of doom comes on if you have no oil pressure, or have severely overheated the engine. The amber one comes on if the computer is upset about something. Those two lamps are often confused since they both contain "engine", but mean very different things. Maybe in 1990 they did away with the confusing lights and went with a red lamps that told you something specific, rather than just you need to replace the engine.

In 89 they had both the red "Engine" and the yellow "check engine." In 1990, when they changed the dash, they went to an actual temp gauge, an oil pressure warning light, and a yellow check engine.

[gadget73]

Checked EGR vacuum line and it seems good... possibly a bad EGR? oh and would a code 34 make the engine over rev before shifting.. that's what i am talking about with it feels like a late shift

Use a hand pump to apply vacuum to the valve. If it opens and stays there, its fine. If thats good, unplug it from the solenoid at the other end and try again. If thats good, verify you have vacuum to the solenoid in the first place. The plastic lines and the connector tend to be problem areas. If all that checks out, its probably either a bad control solenoid, or the position sensor is faulty. Most of the time though, its either a bad vacuum line or a bad valve.


34 wouldn't have anything to do with shifting. Maybe TV cable adjustment would.

[extortion00]

I dropped the Transmission pan today and replaced the filter with some new fluid with a half quart of Bar's Leak 2 part transmission repair.. didn't really change anything.. going to give the TV cable adjustment tomorrow any good write ups on how to do this? btw it's more of a high rev that holds unless you give it more gas then it shifts.. even worse with the A/C on

[sly]

that sounds like the TV cable is too tight (probably by 1mm)

[extortion00]

hmmm i never touched it besides replacing the brass bushing which was almost a year ago... would it be a intermittent problem if it was the TV cable?