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Thread: 1978 Grand Marquis

  1. #121
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yeah experience certainly helps make the next go around that much easier and smoother.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  2. #122
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Was looking at the lonely head under my hood and said what the hell, took off AC compressor, brackets, power steering pump, lines, belts...I took off the other head.
    Glad I did, turns out there were two bent valves....brings the total to five. Along with a valve job...Getting some porting work done.... shit is not cheap on iron heads.
    Last edited by Grand1; 05-12-2018 at 08:07 AM.

  3. #123
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I wonder if you should have just saved the money, let the car sit and buy the aftermarket heads when you had the coin saved up. That's what I did with my Firebird. Valve guides/stemseals were bad and while it would've been cheaper to refurb them, I let the car sit for 2 or 3 years until I had the coin to put aluminum Trick Flow heads on it. Woke that turd right up.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  4. #124
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Well I got a complete valve job (5 we're toast, the guides were to restictive as well). And only some exhaust ( "bowl work") porting. Cost me $375, I was gonna go for a full ports but didn't (your right about saving the coin) Didn't get the intake porting. So I didn't she'll out too much. This guy just opened a machine shop in Howell, it's called Adams engines. Worked for machine shops for 30 years and this is what he does in retirement. I walked in and started drooling Lunati cranks, Boss 5.0 blocks, scat pistons laying every where, ya know, the stuff of heaven.
    Last edited by Grand1; 05-14-2018 at 05:11 PM.

  5. #125
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Well, when you get 'er together post videos, would be cool to see the barge again.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  6. #126
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    For sure dude, wanna see what your ride is up too!

  7. #127
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    My Town Car?
    Collecting dust with the occasional cleaning. Last time I drove it was early February but piled on over 3,000 miles as it took us to Arizona and back. Good times. Now needs heater core.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  8. #128
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Heads are on, intake and the rest tomorrow. Permatorque gaskets, cleaned and oiled bolts, 146 ft lbs of torque in increments per torque sequence.

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    Last edited by Grand1; 05-26-2018 at 08:25 PM.

  9. #129
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Last edited by Grand1; 05-26-2018 at 08:22 PM.

  10. #130
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    Soaked the lifters and rods in oil. Installed with rocker arms. Torqued to 25ftlbs.

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  11. #131
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    Deleted AC compressor, installed new belt, installed brackets, power steering, fan.

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  12. #132
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Deleted A/C compressor?
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  13. #133
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Yup, never got the conversion from r12 done, didn't work anyway. You want to get cool, stick your head out the window. Lol. One less pully, little more power?

    Intake is on, she fired up. Got some valvetrain chatter now
    Im tired. Get some pics up soon.

  14. #134
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Need some help, valvetrain chatter. New lifters and rods, non adjustable valve train. Rocker arms move not matter the torque (positive stop). Valve job combined with higher lift cam would equal new pushrod length? Currently at 8.55.

    Any comments would be appreciated!
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    Last edited by Grand1; 05-31-2018 at 07:31 PM.

  15. #135
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Did you check the lifter preload? If not, do that and that will tell us if you need different pushrods. You can ballpark it without the dial gauge though. It should hit zero lash somewhere about 1/2 to 1 1/4 turns before it hits torque. Thats with the valve shut. Looks like you're nowhere close to that. Different valve stem length, different base circle on the cam, different head gasket thickness, non-original heads, decking the block, decking the heads, all of that can require different length pushrods.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #136
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Thanks Gadget, will do. Got an adjustable pushrod as well.

  17. #137
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah the aftermarket adjustable rods don't measure in a particularly easy way. The Ford ones you can just stick in a caliper and they read what the book says they measure. The aftermarket ones are done from the centerline of the spherical end, and since the end isn't completely round you'd need to do some measurements and calculations to figure out what they call it vs what you measure. Or you buy the tool they sell, use it per the instructions and that will tell you what to order. I made my own adjustable pushrod and when I gave them my measurements I got the whole explanation of why I was supposed to buy their tool.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #138
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    I have 8.55 pushrods now ...this link says 8.62 is what I need (bought two from rockauto). Got an adjustable pushrod as well, jumping in tomorrow.

    https://books.google.com/books?id=te...%20460&f=false

  19. #139
    Member Grand1's Avatar
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    Damn, you are right about the adjustable pushrods, Gadget (I purchased it before your last post) Need to get a digital caliper to measure. Seems like the aftermarket pushrod industry has their own nitch for making money.

    Any way, I have read alot and a little confused, the loose rockerarm above is on the exhaust. Seems to be a standard thing with Dove C heads that the exhaust needs a longer pushrod. Got zero lash with adjusting the pushrod up. The thing is with preload, that hydro lifter has completely bleed out.(I can carefully depress the pushrod back) So how I measure preload? Add the tolerance to my pushrod length?

    I have also read that valve jobs can definitely change valvetrain geometry....took another look at my old lifters, no gashes, scrapes, or petri dish indentations...no metal in oil filter, so I am assuming the cam didn't wipe.

  20. #140
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Well, the one from Comp doesn't require a caliper really. Fully collapsed its some length, and each turn increases the length by a particular amount. The idea is you count the turns and that tells you how long a pushrod you're supposed to order. I don't know what increments they sell rods for in your style, but on the 302 its in .050 length steps.

    If you measure the pushrod where you hit zero lash and add whatever your preload amount is, that ought to be correct. You may need to round to the nearest available size that they actually make that still lands in the OK range.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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