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Thread: Brake Fluid Quality and Changing

  1. #21
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Did another flush with fresh fluid while swapping out a leaky tire, touching up the oil spray, and changing the oil last Friday while it was a little above freezing. The jar with the black marks is from the latest flush while the other jar is from the prior flush. Using the light seemed the best way to get a good comparison. By the time I did the other photo without the light, condensation was forming on the jars since they'd been sitting outside. I'm figuring on doing three more flushes in the coming months before calling it good.

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    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 12-25-2016 at 08:10 PM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  2. #22
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    Well, the frequency of the flushes hasn't been going as planned, but I have done a few, apparently in May and November 2017, and another just last week. Here's the latest photo:

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    The jars have been sitting on my porch, and I've lost track of what's what. I'm pretty sure the two on the right are the ones from the December 2016 photos. The two middle ones might have gotten flipped, though I was under the impression that the darker one did indeed come after the lighter one. I do know that the lighter one had initially been green, but after sitting a couple of months, it lightened up. I guess it had enough fresh fluid to have an effect over time. I've been relying on the ABS self-test 'grunt' to circulate the fluid through the ABS unit, so I'm wondering if maybe the darker one was the result of the ABS actually having been used.

    The second from the left is from three lines during the latest flush, and the one on the left is the fourth line with lots of fresh fluid for the sake of finishing the bottle. What I started doing was dumping the fluid collected from a particular line into a second jar so that I know what I'm getting out of each line.

    FWIW, the gravity bleed goes a lot better on the rears with the calipers removed (I was doing parking brakes) and just allowing it to drip from the bleeder without a hose. That brought the speed up to what I get from the fronts with a hose on the bleeder.
    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 07-12-2018 at 01:43 PM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  3. #23
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    Has anyone tried one of these kits?:

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    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hand-Held-Va...MAAOSwQqZcDgOP

    I'm guessing the "free shipping" part is a mistake, but it would be a great deal if a good one arrived even after waiting the roughly two months it would probably take to get here from China. It looks like the most frequent complaint in reviews is loss of vacuum, but that's probably something some zip ties could take care of.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPreferDIY View Post
    Has anyone tried one of these kits?:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hand-Held-Va...MAAOSwQqZcDgOP

    I'm guessing the "free shipping" part is a mistake, but it would be a great deal if a good one arrived even after waiting the roughly two months it would probably take to get here from China. It looks like the most frequent complaint in reviews is loss of vacuum, but that's probably something some zip ties could take care of.
    I bought and used an identical one from Walmart. Decent hand held vacuum pump. Didn’t do the trick for brake bleeding on a 2005 E350. I suspect the volume of the vacuum was to blame. It would pull a vacuum but just instantly lose it once the bleeder was opened and didn’t pull much after that with additional pumping. Hands got tired so I stopped. Gravity worked well though but was slow. Still a good hand held vacuum source for other uses.
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  5. #25
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    I had some luck finding what seems to be the same model being used on YouTube. I'm not sure that holding a vacuum before cracking open the bleeder is all that necessary. If the pump is working right, it shouldn't be pushing out air before sucking it in. Here's a video showing someone who is apparently applying the vacuum only after the bleeder is cracked (at around 7:30 and 10:20; I myself would advise against using an adjustable wrench on the bleeders):



    If I can get that much fluid out with the pump, that would be good enough for me. I would still allow some gravity bleed just to be sure no air got in, but speeding up the process would be great.

    FWIW, here's a fellow who uses grease on the threads to reduce the amount of air getting sucked in through them (at around 5:10):



    That would be too messy for me to bother doing.
    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 06-12-2019 at 12:14 AM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  6. #26
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    Yes, you want a vacuum on it before cracking the bleeder so that no air is introduced at that moment. It's a just in case maneuver.

    +1 no adjustable wrench. Use a box end.

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  7. #27
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    long offset box wrench seems to work well, ideally a 6 point one so it won't round off the bleeder.

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  8. #28
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    I use a 6-point socket for the initial cracking and final tightening. In that context, my basic wrench is good enough for the open/close part.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  9. #29
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    From the WAYWO thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Vac pumps are also useful if you want to re-lube a porous bronze bushing. After cooking out the old oil, drop it in a jar of oil and pull vacuum until the air comes out of the bushing. Oil will take the place when vacuum is released. Small glass jars make good vacuum chambers. The metal lids can be drilled and a fitting epoxied in without any fuss.
    I just thought of a way to do the brake bleeding in a way that always ensures air does not get pushed into the caliper. My usual jar has a single hose going through the lid, but I'm going to make up a lid with two hoses epoxied in. One would go to the bleeder as usual while the other could be held in the end of a vacuum cleaner hose if/when desired. I would just use my hand to control the amount of vacuum. By doing it that way, I wouldn't have to contaminate the stuff in the kit if I don't want to. Besides, it will probably take two months to get here, and I'm hoping to do a wheel swap soon.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  10. #30
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    That's sort of how my bleeder kit came (now has been designated to just being a vacuum pump after being beat to crap). The hose went from the bleeder to the "output container" and then there was another hose attachment opposite to the input that you ran a hose to the vacuum pump. (unless I read that wrong... It's stupid late at night right now)

  11. #31
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    Some of the folks on MM.net had posted up about "speed bleeders" which are bleeder valves with check valves in them.

    These reportedly work with marauders which share calipers with CV GM & TC.

    Russell 639630 bleeders. These are not the part that the Russell website specs for that application.

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  12. #32
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    That's an interesting option. I guess it's one of those things that the car companies can't be bothered to install themselves. I'll probably stick with my vacuum cleaner approach if it works well enough. I have the JB Weld curing now.

    It looks like I'll probably be getting my money back on the eBay order. I just noticed in my eBay account that the seller is no longer registered and the listing has been removed. The order still shows up with a typical useless Chinese tracking number, but I'm not hopeful that I will see the item. At least eBay has buyer protection.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  13. #33
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    Just did proof of concept for my vacuum cleaner approach with some water. Wow.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  14. #34
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    I finally got the brake fluid to the point where it's good enough for me. The vacuum cleaner approach speeded things up, but the speed bleeders would probably be a lot faster. I think I'll put those on my wish list.

    I was able to get the bleeders open enough to let fluid out but not enough to suck air through the threads. With the vacuum cleaner, I was able to get a 'flow' from the fronts, but the best I got from the rears was a faster drip. When the rears were left to drip without the vacuum, the fresher fluid seemed to drip faster than the bad fluid for whatever reason.

    Since the bad fluid was within the realm of tan/yellow after lots of ABS use since the last flush, I went with a full quart rather than piss around with half-quarts again. I'm figuring I'll give it a year and then do another quart, and then go with a two-year schedule after that.

    I'm pretty sure the fluid never would have gotten to this point using only the suck-and-fill approach. Thanks for all the contributions.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

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