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Thread: 1988 Lincoln Town Car

  1. #221

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    Hmm true I forgot the po had an 88, my bad.


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  2. #222
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nfldfordltd View Post
    Still idles like shit. I posted a video on facebook of it a little while ago:
    https://www.facebook.com/josh.sincla...2868632735354/
    No codes related to how it would run (ie MAP, TPS, O2, etc.)
    Also likes to really bog, stumble and backfire under load at low RPM under WOT (stop to 25 MPH).

    So yesterday I did the following things to try and sort it out:
    Changed the plugs for new Autolite Copper plugs
    Changed the TFI module
    Changed the ignition coil
    Changed the MAP sensor (with a used one I had laying about)
    Checked TPS voltage. About .9v at idle position, just over 4v at WOT. New TPS and MAP ordered just for the hell of it.
    Switched O2 sensor connectors from side to side
    Filled up with premium gas (gas that was in the car was what sat in the tank all winter)

    Result was a *slightly* smoother idle, but now it runs like absolute garbage under part throttle while driving it. Feels like the plug wires have been switched around and it's wired wrong. Constantly bucking, misfiring and backfiring. It's been hard on gas since the HO conversion, which is also when it started running bad. Old engine was an environmental disaster with the oil leaks, it rattled and clattered while cold but ran silky smooth and still pulled hard on the bottom end, and was good on gas. New setup is the opposite; it idles without knocking, pulls hard at speed, bogs and runs like shit at idle and down low, burns gas like a champ, and does not use any oil.
    During the process of switching the O2 connectors, I broke the orange ground wire off the back of the intake manifold. But, the driveability problems I described were like it both before and after the ground wire got broken.

    93 truck engine block with E7 heads
    Original upper intake manifold, EGR spacer bored out to 58mm to match the 86 Mustang TB that has been reversed for LH intake panther setup.
    IAC is new within last 5 years, cleaned annually (it's never dirty when removed, entire intake system is clean since I fixed the coolant leak)
    New 19 lb fuel injectors. Fuel pressure and flow OK
    New 155 lph BBK fuel pump
    86 Mustang 5.0 HO camshaft
    All new engine internals. Valvetrain new except for valves and valve springs
    ECM is a Lincoln Mark VII part, unsure of exact year or three-digit ID code. Cruise control still works
    EGR and all related components deleted. No EGR codes from reader
    Cats cleaned out, smog pump and all related components are removed
    Lincoln Logs for headers
    NTK O2 sensors <2 years old
    New VSS

    Any ideas? I'm starting to lose my patience with this...."do an HO conversion" they said, "it will be fun" they said...nothing but headaches since I did it. Can't get it to run right now for about two years.

    I understand the HO is going to be a dog on the bottom end off the line, especially with my 3.08 gears due to the cam's higher revving tendencies than the original lopo unit. But that shouldn't include backfiring and abysmal fuel economy, rough idling, stalling, etc.

    Thanks in advance
    So I had a long night in the garage tonight.

    Pulled the O2 sensor wiring harness up from below, which was easy give the orange ground wire was broken off from yesterday's misadventures.

    I cut the heat resistant sleeves off the harness to find one of the wires was broken inside of it. I had tried switching the O2 plugins from side to side already, no difference was made to the way it ran. Broken wire on the other hand...

    So I fixed that wire, put the heat resistant sleeve back on the loom and double checked the EVTM to make sure I had the correct side plugged in to the O2 sensor. Reattached the orange ground wire and put that to bed. Good job.

    Started it up, took it for a drive to bring it to operating temperature and set the IAC/TPS. surging idle seemed slightly better but did it ever misfire and backfire badly.

    Took out each plug one by one and found the #3 plug's electrode was smashed into the plug itself. The I remembered that I dropped it when I was changing the plugs over the weekend. Pried it apart and set the gap. Double checked the tightness of the plug wires and took it for a spin.

    OMG! It ran the best it ever did since I did the HO conversion! Pulled hard and ran smooth as could be!

    Stopped at the grocery store on the way home, picked up a couple things. Got home and proceeded to change the oil after sitting all winter and driving the shit out of it for the past few days....

    After the oil was changed, I turned the key and got a definitive "I'm not going to start for you now" click. Click, Click click click. Not a gig.

    Three solenoids, two hours and one very upset hombre later, I found the problem. The starter cable terminal was loose on the starter. No big deal, just tighten it up, right?

    Wrong.

    It just spun around in circles. Stripped like the girls at The Brass Rail.

    I then found a small nut and bolt combo that almost worked to tighten up the loose cable. I'm not happy with how not completely snug it is, but at least it started for me again.

    Wouldn't care so much except I only just took it out of winter storage not so long ago and I have to go on a 3800 km (2400 mile) trip in it this coming weekend.

    This is starting to smell like an episode of Roadkill.....

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #223
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    which wire colors are on what side of your O2 harness?

    so basically running messed up because of a bum plug? Yeah, it happens. Under all that electronic control its still an engine designed in the 1950s.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #224
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    which wire colors are on what side of your O2 harness?

    so basically running messed up because of a bum plug? Yeah, it happens. Under all that electronic control its still an engine designed in the 1950s.
    I think the LH O2 sensor has a dark blue and yellow wire to it. Don't recall the RH one.

