1978 Grand Marquis

[DerekTheGreat]

Yeah, looking good. Those the original ball joints? Boot looks too good for that to be true.

[Grand1]

Replaced awhile back. Will say I have to change to monotube KYB absorbers, the Excel KYB just not cutting it.

Anyway, more body stuff.
Degreasing, cleaning scraping, underneath back bumper end. Hit with rust converter. Being nice to my fenders. Going to wait to apply the Bondo rubberized spray.

[gadget73]

If you don't have hard water is distilled a big deal? How about Smart Water for our babies?

Well water with iron and maganese problems here. After the softener sometimes its kind of salty, depending on what the system is doing. It used to be yellow and stinky even after treatment, new well at least gives me clear water and ice cubes that don't make drinks taste bad. For the $1 a gallon distilled costs, I just don't want to deal with any possible problems.

[Grand1]

Thanks for the coolant knowledge.
Got a question regarding my body work. I sprayed rust reformer, and hit some unrusted spots (light coat). Which may or may not adhere to the unrusted portions. Now, if I start the rubberized undercoating, would that cause the unrusted portions to be susceptible to rust?

[Tiggie]

What brand of rust reformer?

If it’s one that turns the rust darker, almost wet looking, I’d say you might have an issue since it’s more of a chemical converter only and requires rust to work.

If it’s one that looks like a coat of primer when finished, you’re likely okay since it’s similar to a protective coating.

It never hurts to call the manufacturer to be sure since there are several approaches to rust prevention/protection/conversion.

Body work guys have told me that rust removal is the only option if you really want to be rid of rust. They are a bit picky but rightfully whe talking about thousands of dollars of paint job on top.

[Grand1]

Looks like I may have an issue, damn.
It was Rustolem Rust Renovator. I used a total of 1.5 cans on 2/5 length of my barge. (Pics above) I did spray it at the big rust spots, but also hit some unrusted metal areas as well. Should just strip it?

[Tiggie]

This stuff? https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...rust-reformer/

I have used it before as primer and it works fine on non rusted metal. It’s sprays black. You are good to go. If in doubt, scuff a bit with 180ish grit. If it sands, you are good. If it peels (after the full drying time on the label), that’s a bad sign.

I used some other stuff before that was clear going on and turned dark brown or black. Those stayed gummy/didn’t cure on bare metal.

[Grand1]

Thanks alott Tiggie.
That's the stuff I used.
Done some research online and heard the merits and horror stories of rubberized undercoating. Some say get rust off, convert, then preventive sprays like Fluid Firm.....due to the undercoating sealing /letting in moisture after a rock hits.

What's your experience?

[Tiggie]

Good undercoat applied and actually sticking is good stuff. Problem is most people don’t clean and prep before and it seals in dirt or doesn’t stick and starts peeling to create those moisture pockets. You seem to have it prepped pretty well.

[Grand1]

Found in my glove compartment, looks like previous owner had some questions too, lol


Looks like the undercarriage was proofed back in the day "TUFF-KOTE DINOL"

[VicCrownVic]

The Scab had the same rust proofing applied by the original owner. Although my car had some serious rust/rot issues.

[DerekTheGreat]

Yeah, what Tig said about surface prep is right on. Needs to be clean to promote good adhesion. I would not suggest rubberized undercoatings as those trap moisture and all that'll do is promote rot holes. De rust, clean, paint and then spray Krown or Fluid film on it annually. Town Car of mine gets Krowned annually and is good & oily underneath. No rust or rot.

[Grand1]

There are places where degreaser and a flat head won't scrape the crud out. So I am cleaning, wire brushing, and hitting the rust with converter where I can. Then going to Fluid Firm. Don't want to bury a potential rust bomb.

Now to take off this old Ford blue spray paint, over the rust that was forming. Pure idiocy whomever did it.

[Grand1]

Grinded out the rust with a shitty Harbor Freight sander...removed price of trim. Gonna try and feather a little more. My rear fender is at Paint Shop for color duplication. $20.00 for a pint.

[Grand1]

Fender getting better, can't make them look to good to much better/ clash with my "patina"ala vintage look. Any tips for painting over Rust Reformer(touchup).? Got the paint