1988 Lincoln Town Car

[nfldfordltd]

LTB a Fuel Gauge Sending Unit

Hey mangs, my fuel gauge is not very helpful these days.
It always used to go way up past full and stay there for a long time, probably until it was between 3/4 and 1/2 full, then drop fairly quickly after that. I was used to it as it was like it the whole time I owned the car.
Since I replaced the fuel tank back in May or June, the needle stays way up past full (vertical) until the tank is almost empty, then hunts around for a little while before settling down on empty. I can roughly guess how much petrol I have based on kilometers driven since the fill up, but the car isn't consistent enough on fuel to totally trust that.
Does anyone here have a fuel gauge sending unit they are willing to part with? I have been searching high and low for one and it seems to be made from unobtainium. Dealers are telling me it's an obsolete part. I did find one on a website but the price was a bit rich for my blood, like over $200 plus taxes and shipping.
Keep in mind, this car is an '88 with the fuel gauge sender separate from the fuel pump and is located in the front of the fuel tank. If I had my time back, I would have ordered a tank with pump/sending unit in one from a later model car and installed that instead of the two different units.
Even if you don't have one in your possession, if you find one at a JY and could be so kind as to pluck it out for me and send it, I'll pay for it and the shipping so long as it's not a ridiculous price.
Thanks in advance mangs.

[VicCrownVic]

Does your car have the digital cluster or analog? (sorry if this has been answered already, ctrl+f failed me if you already mentioned it)

I believe I read somewhere on the Internet (so it must be true) that the digital cluster uses a sending unit with a different resistance range compared to the analog. If what I read is correct, the fuel sending unit for a TC with digital cluster will use the same resistance range as 90+ panthers.

For Analog clusters on 89 and down panthers:
Low fuel = high resistance = 60-86 ohms
Full fuel = low resistance = 8-12 ohms.

For all clusters on 90+ panthers:
Empty = 15 ohms
Full = 160 ohms

If anyone is able to find a stock TC sending unit they may need to know if it is for the digital cluster or not.

[nfldfordltd]

Does your car have the digital cluster or analog? (sorry if this has been answered already, ctrl+f failed me if you already mentioned it)

I believe I read somewhere on the Internet (so it must be true) that the digital cluster uses a sending unit with a different resistance range compared to the analog. If what I read is correct, the fuel sending unit for a TC with digital cluster will use the same resistance range as 90+ panthers.

For Analog clusters on 89 and down panthers:
Low fuel = high resistance = 60-86 ohms
Full fuel = low resistance = 8-12 ohms.

For all clusters on 90+ panthers:
Empty = 15 ohms
Full = 160 ohms

If anyone is able to find a stock TC sending unit they may need to know if it is for the digital cluster or not.

Analog cluster it is. I sort of said that in the original post but not as clear as I could have been lol.
I didn't check the sender for resistance, but something's definitely wonky when it hunts around so much and has a flat spot with no resistance causing it to read over-full and stay like it until it's almost empty.

[VicCrownVic]

Lol, you did say needle.
I'll keep any eye open for one at the JY. By the time I find one you might already have found one yourself, but we do tend to have decent box picking around here.

[nfldfordltd]

Lol, you did say needle.
I'll keep any eye open for one at the JY. By the time I find one you might already have found one yourself, but we do tend to have decent box picking around here.

I doubt that, as there is NO box picking around this area. I had to buy a '92 for the trunk floor earlier the spring. If you or anyone else finds one, just pull it and let me know you have it. Tell me how much it's worth (including shipping) and I'll paypal the money straight away. Then send it (PM for address) and then I won't run out of gas.

[VicCrownVic]

Even if someone else finds one for you before I do I may grab one just to have for the next person that needs one.

[nfldfordltd]

Even if someone else finds one for you before I do I may grab one just to have for the next person that needs one.

Good idea. There is a need for them and they are really hard to get, at a reasonable price at least.

[nfldfordltd]

I already mentioned this in other threads, but I'll post it here as well for the hell of it.
LTB a couple of A/C clutch cycling pressure switch O-rings. New are preferred, but used and not stretched are fine as well. They are thick O-rings that fit on over the outside of a typical schrader valve.
I already bought O-rings but the thickness of the rubber wasn't right, leading to leaking refrigerant.
Doesn't matter where they are or come from. PM me and we can work out price and shipping cost.

[nfldfordltd]

