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Transmission pan leaking RTV?

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    #31
    To check the gasket for splitting like I described you don't have to take the pan off. Just get the car high enough safely that you can get under it entirely, and inspect with a light around the outside. If you see the gasket bulged out and with a crack in it near the source of the leak, you've found your problem.

    The cork/rubber mix gaskets are probably best for this application. They suck for some things (valve covers...) but they seem to do fine for this, plus they're a little more flexible I think.

    Current driver: Ranger
    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
    | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
    | Junkyards

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      #32
      That's what I figured, cork does seem to have more give.

      Would you use rtv/black rtv/copper ultra for this application for cork?
      "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

      -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
      -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
      -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
      -2011 Subaru Outback

      Comment


        #33
        I always use The Right Stuff. Comes in a caulk tube looking thing. Expensive at $20 a tube, but never had any leaks after using it.
        Nick


        Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
        Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
        Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
        Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II

        Comment


          #34
          I just don't use sealers on things most of the time. Clean mating surfaces and decent quality gaskets work for me. Cork gets puttied up with RTV because cork sucks ass. Rubber gaskets go in dry. Very careful prep of the sealing surfaces is a must though, otherwise its just not going to work. Steel pans sometimes get some bodywork to make them flat and true, machined surfaces get scraped clean, filed flat if needed, and wiped down with solvent. High spots and gouges are where gaskets just don't work.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by blkpnthr View Post
            Following torque specs has squished the rubber gasket out and split it 3 times for me so far. Learned my lesson. I do the bolts up until the gasket starts to try to squish out and call it good. ...
            Originally posted by blkpnthr View Post
            ... and if it's got threads it gets anti-seize. ...
            I'm wondering if the anti-seize might be why you're having problems with the gaskets. AFAIK, torque specs are for threads without anything on them. When you put something like anti-seize on the threads, you get less friction. By the time your torque wrench feels enough resistance, you might have gone past the intended depth. Based on what I've seen in the past, I think you're supposed to reduce the torque by about 25% if using anti-seize.

            The torque spec should be getting you to the point you describe where the gasket starts to squish out. Something else to remember about torque specs in an application like this one is that you want all the bolts relatively uniform. Normally, I would torque things like this in stages, using the proper pattern of course. So, if the max specified torque was 10 ft-lbs, I might do hand tight first, then snug, then 6 ft-lbs, then 10 ft-lbs.

            And I see gadget just made a great point about properly preparing everything. When I do work on my car, I kind of view things like this as performing surgery.
            Last edited by IPreferDIY; 10-08-2014, 06:10 PM.

            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
              I'm wondering if the anti-seize might be why you're having problems with the gaskets. AFAIK, torque specs are for threads without anything on them. When you put something like anti-seize on the threads, you get less friction. By the time your torque wrench feels enough resistance, you might have gone past the intended depth. Based on what I've seen in the past, I think you're supposed to reduce the torque by about 25% if using anti-seize.

              The torque spec should be getting you to the point you describe where the gasket starts to squish out. Something else to remember about torque specs in an application like this one is that you want all the bolts relatively uniform. Normally, I would torque things like this in stages, using the proper pattern of course. So, if the max specified torque was 10 ft-lbs, I might do hand tight first, then snug, then 6 ft-lbs, then 10 ft-lbs.

              And I see gadget just made a great point about properly preparing everything. When I do work on my car, I kind of view things like this as performing surgery.
              That was more of a generalization...the trans pan bolts aren't anti-seized lol. The water pump bolts, on the other hand...
              Definitely should have clarified that. Do NOT anti-seize the trans pan bolts.

              Current driver: Ranger
              Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
              | 88 TC | 91 GM
              Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
              Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
              | Junkyards

              Comment


                #37
                You would use this "Right Stuff" with a cork gasket?

                Where can you get this at, Home Depot? Autozone?

                Originally posted by LithiumCobalt View Post
                I always use The Right Stuff. Comes in a caulk tube looking thing. Expensive at $20 a tube, but never had any leaks after using it.
                "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                -2011 Subaru Outback

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by porschpow View Post
                  You would use this "Right Stuff" with a cork gasket?

                  Where can you get this at, Home Depot? Autozone?
                  I have on numerous occasions. Always seems to work for me. I picked mine up at Advance Auto. O'Reilly's, Autozone and the like should also have it.
                  Nick


                  Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
                  Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
                  Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
                  Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Pretty sure they recommend no rtv with rubber gaskets.
                    Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I use the moroso transmission pan gasket. It's basically like a felpro permadry gasket for valve covers or oil pan. The disclaimer on the page says that it's not for use on a stock steel pan. But I have not had any issues with it leaking at all. And, it's reuseable.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Is moroso on ROckauto?

                        And I thought stock tranny pans were aluminum?

                        Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                        I use the moroso transmission pan gasket. It's basically like a felpro permadry gasket for valve covers or oil pan. The disclaimer on the page says that it's not for use on a stock steel pan. But I have not had any issues with it leaking at all. And, it's reuseable.
                        "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                        -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                        -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                        -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                        -2011 Subaru Outback

                        Comment


                          #42
                          stock pans are galvanized steel.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Oh, ok, ideally, i would like to have the pan that has a drain plug. Would be easier to change the tranny oil
                            "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                            -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                            -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                            -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                            -2011 Subaru Outback

                            Comment


                              #44
                              summit. you can add a drain plug to yours.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Most places carry the plug kit. I brazed mine in on the Mark VII, but the washer works fine on the Towncar. Ivan replaced the plastic washer with copper. The plastic didn't leak, but he swears the copper is better. I have no opinion on the matter.


                                'nother thought, if the pan lip is tweaked, it won't seal right either. I had to do some bodywork to the pan on the Mark VII. When I had it at work to punch the hole for the drain plug, I noticed that around the bolt holes the pan wasn't flat anymore. A few minutes with a small hammer and a chunk of metal in the vise for a dolly fixed it just nicely. Its currently using the fiber gasket, which looks all the world like heavy gasket paper dipped in varnish, but its not leaky.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

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