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help! windshield fogs horribly at the drop of a hat

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    #31
    i've re-read that thread a hundred times... just to confirm: there are only 3 attachment points for the box/plenum, right? the one under the hood next to the outlet stub of the core, and the two interior down below (which, one is connected to the stud thru the firewall down by the tranny dipstick).

    i swear it feels like something is still attached. i can hear shit breaking now as i pry/pull/yank/twist this stupid thing to no avail -- it wiggles around the bottom but the top still feels stuck.

    Comment


      #32
      if the fastners are all out, it damn near falls out of there. It will definitely move without any significant effort on your part. If it feels stuck, something is still bolted in there.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #33
        here is what i think is going on...

        when installed, the dash sits on top of the plenum so the ducts align like this (simplified):

        Click image for larger version

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        my problem (i believe) is that now that the dash is "out" (forward), it is basically trapping that duct in the plenum below with all of its weight as it drops... to make matters worse, i have worked the bottom of the plenum box "out" (up), pushing up against the dash. so i'm wedged and can't move straight out (towards passenger compartment).

        Click image for larger version

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        for whatever reason, i cannot lift the dash any higher than where it would normally sit, which is flush to the to top of the duct, which is now angled up against it.

        i'm afraid my only recourse is going to have to physically remove the entire dash from the vehicle, which i'm not looking forward to after seeing the spaghetti of wire looms on either side.

        Comment


          #34
          I don't know how similar our cars are, and it's been awhile since I did mine, but I think the biggest problem with my dash was being able to pull it out far enough. I don't recall having to raise it up at all. Instead of trying to take the plenum right out, it might be possible to remove the top cover while it's still behind the dash and replace the heater core from there. I don't recall if I was able to do mine that way, or whether I tried and gave up and took the whole plenum out, but either way, I recall that a lot of fancy rotating had to be done. It's one of those things that becomes a lot easier after you've done it once. If you have the option, you can try going to a u-pull yard and practicing on a wreck. BTW, the one thing I learned when I practiced at a u-pull yard that I hadn't learned from all other sources was that one of the studs on the engine side of the firewall had a retainer washer on it from the assembly process. I had to use something to force the stud through the retainer washer. Are you dealing with anything like that?

          2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
          mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

          Comment


            #35
            I didn't have to raise my dash much, but I had to get it about 4-5 inches away from the firewall to see much of anything... and yeah, if the dash is resting on the plenum, you will not be able to remove it. I ended up resting the dash on my front seat.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by sly View Post
              I didn't have to raise my dash much, but I had to get it about 4-5 inches away from the firewall to see much of anything... and yeah, if the dash is resting on the plenum, you will not be able to remove it. I ended up resting the dash on my front seat.
              so don't you have to remove all of the wiring and vacuum lines to get it to the front seat? i can only pull mine out about 6-8 inches forward...

              Comment


                #37
                not really... the driver side was still almost at the firewall. Just kinda angled it over. I did have to pull some looms from their ties on the firewall to clear, but other than that, I don't think I touched any vacuum lines other than the one on the big ass can that controls the blend door and the one on the recirc door.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #38
                  just back to this today ... a week away really helped.

                  got most of it back together now, just need to finish dash/intr install and then on to the engine compartment. had to cut the old hoses off so bought replacement hose. a couple of questions:

                  1) the restrictor goes on the inlet to the core, right?
                  2) does it matter which is which? the restrtictor was pre-installed in the core tube but in the wrong side, according to shop manual.
                  3) the hose from the manifold is two-pieces with a connector for some reason (maybe that is where i pulled that ATC thingy when i first bought the car?) ... can i replace with one hose from the core to the manifold?

                  thanks. light at the end of the tunnel. of course the million dollar question will be if this did anything to solve (or help) my problem.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Restrictor has to go in the inlet hose, or the inlet tube of the core.
                    Also the connector between the two hoses is the TBLS, I would bi-pass this, and plug the vac portion of the hose.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by Toploader View Post
                      Restrictor has to go in the inlet hose, or the inlet tube of the core.
                      right, but does it matter which tube of the core is used for inlet?
                      are the two heater hoses the same ID/OD coming off the core tubes?

                      Comment


                        #41
                        restrictor would be best on the inlet hose closest to the pump as it would restrict the pressure to that entire loop and reduce the possibility of bloating the hoses between there and the heater core end... though that shouldn't be much of an issue

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          done

                          that. repair. sucked.

                          finally got everything back together (turned into a 4 day job) -- special thanks to JB Weld.

                          we'll see if this even did anything to address my original problem... weather is supposed to turn cooler later this week.

                          new heater core. flushed the radiator. new coolant. plus i did the Rain X treatment like someone recommended.

                          fingers crossed (i'm never doin' that job again!).

                          Comment


                            #43
                            you tested that core before installing it, yeah? I said the same thing, but thanks to me not pressure testing the new core, I had to do it again. It was bad out of the box, though I ignored the problem for a year or two until I couldn't stand it anymore.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #44
                              i did, actually, after seeing someone mention it here... thanks to this site (seeing a photo in advance) i was able to realize that the first core the guy at autozone brought out was damaged, as the inlet tube was bent down about 30 degrees. "um, i think this one is damaged".

                              that said, i probably wouldn't bother to do it again even if it was bad!

                              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                              you tested that core before installing it, yeah? I said the same thing, but thanks to me not pressure testing the new core, I had to do it again. It was bad out of the box, though I ignored the problem for a year or two until I couldn't stand it anymore.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                the stink was giving me a headache, so I gave in. The Mark VII has needed one for years now, but it only smells if I really wind out the gears. My solution has been to not beat on it for the last 5 years. Fox heater cores are even worse, they require that you discharge the AC system and remove the evaporator to get at the heater core. Plus of course the dashboard all comes apart to even get to those pieces.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

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