    Right? I mean, what are the odds of dropping it fair on the electrode and not noticing it prior to installation?

    Ugh. I just hope it's all cured for a few weeks until I can get all my junk in one place again...the joys of moving.

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #225
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    ...so basically running messed up because of a bum plug? Yeah, it happens. Under all that electronic control its still an engine designed in the 1950s.
    That to me is the beauty of stuff like this and mainly why I run them daily.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  6. #226
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Cool beans. Burn some rubber.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  7. #227
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Heater core #5 died yesterday. It's not exploded but a dribble is leaking out of the plenum and steaming the windshield enough to annoy me.
    Rock Auto only has cheap cores in stock now, really conflicted about what to do. Tempted to try one of these:

    http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/He...578aee373c0d8f

    Has any of ye ever tried these in the past? If so, is it worth the money?

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #228
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by nfldfordltd View Post
    Heater core #5 died yesterday. It's not exploded but a dribble is leaking out of the plenum and steaming the windshield enough to annoy me.
    Rock Auto only has cheap cores in stock now, really conflicted about what to do. Tempted to try one of these:

    http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/He...578aee373c0d8f

    Has any of ye ever tried these in the past? If so, is it worth the money?
    I lack the history of the other ones and their failure modes, so forgive me:

    I think that assuming "cheap ones are bad ones" is not the best approach. Also consider that RockAuto pricing will always be "cheap" because that's how they roll. I also think that buying a soldered brass/copper heater core (for incredible money) is a mistake, when it is an established fact that they don't last as long as aluminum ones. The caveat is aluminum ones are less friendly to some flushing chemicals and if you are the type to flush the system every couple years, you can quickly murder your new investment.

    I am also reasonably sure the one you linked will not fit. I believe that's the 90+ item with a common application data error which suggests it fits 89, but 89 uses the old one.

    Frequent heater core failure is probably more a symptom of a bigger systemic issue than it is an indicator of heater core quality, IMHO. You might have issues like electrolysis eating the core material away.
    Last edited by kishy; 06-05-2019 at 11:54 AM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  9. #229
    I post a lot...
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    Do you have a coolant pressure restrictor in place?
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
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  10. #230
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Check the voltage in the coolant. If you've got some electrical grounding problem, you may have electrolysis going on and that will dissolve the heater cores too.

    https://www.northernfactory.com/knowledge/electrolysis

    Normally the heater core and radiator are not connected to electrical ground on these, so make sure nothing has changed in that regard. Missing or crusty battery to body or engine to body grounds can cause you trouble though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #231
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    I lack the history of the other ones and their failure modes, so forgive me:

    I think that assuming "cheap ones are bad ones" is not the best approach. Also consider that RockAuto pricing will always be "cheap" because that's how they roll. I also think that buying a soldered brass/copper heater core (for incredible money) is a mistake, when it is an established fact that they don't last as long as aluminum ones. The caveat is aluminum ones are less friendly to some flushing chemicals and if you are the type to flush the system every couple years, you can quickly murder your new investment.

    I am also reasonably sure the one you linked will not fit. I believe that's the 90+ item with a common application data error which suggests it fits 89, but 89 uses the old one.

    Frequent heater core failure is probably more a symptom of a bigger systemic issue than it is an indicator of heater core quality, IMHO. You might have issues like electrolysis eating the core material away.
    I actually had much better luck with brass cores vs aluminum ones. I have a theory now that the water I was mixing with the coolant was suspect...I was doing 50/50 concentrated and tap water. The tap water where I used to live is famous for corroding and eating hot water tanks in as little as two years.
    Once I get settled in from the move, I'm going to flush and fill again and add a ground strap from the core itself to the firewall.
    If that doesn't work, I dunno...the heater box is getting destroyed from being removed and replaced so much. Next time I'm going to need a box as well as a core.

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #232
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    The shocks are getting worn out again in my Lincoln. Time for a new set methinks.
    Current suspension setup is fairly new stock front springs and stock front sway bar.
    Rear has used springs from a 1991 police Ford plus regular sway bar.
    Running P225/75/R15 tires all around with 32 psi as per police sedan specs.
    The Gabriel shocks that I put in back in 2007 weren't really very good from day one, I didn't like the ride as they tended to flutter after going over a bump.
    Anyone got suggestions as to what they think is the best shock to go with for my setup? I live in a place where the roads aren't the best, rutted pavement, frost heave and potholes are pretty normal.
    Might get a set for the OBS same time to save on shipping, the truck seems to be always in need of shocks. No matter what I get, it still bounces a lot, but with new shocks it bounces more softly than with old or cheap shocks. Hauling heavy loads isn't a huge concern, it's mainly my winter beater, occasional dump run truck.
    Thanks in advance.

