85.03 Crown Vic Coupe "CVGT"

[gadget73]

if you know any steampunks into creating crap, i've got a bucket of dead vacuum tubes i'll donate to the cause

[sly]

*points at Bowman*

[Bobcat]

some poop on distributor gears

http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/...t-the-details/

you're not running a high volume pump in that are you ?

Nope.


I was recommended to use a Bronze gear with the Trick Flow cam. I was also told that the MSD distributor should have a bronze gear as a replacement. And the guy at the speedshop informed me that per my distributors shaft thickness a factory replacement and use for the cam I have, would be a Bronze gear.

Apparently TFS1s are known to eat cast gears. But she's alright

The distributor was used and I'm assuming by reading this article, was "mated" to another cam.

[Mr.Blue]

Flush that engine out nice and good. Never good to have bits of metal flowing around.

^this..............just have to keep a check on the bronze if you do alot of street driving otherwise its good to go, also not sure if anyone makes a direct fit steel for the msd dizzy...pretty sure the shaft dia. is different from stock........

[gadget73]

well, if the people that make the cam say bronze, then bronze it is I guess.

[Bobcat]

Flush that engine out nice and good. Never good to have bits of metal flowing around.

^this..............just have to keep a check on the bronze if you do alot of street driving otherwise its good to go, also not sure if anyone makes a direct fit steel for the msd dizzy...pretty sure the shaft dia. is different from stock........

Alright got it, I'll run the hose through the valve cover and keep the drain plug out so that the water can run out the bottom, then fill the engine with water and say it's good to go. It's already on its third oil change on this new engine. I haven't even finished break in yet. I'm waiting to use the good filter i have and synthetic.

@Mr.Blue
So the bronze gear should be good for street driving and should last awhile eh? I fully intend to beat on the car everytime I get into it. Trick Flow recommended the bronze but some guys have run a steel gear. But. I don't need my project getting set back by a cam losing all of it's gear to a steel gear, incase something goes bad. So I went with a bronze gear.

I had the part guy at the shop run the part number of the distributor and I assume he ordered the right gear. It is a speed shop, after all.



On a side note. Goddamn radio stopped working the other day, randomly. If I were to wale on the brakes, I can hear it flicker. This bastardized radio wiring.

[Mr.Blue]

Yes it will work fine.......just be aware that it will "wear" some, how much is anyones guess...i put at least 5k on mine and never saw anything in the oil or noticed anything out of the ordinary....i've ran a few on carbed cars with roller cams (msd dizzys)...........a steel gear would be ideal........and as for the flushing, accounting for those dizzy pieces/parts would be my concern lol...........

[Bobcat]

Yes it will work fine.......just be aware that it will "wear" some, how much is anyones guess...i put at least 5k on mine and never saw anything in the oil or noticed anything out of the ordinary....i've ran a few on carbed cars with roller cams (msd dizzys)...........a steel gear would be ideal........and as for the flushing, accounting for those dizzy pieces/parts would be my concern lol...........

Yeah that's what I was figuring.

So I took some time to sort out why my radio wasn't working or spontaneously working.

So Josh, the past owner of this car. (Some random kid in Brick New Jersey.) Decided that he'd put in aftermarket speakers. I liked that he did this, I always wondered why the front dash speakers buzzed at different pitches or any sort of depth within the music play. Well after tearing apart the entire dash last night, I was pleasently surprised to see that neither of the front speakers were bolted in and were about 1/2" too big. I also found out that when I pulled the radio out, he soldered half of the wires and just electrical taped everything else. Well I thought a shop did this, since it's got pioneer rear speakers (They're aweful for music depth. Great sound quality though.) and it's got all new speaker wiring that's been put in the car; that he would've done a good job. Well I used some weatherstripping to line the perimeter of the speaker hole and put a screw in each of them. (They need adapter plates and need the holes cut slightly bigger and new holes drilled. So fuck that, don't feel like pulling the entire dash just to fix these speakers. Speakers being some model of Jensen with tweeters in the middle. Well, after rewiring most of the radio, fixing the connections to the speakers, fixing the speaker mountage. She sounds great and i can bang on the dash and it won't cut out. Wooo... Now let's get it to be reliable and not break every goddamn time I try to take it out.

Project cars suck, this started out as a as an idea to run a very slightly modified 351w (Intake, carb) and was supposed to still have an AOD and the stock brakes. Goddamnit. In total, over 4,250$ later. I've got this mass of vehicle that can lay rubber for eternity. Let's hope this chalks up as another win on the dyno against Vicky.

Fuck, I should'a just put a TC 4.6 with underdrives!

[86VickyLX]

Even if you manage to beat it power wise. You won't beat it in reliability.

[SVT98t]

Wait, so your saying that my 4.6L is more reliable than your 5.0L?


-ryan s.

[86VickyLX]

Wait, so your saying that my 4.6L is more reliable than your 5.0L?


-ryan s.

I don't think so you oil burning coolant leaking retard.

[mitymerc]

Oooohhhh

[mitymerc]

Do I hear a dyno-reliability-ecomod challenge brewing?

[SVT98t]

All that work to make less power than my family couch.

-ryan s.

[SVT98t]

With less displacement......

-ryan s.