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    Rear Main Seal

    Going to replace my rear main seal in my 93 302 HO. It's not the valve covers, upper intake gaskets, or oil pan gasket, I made sure of it, and it's a fairly large leak, a drip every minute or two after it is run for 10 minutes or so.

    Seems fairly straight forward, remove driveshaft, remove transmission (t5 in this case) Remove old seal, reassemble in reverse.

    Any pointers or recommended brands? Was thinking the teflon fel-pro.

    I've read a lot of people who have replaced them and had them leak a short time afterwards (mustang owners). That would not be ideal, especially considering the engine is sealed up pretty well.

    t5 has some leaks coming from...somewhere, going to replace those seals as well since i'll have it out.
    Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 12-24-2014, 04:18 PM.
    -Phil

    sigpic

    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

    #2
    the big trick is making sure you do not scratch the crankshaft, and making sure the crank doesn't have a groove in it. If its worn where the seal is, you'll need one of those repair sleeve things and the matching seal. Otherwise there isn't much to it, other than it being physically a pain in the ass to get at. A pick or a screw into the seal will usually get it yanked, just watch where you aim it. If you can come up with a piece of PVC pipe of the right size, it does quite nicely as a driving tool to get it in there square.

    A leak that bad makes me suspect either the seal was put in wrong, or the crank is scratched.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      The way I did it (Engine on the stand, so it would probably be a pain in the ass in your case) was to take the oil pan off and loosen the rear main cap. The seal comes out super easy and goes in just as easy. Of course in your case you'd have to lift the engine and get the pan out, and have a torque wrench and all that shit too. I've also heard (not sure if it's true or not) that sometimes a leak from the rear of seal isn't a leak from the seal at all. Sometimes the oil will seep through the flexplate bolts if the holes are drilled too deep. Like I said, not sure if it's true or not. I made sure to use locktite on mine as extra precaution.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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        #4
        I have NEVER seen a rear main seal leak on 88-93 HO engine... not saying it can't happen, just saying its very unlikely.

        From my experience, its more likely the rear intake manifold gasket, or the PCV screen on the back of the intake is clogged and PCV valve is popping out and dumping oil on the top of the transmission bell housing.
        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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          #5
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=IZBI-0Vz9OY

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 88grandmarq View Post
            I have NEVER seen a rear main seal leak on 88-93 HO engine... not saying it can't happen, just saying its very unlikely.

            From my experience, its more likely the rear intake manifold gasket, or the PCV screen on the back of the intake is clogged and PCV valve is popping out and dumping oil on the top of the transmission bell housing.
            +1. My rear lower Intake gasket was puking oil down the bell housing. Cork seal shifted during install years ago for the owner. Nice and dry now . The Pcv screen on my 91 also was choked full and was plugged. Causing more oil run off.
            -Nick M.
            Columbia, SC

            66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
            03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

            Comment


              #7
              I would agree that its quite rare, but if someone was into it, its not impossible they screwed the seal up. Just make sure it is actually the seal before you get into it.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Most of my cars have had leaking rear mains. Easy to do when the engines on a stand, loosen the rear cap and replace. In the car is a bit harder. The rear main was leaking on my 89 so when I did the 5sp swap I changed it out. Getting the old one out with out touching the crank is the hardest part. I must have put a small tear in the new seal because it still had a very slow drip. I pulled it out and did it gain using the proper install tool and it was fine ever since, well at least until that engine killed itself. Good thing with the t5 is you can bolt the flywheel on, put the bellhousing back on, throw the starter on, and let the engine run for a while and check for leaks.
                2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
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                2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                Comment


                  #9
                  IIRC I used a "sneaky pete" tool by Lisle, engine in the car, on my lopo engine back in 2000. I bought the wagon due to the leaky seal.
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
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                  Comment


                    #10
                    Wow, lots of responses!

                    Rellik- that's a great video, it's a good point to put sealant on the flywheel bolts! I have the trans and everything related out. Everything down there is covered in oil so it's hard to see exactly where it's coming from. May try to run it to see, but it doesn't matter since i'm going to replace the rear main and oil pan gasket as well. I'll make sure it isn't leaking by running it after everything is together.

                    May i say that the previous owner was a friggin idiot...so many mistakes and shortcuts, that are all getting fixed!
                    -Phil

                    sigpic

                    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Doesn't it happen more often than not that we are made to suffer for a PO's fuck ups!!!


                      "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                      "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                      "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If there was previous bad work, look real close at the crankshaft for damage before you stick the new seal in. Possible they did something when driving in the pilot bearing or something if a tool slipped.


                        There is a pilot bearing in there, right ? If not, you'll fuck up the input shaft on that trans in a major way.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm slightly unsure as to the condition, there are some rings, so It's getting the repair sleeve. It has a pilot bearing, it fell out, so I need to figure out how it goes back in. Also a random washer appeared when i took the clutch assy out...have to find out where that goes...
                          -Phil

                          sigpic

                          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                          Comment


                            #14
                            pilot bearing should normally press into the end of the crankshaft. I believe those are just a bronze bushing, so its possible the bearing itself is worn on the outer diameter if it wasn't put in right or something. If its not, probably a few dimples with a center punch to raise some metal to keep it in place would do the trick.


                            Random washer ? WTF?
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              It's an actual bearing with needle type bearings inside, I'll buy a new one. IDK where the washer came from "WTF" is exactly what I said.... I don't see it in any diagrams. Also some earlier ones show springs for the fork while other's do not, I don't think this has any such springs in there. I'm debating whether or not to replace the throwout bearing, it's in OK shape, however the quality is questionable, I don't like throwing money out either.
                              -Phil

                              sigpic

                              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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