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Thread: I call it the Monolith. I have plans for it.

  1. #181
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    Alright, looks like I might get some use out of those bimetal sawzall blades after all.

    I'm not sure how confident I would be in getting it installed without a rebuild, because the reason my current one is borked is I flushed it, which cleaned out the grime that was keeping it functioning. So I'm sure you can understand why I'd be nervous about it. I mean, I guess I'd have another one I could rebuild if it happened again, but that's at least half a grand down the shitter, assuming I also removed my own.

    What does the bushing indicate that implies it would be acceptable? Just general abuse, or is it more specific?

    With the Lincoln, is it the entire case that's longer, or just the extension housing? Cause for some reason there's a short extension housing just sitting there inside the car.

    Wow, you guys are fast. Thank you.

  2. #182
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Lincoln is longer in the tail shaft and housing. You'd have to replace the tail shaft and the tail shaft housing to make it fit properly. And if you're that far into the trans, might as well replace all the broken bits along the way since you've got to take EVERYTHING out to get to the tail shaft.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  3. #183
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    I see, that makes sense. The Town Car is longer, and that's easier to do.

    Theoretically, you could probably shorten the driveshaft instead, I think. Assuming that doesn't completely screw up the angle. That's still more effort, but more doable if it comes to that.

    Are there any other ways to tell if I would be safe without a rebuild?

    EDIT: Obviously the dipstick and pan, chucklenuts.

    It should be noted that I am still recovering from two consecutive concussions. On the second one, I passed out, fell backwards and hit the concrete floor so hard that when my jaw slammed shut, it dislocated and chipped two of my teeth just from sheer inertia. Have to regularly relocate my jaw now, because it won't stay aligned. Sometimes I forget where I am for a second, and my short term memory has taken off to run a tech startup in New Jersey.

    Anyway.

    So the real question is how much oil I will have to deal with if I drop the pan. Doesn't look like it has a drain plug.
    Last edited by ootdega; 01-06-2022 at 12:56 PM.

  4. #184
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Even one that looks mint on the outside may not work. No real way to know if a trans will work until you put it in gear without taking it apart.
    Pan drop... 4-5 quarts. Complete refill is 14 quarts. VB out, 10-11 quarts.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  5. #185
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    3 and a half gallons. Wow.

    I figured as much. One one hand, most original owners of these wouldn't be driving them very hard. On the other hand, they statistically also wouldn't have a clue how to maintain them. Granted, the previous owner of mine was NOT nice to it, and neither was I in the grand scheme of things, but still.

    I should probably rebuild it anyway, just to be safe. Not looking forward to that either, especially since my only workshop is my own studio apartment.

    What are the odds of this thing crushing me to death when I get it loose? That's about 200 pounds of metal and oil, all the cars are lifted using old wheels, and the yard doesn't allow jacks. I don't know if that also applies to transmission jacks; I forgot to ask. Worst case, I guess I could borrow an old mattress. In any case, I'm not going to get very far if I end up in the hospital or something.
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

  6. #186
    fomoco panthers !
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    If it were me (I am disabled) I would not mess with pulling a transmission that you really don't know what shape it is in. You could pull the inspection plate and look at the torque converter. If it has been replaced, chances are it is painted. That still doesn't insure the trans is good. A better and safer choice would be to buy one already pulled or can be pulled by a wrecking yard. You should get at minimum a 30 day warranty. I would not buy one unless it is for 90 days. You might spend a bit more money. How much money would you be out if you got hurt or the trans was junk?

  7. #187
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    If you weren't so far away I'd sell you my old trans cheap, I can guarantee it'll work well. If you do have to pull it in the yard, get as much fluid out at you can first
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  8. #188
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    It will crush you. It is very heavy especially in an awkward position like under the car on dirt with little access.

    Id say pull some rear seats and use those to soften the fall of the transmission once you have everything unbolted and try to pull it from the rear and have it drop onto the seat bottoms. Then drag the sucker out.