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #233
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    For the front I have KYB 344081 on both of my cars with original springs and stock sway bar. I like them but they might not be soft enough for some people. They're listed for Police and Taxi under CV/MGM on Rockauto, but not listed at all for '88 TC.
    For the rear, get some air shocks. I prefer the Gabriel HiJackers 49205 in The Ice Car over the Monroe Max-Air MA815 in The Scab. Mine are manual fill, but I wouldn't mind putting a stock system in with these shocks. With the air shocks you can run them at different air pressure depending on how you want them to ride. I tend to ride at the higher end of the pressure range, but running lower would soften them up quite a bit.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  14. #234
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Distilled water is your friend. Its about a dollar a gallon at the store here. Any pharmacy or Walmart has it. My well water used to be absolutely horrid. It rotted the lead out of the original copper pipes. I wasn't about to put that in my engine. New well is not bad, but for how cheap distilled is, I'm not interested in risking it. I've even been known to buy 50/50 premix if I can get it for the same total price per gallon as making it myself. There is a surplus store in this area that sometimes has it for that price.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #235
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    For the front I have KYB 344081 on both of my cars with original springs and stock sway bar. I like them but they might not be soft enough for some people. They're listed for Police and Taxi under CV/MGM on Rockauto, but not listed at all for '88 TC.
    For the rear, get some air shocks. I prefer the Gabriel HiJackers 49205 in The Ice Car over the Monroe Max-Air MA815 in The Scab. Mine are manual fill, but I wouldn't mind putting a stock system in with these shocks. With the air shocks you can run them at different air pressure depending on how you want them to ride. I tend to ride at the higher end of the pressure range, but running lower would soften them up quite a bit.
    I have KYBs in the rear of my truck currently, don't really like them. They are mediocre. I've been reading good reviews of the Monroe Magnums.
    I'm not terribly interested in setting my car up for air shocks, I don't haul enough weight really to justify that. Looking for a conventional shock that balances ride quality with handling. That's something that in my experience Gabriels don't do. I had a set of those in the truck and had to get rid of them quickly; it was all over the road, and bouncier than if the shocks were actually gone. The car handled them better, but still had that annoying little dance after going over a bump or washboard on pavement or gravel.
    What I really want is some NOS non-gas pressurized hydraulic-only shocks, but with a big piston to dampen better than a regular old fashioned shock. But that's made of unobtainium I'm sure.
    Might check out the police/taxi parts and see what's available, as the setup is more like a cop car than a Town Car.
    My fuel sending unit is still working like a champ

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #236
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Distilled water is your friend. Its about a dollar a gallon at the store here. Any pharmacy or Walmart has it. My well water used to be absolutely horrid. It rotted the lead out of the original copper pipes. I wasn't about to put that in my engine. New well is not bad, but for how cheap distilled is, I'm not interested in risking it. I've even been known to buy 50/50 premix if I can get it for the same total price per gallon as making it myself. There is a surplus store in this area that sometimes has it for that price.
    That's the plan, to replace what's there with distilled water or 50/50 premixed. That's why I did the concentrate/water 50/50 mix on my own, due to the price of the 50/50 premix.
    Now that I'm out of the sub-Arctic northern nether-region I can now get some stuff that's not stupidly expensive.

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #237
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Police interceptor Monroe Magnums ordered for the Lincoln now from Rock Auto. I hope they work out!

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 290,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, orange, 318,xxx+km. AKA "King Billy". Takes the beating like no vehicle should ever have to. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #238
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Nice. Hopefully a good report on the new shocks, at least for your sake. I'd be curious to hear if they're too harsh/stiff or not.

    I had a set of stock replacement Gabriel's on the front of my '89 years ago, and they were awful. I couldn't tell the difference between the completely dead originals and the brand new Gabriels. That car was parked not long after those shocks were installed, but I had no intention of reusing those shocks. However, the old Gabriel Hi-Jackers on the rear of that car and the new pair on The Ice Car I found to be great. You don't need to haul a ton-o weight to benefit from air shocks, just run lower pressure in them with less weight for a manual fill setup like mine, or adjust the sensor accordingly for the optional stock setup. I think the minimum pressure recommended for the Hi-Jakers is 25 PSI, I think I run around 150 PSI (haven't touched them in 3 years since I installed them), I think max is 225 (the max is much lower on the Monroes, like 125 PSI I think, I'm at 90-100 on those). Anyway, nothing wrong with not wanting to go the air route, it's just my preference and may not work for everyone.

    Good to hear that sending unit is still working. I know Kevin discovered some of the late build '88 TCs in the JYs seem to have gotten the newer sending unit like '89 TCs got, luckily yours needed the older unit that we sent you.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  19. #239
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Normally mixing your own is cheaper, but sometimes Ollie's (the discount store) has 50/50 that comes out to the same price per gallon, so I go the lazy route. I'm really not particular about who makes it or how, as long as its green and not mixed with river water I'm fine.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #240
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    If you're looking for a "like factory" ride, you can always go for a Sachs shock. Those are pretty cushy shocks.
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    1966 Ford Country Squire - 6.4L 390 2bbl/C6 - ~85K miles
    1989 Mercury Colony Park LS - 302 V8- 188K miles.
    1990 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 302 V8- 102K miles.
    2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series 3x - (42K, 79K-totaled, 222k)

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