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88 GM Box Upgrades. Heads, Cam, Exaust - Page 3
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Thread: 88 GM Box Upgrades. Heads, Cam, Exaust

  1. #41
    GMN Regular merc91's Avatar
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    That cam being 112/108 is not going to have vac issues to mess up speed density but I would go a9 "L" or "P" with the mass air.

    A really good cam is comps xe258, way better than an ho cam and 1.7's never mind the explorer cams. High lift, low duration, low overlap is where low end power is made on a street driver especially with oem heads that peak flow in the 3000-4000rpm range.

    19lb injectors can handle any stock ford head/intake combo NA ofcourse. Mine started to lean out past 6000rpm after an all out porting, port aligning, reconstructing of the heads/lower/upper/75mm tb/ tapered 4"-3-1/4" cold air pipe with a turning vane and more tricks. 19lb injecters can do quite a bit.

    Good work with the exhaust choices.

    For heads, a 160-165cc aluminum head is best for daily driver power, next in line is gt40P, gt40, and HO noticibly furter back. You can never have to much flow, however the larger the port cc, the higher the powerband will be. Porting heads isn't worth it unless you really know what you're doing... only 1 way to get exerience is try. Both for power and for strength of the port walls. But Port aligning is never mentioned, it can be easilydone and nets some good gains. Loose bolt down your heads than do the same with the lower intake, it can slide about 1/8 back and forth for closest alignment but a look down the runners will show ledges to dremel down so the head ports are flush or a hair set in from the lower's port edges. I mark the head/intake/and gasket best alightment on the motor than take it apart, lightly superglue the gasket to the head or intake, and port match the intake 1/32 smaller, and the head 1/32 larger than the gasket port.

    I would definetly recomend explorer upper and lower intakes, I will post within the next few days with pics of the in's and outs to porting them, there is much to be gained from already good pieces that a 1st timer can usually manage quite well.

    You can't go to big on filter/intake pipe/tb/egr. Sizing starts it's role at the mouth of the intake runners.
    I went with a performance products cheep 75mm tb and the lever flips right over perfect to work on our drivers side setup, smoothed out the tunnel and thinned the blade post/screws, and adjusted the full throttle position the have the blade EXACTLY straight... Air speeds can hit 200mph, stick your hand out the window at that speed and tilt it 1/2* to see just how much energy air uses on you hand lol. We start with 14.7psi atmospheric pressure, than every little bend/friction/bump and turn takes a little bite out of that on the way to the cylinder.
    I got a fire really cooking out back and melted some aluminum down, poured it in the voids in the egr spacer than milled it flat afterwards to essentially make a solid egr spacer. You can also just go buy a solid stang spacer. I bored it to 76mm. Than I just drilled and tapped the firewall side to mount the throttle bracket to. It's easy enough.

    The a9p computer with a ho or explorer setup works perfect, even with the higher LIFT aftermarket cams, you don't need to get it tuned. I went through with the half day $600 dyno tune stuff expecting my missmatch of parts to need it, gained 1hp. A/F ratios, spark, and all the drivebility aspects, mileage were perfect to start with. This was with a 75mm cobra maf sensor.

  2. #42
    Member andrew_mccaffrey's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info! good to know about the tuning. we'll see how mine turns out.

    First step is complete! Took everything apart this afternoon with the help of a friend. I will start clean up and reconstruction tomorrow morning. Here is a time lapse of everything coming off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckn1...ature=youtu.be
    Andrew

  3. #43
    Member Mr.Blue's Avatar
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    Looking good!
    Rodney Tolleson, me at the track.....future drag box racer!

  4. #44
    Member andrew_mccaffrey's Avatar
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    So everything is back together and it started up first try, but it wanted to idle at (im guessing) 3500 rpms!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    i know the pic shows the MAF and ECU not wired up. It is now.

    It smelled pretty strong of gas and it would only start at wide open throttle. So I thought maybe it was running to rich from the 24# injectors so I put in the 17#'s and I am able to start it with out using the throttle and adjust the idle to a decently low level, but it will only start with the MAF unplugged. When I plugged in the MAF it revs up and down (maybe trying to learn and adjust) then it usually dies, a few times it was able to idle for an extended period of time, but when i shut it off and tried to restart it, it wont idle. I tried to take it for a test drive down the block with the MAF unplugged (since thats the only way it will idle), it still seems like its running super rich and it completely lacks power. like full throttle goes 0-35 in 60 seconds slow.
    When i check the timing, without the jumper I sit around 12 deg. When I plug the jumper back in, which in my understanding allows the computer to adjust the timing, it tries to advance it crazy amounts. its inconsistent but generally past the last measured markings over the "BTC" engravings on the balancer.
    Also, I deleted the EGR which I know will cause it to run more richly, but I wouldnt think it could cause this much trouble.

    My thoughts on this and the order I plan on checking things, let me know if im on the right track or not.
    -because of the obvious smell of fuel and the fact the computer is trying to advance the timing so much. its running extremely rich
    -I will start with MAF checking voltages and cleaning the MAF as it was a junkyard pick and could be bad. plus its the only thing that seems to create change plugged in or not.
    -then I will make an EGR jumper to show as closed to the computer. found a diagram online on how to make one with a few resistors.
    -then check all other sensors for voltage output and resistance (I read about a guy with an F-150 who had a fouled temp sensor and he said the signal it was returning to the ECU was telling it that it was -40 degrees outside and it was dumping fuel (this seems highly unlikely)
    -I think that the complete gutlessness of the car is being cause by compounding factors. One, its running soo rich its getting crappy combustion; and two, the computer is F-ing with the timing so much because of the rich condition that its completely screwing up any chance of power.
    -I have already checked for vacuum leaks and made sure to plug all of the no longer needed hoses, but if I can get it to idle reliably for a good period of time I will check the vacuum with a gauge.
    -Multiple times already I have checked and double checked that I have the New HO firing order wired up, I will inevitably recheck through out this process.
    -I have ordered a code reader, should arrive monday. then i will check for codes.

    Thanks for the help! this stuff is fun, but confusing.
    Last edited by andrew_mccaffrey; 12-06-2014 at 06:23 AM. Reason: bad pic upload, now fixed
    Andrew

  5. #45
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    +1 bad maf or wiring backwards.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
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    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  6. #46
    Member andrew_mccaffrey's Avatar
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    The MAP sensor vacuum hose just needs to be removed right? not plugged...?
    Andrew

  7. #47
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    correct. Use as a barometer sensor instead of MAP (same part, same wiring).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  8. #48
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    There are actually specific baro sensors. Its a MAP without a tit for a vacuum hose. Or you do it cheap and just leave the hose off. I'm rocking an original 1986 MAP as a BARO on my car.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #49
    I post a lot... turbo2256b's Avatar
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    Did you mean 19# injectors or 17s. The injectors have to be the ones the ECM was programed for. Injectors have different spec's. The only way to swap in different sizes is to program the computer differently. Mass air setups the MAF can be ofset to inable the use of injectors to make them compatable but dosent realy work right so dont go that route.
    nOT FOR SURE EXACTLY WHAT PARTS YOU HAVE USED but a 75mm TB is realy too big. Engine mods that would realy work best with a 75mm TB the fuel lines would have to be changed from the tank and fuel rails upgraded. A 75mm TB wont match up with a 75mm MAF.

    If the cam you used is that .525 lift mentioned it will wack out your injector firing timing. Takes a lot of calculations and programing of the computers in your ECM its related to intake valve closing, some are figured based on intake opening
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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