    Id say best bet is to grab a rental or if you have another vehicle to handle the transmission and drive to Phil and get the sure thing. Sure it is like 10 plus hours one way but you are getting the sure thing.
    Last edited by 87gtVIC; 01-09-2022 at 05:29 AM.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by ootdega View Post
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  9. #189
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    If you are by some chance seriously considering it, PM me and I can give you more details on the trans. I could always drive a couple hours west to lessen your total trip
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  10. #190
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Would some small jacks (hydraulic) under the trany help? I haven't checked this entire thread but is a rebuild of your current trany out as a possibility?

  11. #191
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    What I did when I pulled the AOD in favor of the T5Z was build a wooden cradle that bolted to the floor jack and fit around the transmission pan. Made things easier on a paved driveway.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by ootdega View Post
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  12. #192
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    Sorry it's been so long without a response. Depression has been slowly dissolving my soul.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    If it were me (I am disabled) I would not mess with pulling a transmission that you really don't know what shape it is in. You could pull the inspection plate and look at the torque converter. If it has been replaced, chances are it is painted. That still doesn't insure the trans is good. A better and safer choice would be to buy one already pulled or can be pulled by a wrecking yard. You should get at minimum a 30 day warranty. I would not buy one unless it is for 90 days. You might spend a bit more money. How much money would you be out if you got hurt or the trans was junk?
    I was planning on rebuilding it after I removed it. I have all the tech manuals, and they're really well written. As for money: If I was hurt, no idea. That happens all the time. If the trans is junk, they charge $200.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    If you weren't so far away I'd sell you my old trans cheap, I can guarantee it'll work well. If you do have to pull it in the yard, get as much fluid out at you can first
    I...will seriously consider that. That very well could save me. New freakin Jersey, though... The logistics of that would probably defeat the point, wouldn't it?

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    It will crush you. It is very heavy especially in an awkward position like under the car on dirt with little access.

    Id say pull some rear seats and use those to soften the fall of the transmission once you have everything unbolted and try to pull it from the rear and have it drop onto the seat bottoms. Then drag the sucker out.

    Id say best bet is to grab a rental or if you have another vehicle to handle the transmission and drive to Phil and get the sure thing. Sure it is like 10 plus hours one way but you are getting the sure thing.
    Well I already pulled the back seat, but that's because I'm keeping it, lol. I could grab some trashed leather seats out of a Vic or something. I was going to support it with bungee cords, but that would also help.

    I have another car I've been driving. 03 Sentra, it was my grandma's. I don't really hate it, but I call it the Maximum Shitbox for a reason. It's currently three different colors. I'll leave how that happened up to your imagination.

    I dunno. It would beat the hell out of freezing my ass off for two days and spending god-knows-how-long rebuilding it myself, but that's 3 days minimum, unless I'm missing something.

    Quote Originally Posted by friskyfrankie View Post
    Would some small jacks (hydraulic) under the trany help? I haven't checked this entire thread but is a rebuild of your current trany out as a possibility?
    The yard doesn't allow jacks, including transmission jacks. Rebuilding the current one isn't completely out of the question, but I'm not allowed to work on it in the parking lot, so I need somewhere else to take it, and I don't have anywhere. I am almost completely alone in this endeavor. In all endeavors, really.




    I was at the yard a couple weeks ago. I got myself:
    Back seat
    Rear cover
    Rear speakers
    Front door panels
    Front speakers
    Rear door trim
    Window motor

    And all relevant hardware that I could find. Which is saying a lot, because the door panels are held on with twenty-five screws.

    The seat is in much, much better condition, and I got some replacements for scuffed trim pieces.

    Will I be able to bolt all the speakers directly in? The tech manuals don't have any clear answers for me. I would imagine they would use a single body style and just change what they put in it, but I can't be sure.

    I also have a couple 6x9 three-way speakers I found a while back. Would those be usable in the rear, or am I stuck with the originals? I know exactly nothing about sound systems.

    Also, I need a driver's door window. Every matching vehicle they have has a busted driver's window. I strongly doubt I could use the passenger window instead. Are there any obscure matches I'm unaware of?
    Last edited by ootdega; 02-01-2022 at 10:50 PM.
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

  13. #193
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    I have another car I've been driving. 03 Sentra, it was my grandma's. I don't really hate it, but I call it the Maximum Shitbox for a reason.
    I just HAD to say it, didn't I

    I got all geared up to head to the junkard, aaaaaaaaand it won't start.

