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Replacing upper ball joints - what should I get?

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    Replacing upper ball joints - what should I get?

    The time has come, getting sick of the rattles lol. Going to replace upper joints before winter. My question is, what's a good brand to get? Something reliable and serviceable i.e. greaseable?

    #2
    I'd say Moog if you can get them with the zerk fittings.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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      #3
      Moog or Raybestos


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        +1 on Moog.
        You can use the RockAuto discount code and save some cash.


        -ryan s.
        08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
        03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
        97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
        94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
        73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
        12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
        Originally posted by pantera77
        Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

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          #5
          I used Moog on my box and they seem to be pretty good. I would think the aero/whale ones would be similar.

          '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

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            #6
            Yes, MOOG, Raybestos (prof grade), But don't get ACDelco, they suck!
            "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

            -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
            -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
            -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
            -2011 Subaru Outback

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              #7
              Will check up reviews on the moog and raybestos. Thanks alot everyone? How easy/hard is replacment....it looks pretty straight forward but what are, if any problems I may run into?

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                #8
                Raybestos ball joints are made by Mckay Norris and are standard duty, McKay Norris also makes heavy duty line Raybestos dont handle but either are the best out there. purcase mine through these guys as well as all my brake and suspension parts.

                http://www.rokbrothers.com/police_fleets.php
                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                  #9
                  I'm going to be going with the Raybestos standard grade for the time being. #500-1088B. I don't beat my merc too hard so I can save some more dough for a few other things lol. Thanks everyone for your help!

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by NMerenda View Post
                    Will check up reviews on the moog and raybestos. Thanks alot everyone? How easy/hard is replacment....it looks pretty straight forward but what are, if any problems I may run into?
                    If you're at the point of needing upper ball joints, you should give some thought to all the other suspension and steering joints, and bushings too. If they're all original, I think it would be best to replace everything at the same time if you can manage it. They would all pretty much reach the end of their lifespan around the same time. Also, you need an alignment after certain things, and you'd end up needing multiple alignments if you did things on a piecemeal basis.

                    I did the various joints and bushings on my car some months ago and put some links covering my experiences in the following thread:

                    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ng-Feels-Loose

                    At the least, you should consider replacing the entire upper control arms since the bushings are probably done if the joints are.

                    As I recall, you have a 2002 Grand Marquis, which I believe still has the same setup as my 2000 Grand Marquis. If you replace the entire upper control arms, you have to take the fender liners out to get the rearward bolts out. If you manage that, you can turn those bolts around when you put them back so you won't have this problem again.

                    As for the upper ball joints specifically, I had a heck of time getting the spindle bolts out. It took a lot of whacks with a mini-sledge hammer to get them out. Fortunately, I don't think I bent anything. If I had to do it again, I would hold something against the backside of the spindle while I'm using the hammer in order to reduce the possibility of bending the spindle.

                    The only other thing I can think of at the moment is to mark the alignment cams so you can put them back in the same position to ensure the alignment ends up close to what it was. This will allow you to drive to an alignment shop without much fuss.
                    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 10-20-2014, 02:28 PM.

                    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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                      #11
                      The uppers are pretty easy to replace. Other than needing a pickle fork to get the old joint out of the knuckle... a socket set of size will work fine. Mark the position of the nuts in relation to the bolts they are on... those are alignment nuts as well. You might need an alignment after replacing those anyhow depending on a lot of factors. Also, you may need to replace more than just the uppers as stated above.

                      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                      Originally posted by dmccaig
                      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                        #12
                        I just had a trusted mechanic give everything a look over. He said all the bushing and all other steering components look fine, and showed me that it was just the upper ball joints that needed replacement. I had planned on an alignment anyway, but figured I'd wait until I replace the ball joints.

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                          #13
                          Mileage would be a big factor. How many miles you got on it?

                          2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                          mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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                            #14
                            I threw Moogs in my '86 GM back in '05 - they've got about 140k miles on them. Still going strong, except had a premature failure of the passenger side lower last year. Probably failed to clean the grease fitting ...
                            sigpic

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                              #15
                              I put McQuay-Norris parts on my car years ago and have had no problems with them.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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