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Misfire (part 2)

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    Misfire (part 2)

    Hey all, for those of you that didn't know, I decided to buy a new car last month to replace the Townie as my daily driver. I'm keeping the Lincoln at home and on the insurance plan. Since I'll be driving it once or twice a month, I'll need to keep it in roadworthy condition.

    Before I left to go back to school, I put a new timing chain on the Lincoln. A few coolant leaks later (loose hoses) the car ran fine and I drove it for about 30 miles. Before I did the timing chain, it had a pretty bad misfire that would get bad to the point where the car could not accelerate. Parts I replaced include: fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, ignition coil, TPS (twice), coolant temp sensor, and a couple of the vacuum lines. I also reset the timing to the correct setting and pulled the hose to the MAP sensor, so I know that the sensor is good.

    When I took off the timing cover I noticed that the chain was pretty loose, so it's probably a good thing that I changed it. After changing the chain, the misfire seemed to go away. But after driving for 10 minutes, it came back and it was pretty bad. I had a hard time getting the car to accelerate and the whole car was shaking at stoplights. It felt like I was driving my sister's 4cyl Dodge Stratus (lol). It felt like really bad transmission shudder, but I know with an AOD that's probably not the issue. It's almost as if it's temperature related since it happens after the car has warmed up. I also recall it happening when I'm slowing down when approaching a red light, then the light turns green and I accelerate from 20 mph, and then the misfire begins. It's happened that way at least twice.

    As far as codes, I do have a code for one of the air injection sensors (code 44 or 74, I don't remember) and since it's a fairly new code, I'm thinking that could be causing the misfire.

    Now I don't plan on dumping money into this car, but I was wondering if there is anything I might have missed and could check next time I go home. Any thoughts? I'll at least take a look at it again and drive it around some more.
    Last edited by L1011tristar17; 01-24-2015, 10:42 PM.

    1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
    2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
    2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

    #2
    distributor ignition module is a common failure point.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

    Comment


      #3
      Ever replace the pickup in the distributor? They can die like this.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by jaywish View Post
        distributor ignition module is a common failure point.
        Is this the same as the TFI module? I had the TFI replaced about three years ago but I guess it could go bad again.


        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        Ever replace the pickup in the distributor? They can die like this.
        How do I replace the pickup? Does it involve disassembling the distributor?

        1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
        2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
        2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

        Comment


          #5
          I would make certain the TFI is a Motorcraft and that the dizzy area it mounts to is clean (alcohol on a rag works well). Then use thermal paste on the TFI and mount it. Never replaced a pickup to interested in a response.


          "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

          "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

          "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by L1011tristar17 View Post
            Is this the same as the TFI module? I had the TFI replaced about three years ago but I guess it could go bad again.


            yes.

            How do I replace the pickup? Does it involve disassembling the distributor?

            yes.

            distributor comes out, drive the pin out of the gear, and press the gear off. Once the gear is off, the shaft slides out and you can get at the inners. Putting it back together is harder since you have to get the gear lined up on the shaft so the roll pin works. If you don't have a press, I'd suggest swapping it for a reman distributor.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              I was lucky and replaced my PIP sensor from the top in the 91 GM. I took out the two screws to the cover wheel that turns, the screw size is the same as the screws that hold the TFI module to the distributor. I removed the advance lever and the PIP came out. This was done twice in a four month period the same way, when the first replacement failed. Make sure you get Motorcraft parts if you can.
              NAPA has the TFI screw wrench for under $5.00.
              Make sure you mark the distributor. You will have to turn the distributor to get to the TFI module screws, especially the back one.
              I would try this method before removing the distributor. IMO
              90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
              90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
              91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
              70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

              Comment


                #8
                Wonder which company produces the best (or better) reman dizzys? I see A-1 Cardone all over the place but have heard some bad things about them. Not sure who to believe???


                "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by stinkydogfilms View Post
                  I was lucky and replaced my PIP sensor from the top in the 91 GM. I took out the two screws to the cover wheel that turns, the screw size is the same as the screws that hold the TFI module to the distributor. I removed the advance lever and the PIP came out. This was done twice in a four month period the same way, when the first replacement failed. Make sure you get Motorcraft parts if you can.
                  NAPA has the TFI screw wrench for under $5.00.
                  Make sure you mark the distributor. You will have to turn the distributor to get to the TFI module screws, especially the back one.
                  I would try this method before removing the distributor. IMO

                  hmm, I'll have to try that sometime. Sure would beat the snot out of pulling the distributor apart.


                  If you do remove the reluctor wheel, make sure it goes back on the same way it came off. Not sure if there is a locator pin or something, but the fins are not all the same. There is an odd shaped finger for #1, which the ECM uses to identify when #1 fires to sequence the injectors properly.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

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