    There is absolutely no reason it shouldn't start. Fuel pump is new and clearly working, plugs are new, coils are new, air filter is clean, it has power, it cranks...then I pulled the dipstick, and the oil is burnt. It was clean synthetic the last time I checked it. It's not black; the original color is there, but it's clearly charred. Coolant temperature was always fine, so at this point all I can deduce is the oil pump failed and she's done.

    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

  14. #194
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    engines dont need oil pumps to start. If it wasn't pumping the idiot lights would be on anyway. No oil pump won't give you burned oil either, it'll just make sparkles and lock the engine up in a very short amount of time. Probably just getting old, or maybe the engine is running hot.

    If its got fuel and compression, it has to be no spark. Pull a plug and verify. Know nothing about Sentras but if its got coil packs, fair bet it drives them from a crank or cam position sensor, and if one of those failed it won't go.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #195
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    There may be EGR stuck open preventing it from running. Not sure of the configuration on that car though.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  16. #196
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    ooph, sorry to hear about your other car, hopefully it's something simple!

    I...will seriously consider that. That very well could save me. New freakin Jersey, though... The logistics of that would probably defeat the point, wouldn't it?
    It is a decent drive, but it may be worth it. Depending on some things I might be able to drive out 4ish hours, make a small vacation/weekend out of it, so the drive would be about 6 hours for you... I'll DM you some details on the transmission and whatnot and you can decide for yourself
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  17. #197
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    He's in Idaho, not Indiana. Cutting 4 hours off would be a drop in the bucket.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  18. #198
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    I had to junk the Nissan. I hauled it to the mechanic, after spending three hours getting the piece of shit onto the trailer, and he discovered that the mass air sensor and the crank sensor both shat themselves at exactly the same time. The air sensor was reading fifty degrees off. 700 dollars to fix it. At that price, I had to choose, and I chose the Mercury.

    I got 325 for it, which is honestly more than I probably would have been able to sell it for if it was running. It was a heap. Someone else has been driving me around since.



    I have been working on removing the transmission from the '90 LS in the junkyard. As of today, the only things left holding it in are the top two bellhousing bolts. The extension housing and exhaust were already removed when I got there, so the tailshaft is just sitting on the crossmember, and coincidentally, the main problem right now is the crossmember. The yard set the car down with the frame sitting on stacked rims. That's where the problem comes in. They set it down directly on the crossmember flanges, so they are both bent upward and I can't reach the bolts. I can get a wrench in there, but 3/4" slips and 11/16" is too small. It needs an 18mm wrench, which are apparently harder to find than a talking unicorn. I have an 18mm socket, but there isn't enough room to get it in there. A crescent barely fits, and I can't get it to bind.

    I am not sure what to do. The options I can see right now are to cut the crossmember, or shift the transmission backwards and let the front down. I dunno if that's physically possible, and I dunno if the yard will let me cut it.

    I go back in the morning. What should I do?



    On a side note, there was a 95 Vic next to this one. It had a tow package. I've always wanted a tow package. I now have a tow package.

    On another side note, these have a two-piece dust cover, so you don't need to remove the starter to get to the flexplate bolts. I learned this after I removed the starter. This was one of the most difficult things I have ever done. I was not exactly amused.
    Last edited by ootdega; 03-27-2022 at 08:12 PM.
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

  19. #199
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    If there's room for an adjustable knuckle buster, you might try that. Other than finding an open-end/box-end wrench at a store, not sure what you can use. As for cutting it, if you use a battery powered reciprocating saw, most yards will allow it. Obviously, you'll have to check with them. A good bi-metal demo blade typically does the trick.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  20. #200
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    Skip the crescent wrench you'll just round it off. Go into any parts store and grab you an 18mm box/open end wrench. They should have it. I have needed all kinds of odd size wrenches and have most always been able to get them there. I have a 16, 18, and 21mm all from OReilly's.

    If all else fails ask the yard to have them move the car onto something else so you can get to them. I needed exhaust from a GP in the 'yard and the way it was stacked I couldn't get the catback out from under it. Went up front and kindly asked the person at the desk if they would bring the skid steer over and lift the car up long enough for me to safely get it. Said give him 10 min and there he was. Gave the guy a $10 tip and off I went dragging an entire catback to muffler system from the back of the yard to my truck.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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