Making a box not handle like a box..

[JeffBoudah]

Found the mechanical properties of this epoxy http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...%20105_206.pdf I also have a microfiber filler I can add that would thicken and strengthen even more.

The epoxy would crack once dry and twisted. Woldnt necessarily loose bond to the metal except in dirty areas.

This aint JB weld we're talking here.

[turbo2256b]

I use these for upper shock mounts pin end at top to eye end in the rear. Also use a SS bolt and replacing rear shock much easier next time.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...oview=SKU&ar=1

[Mr Bean]

I would sooner fill it with polyurethane than epoxy.

[turbo2256b]

Found the mechanical properties of this epoxy http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...%20105_206.pdf I also have a microfiber filler I can add that would thicken and strengthen even more.



This aint JB weld we're talking here.

Thinking microfiber weakens the mix if I REMEMBER CORRECTLY from reinforcing some of my fiberglass boats in the past. Specs dont list anything about twisting modulus which is what sway bars do.

Myself would just make up some 3 piece sway bars such as used in NASCAR and sports car racing.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

I use these for upper shock mounts pin end at top to eye end in the rear. Also use a SS bolt and replacing rear shock much easier next time.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...oview=SKU&ar=1

If anyone feels industrious, Ford trucks with I-beams and TTB 4x4 have some quite nice brackets bolted to the radius arms that will serve the same function as the QA1 brackets but are much stronger. Downside is they need two holes instead of just the existing one, and they are around 3-4" long so fitment may probably be somewhat of an issue. Should have one or two laying around, next time I get to crawl under a Panther I'll test fit them.

[P72Ford]

Speak in all the engineering riddles you like, as i am one too. The bar has been powdercoated, so, run through an oven hot enough to burn off any contaminates inside. It's as prepped as one can get it. Regardless of it's modulus or % elongation, it would essentially act as a second internal bar, being stiffer than the air it replaced. Even if it were not mechanically adhered to the inside of bar itself, it would still stiffen since the epoxy plug would not just be a straight cylinder, it wraps around to the ends of the arm.

This is not as laborious of a task as you guys are making this out to be. Mix the epoxy, fill a large syringe, pump it in, repeat till full, plug it, let it cure. If there's no appreciable difference, so be it. I've wasted more time on much less productive things on this project...

A powdercoat oven runs at 400F... Just saying.

I will be interested to see if you note an improvement. Be interesting to know how much wind up one of these bars actually experiences under a thorough thrashing. It may not be that significant, and over a long enough distance that the epoxy may not leave the elastic zone.

[Bobcat]

Alright so I don't think the epoxy idea is going anywhere..

Frame stiffening, what'd you think? I've seen the wagon braces that go from the frame to the K member.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Lincolns got those too, it's not just a wagon thing. The wagon-only thing are the braces from the rad-support to the fenders. Both of these are direct bolt-ons to a CV or GMQ sedan, Lincolns can use the rad support braces too but there are no threaded holes in the fenders for them you gotta drill and weld in the nuts yourself.

Also Lincolns have crossmembers to tie the very front and the very rear of the frame rails, sedan CVs and GMQs lack that. IIRC station wagons have the rear crossmember but not the front. Hacking those off a Lincoln is possible, but it may be just easier to fab something up yourself.

[pantera77]

I think all 90+ had the front frame ties, both my 91's have had them. I think aero ones will fit too, they look identical and the frames are the same.

PI boxes also had the front and rear crossmembers, along with all 92+'s.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Oh, alright, good to know. I somehow always end up with '89 and older to work on... Cutting those crossmembers in junkyard conditions will probably be a bear tho, may be easier to just chop the frame rails right behind the crossmember and then once at home give them the 4.5" high-speed wheel treatment.

[gadget73]

I've actually wondered if the X braces that Cadillac used on the rad support would be of any use. Probably wouldn't hurt any to try at least.

Vics have not much tying the frame ends together either. A trailer hitch in back will do it, but they could probably benefit a bit from something more solid behind the front bumper shock mounts. Towncars got a brace there.

I've also sort of wondered if an X brace from A pillar area to C pillar area, crossing at the trans mount region would do something.

Panhard bar to locate the rear would be a good thing too.

All this stuff assuming the basics are already in good shape, body mounts good, suspension bushings good, etc.

[87gtVIC]

I am drawing a blank on these cross members you speak of. Any pictures to job the memory/enlighten me?

I have the rad support to fender braces, k-member to frame braces as well as a large Curt trailer hitch. I am interested in more stock pieces to pop on.

[pantera77]

See the bar that runs along the front here between the two rails? This is an 03+, but the principles the same. You can also just see the bar on the rear.



Compare that to a regular GM/CV, which is open at both ends.





All 92+ have the front are rear bars, along with police boxes (and Lincolns). There welded on, but wouldn't be that hard to transplant.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Yep, welding the crossmembers is easy enough, especially if the front clip is off. Now getting them from a donor frame section to weldable condition for the recipient, well, that can be fun.

I've actually thought about the X-brace, wouldn't be too hard to do that. Maybe not reaching all the way back to the C-pillars tho, that kinda depends on position of mufflers as most of them tend to hand slightly below the frame rails lower edge and that would interfere with the X-brace. I heard thru the grapevine that Gadget wants to volunteer as a guinea pig for a Panhard bar, maybe add said X-brace while at it?

[DuceAnAHalf]

If you are going to weld a crossmember in, it would be better to get some 1.5" roll bar material and weld that in. The straight tubing is not expensive, and you don't have to take the front end off, cut the piece off, then weld it in.