Just a little update for 2016:
Took the car from Goose Bay to Toronto and return this past spring. Left home on April 20, got home again May 8. Averaged over 20 mpg for the entire trip.
7000 km round-trip. Used about 5 quarts of oil for the entire trip.
Had an alternator brush failure on the way home near Baie Comeau, QC. It was the alternator I put on it back in 2006, which was 3-4 years old at that time. Of course, there wasn't any in my spare parts bin that I carry on long trips. Everything but.
Had to wait in a hotel there for three days while a replacement alternator came in through Canadian Tire. Got it fixed and on the road again, no more trouble the rest of the way home.
Since I've been home, the engine is losing power and starting to smoke with a very distinct lopo knock. The knock has been audible since the overheating happened in 2011, but now it's a lot worse. I haven't used it a lot since May, but I'm not thinking valve stem seals as it doesn't smoke on start up, only after it's been running for a while. Not smoking bad or using a lot of oil, but that knock is making me concerned about how much longer it's going to last. Kind of afraid to go on any kind of a long haul, as it's 300 km to the nearest gas station...and no cell phone service in 90% of the area.
I was going to do an EFI 351W build some winter, then install in the car in the spring. But since 351W blocks are unobtainium around here, I'm thinking I will go with another 302. I have the chance to get a 1993 F-150 that's already well underway to being scrapped. It has what appears to be a clean 5.0 engine, and the transmission/exhaust is already removed. I'm thinking my best bet is to remove that engine, strip it, check the block for damage (cracks, warpage, cylinder wall scoring, etc.) and build it up over the winter to go into the Lincoln. Maybe even do an HO conversion since I'll have it all apart and I'll have a long Labrador winter to gather parts and build it. I would rebuild my own engine but I don't trust that it's not warped up after overheating it so bad five years ago. No shame for it IMO. Plus, I can keep an engine in the car while I build the new one and still be able to move the car around the yard during the winter if I have to.
If I understand correctly, the 1993 truck 5.0 was the last year for lopo firing order in truck 5.0s, but it is a roller-ready block and has E7 heads. I know it's a speed density EEC-IV setup. Some of that will obviously change if I do go ahead with the HO conversion. Has anyone else here done the HO conversion on a pre-1994 truck 5.0? I assume it's close to a car lopo conversion. Anything I should pay special attention to? I'll be doing a complete rebuild since it will be out on a stand and stripped. Only thing I'm planning on using are block, heads, crankshaft and distributor from the truck. I'll use the basepan, front cover, accessory brackets and pulleys from the car. Most everything else will be new, including camshaft. Advice on a nice street-friendly cam also welcome. Probably do the heads while it's apart with new valve stem seals and a good cleanup.
I assume 8.8" gears from a truck will work with the 8.8" rear axle/carrier in the car? If the truck has 3.55 gears like most of those older F-150s had, I'm keen on changing that as well.
All this on a modest budget. Like in the car and running for less than $2000.
Have I gone mad as a hatter?

[Tiggie]

Sounds like a good plan. Old engine is certainly hurting if its using that much oil and knocking too.

I think the truck would use a remote mount TFI module whereas yours is distributor mounted. May be best to just get a new one for spec'd for your car. Be sure the drive gear and cam are compatible.

Guess there is no chance the F150 long block is usable as is (without machine work)? Any chance you can get it running in the truck to check oil pressure? Compression and leak down checks too can be done without it running. I do think a 93 would have a roller cam, so that would make it even easier on the budget to just pop in a different roller cam that matches what you are doing in your HO conversion.

I also think the f150 will have 19lb injectors you'll need for your conversion.

[nfldfordltd]

Sounds like a good plan. Old engine is certainly hurting if its using that much oil and knocking too.

I think the truck would use a remote mount TFI module whereas yours is distributor mounted. May be best to just get a new one for spec'd for your car. Be sure the drive gear and cam are compatible.

Guess there is no chance the F150 long block is usable as is (without machine work)? Any chance you can get it running in the truck to check oil pressure? Compression and leak down checks too can be done without it running. I do think a 93 would have a roller cam, so that would make it even easier on the budget to just pop in a different roller cam that matches what you are doing in your HO conversion.

I also think the f150 will have 19lb injectors you'll need for your conversion.

There's nothing wrong with my own distributor, I just wanted to use the truck part with the TFI relocated away from the heat where it is directly on top of the engine. I'll be sure to look after any conflict that may occur as a result of using a different camshaft with respect to the drive gear.
The transmission is already out of the truck so getting it running would be a major PITA but in any event, I'm going to do a full tear down and install all new bearings, seals and rings, timing set, gaskets, etc. I may turn it by hand for a compression check before I tear it down. Just hoping the block, heads and crank are fine as they are. Still might do the heads while it's all apart just because. If it already has 19 lb injectors, that's definitely a bonus.
Might even paint it while it's out and all apart

[nfldfordltd]

Any suggestions/recommendations as to where is a good place to look for a good master engine rebuild kit for this project? I'm having a hard time finding a good one anywhere online for a decent price. All my mechanic buddies are telling me to look up Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW) in British Columbia but everything I find on them now says they're closed up.
Rock Auto has kits listed but the master rebuild kits are in the $1000~ range, I'm sure I can get something still good at a better price than that. Rock Auto is decent but sometimes they send the wrong stuff and because shipping cost is such a bitch here, sending it back for exchange/refund is a real PITA. I'd rather deal with an exclusive engine parts shop if possible.
I did find the Northern Auto Parts store on eBay, but they don't stock anything for the newer 5.0's, only older 70's 302 stuff.
The truck engine will come home this weekend if the stars align properly. The front clip is pretty much off and out of the way now, only a bit of work to let the engine go and pluck it out. Hopefully the weather will co-operate and I won't be called out for work every hour.

[gadget73]

I would take the block to the machine shop and have them order it after the machine work is done. Guaranteed that whatever you order, you're going to need something different. The pistons won't be right or the crank will need to be turned down, something like that.

[nfldfordltd]

I wasn't going to order anything until after I had assessed the block and heads very carefully. Just looking for parts sources; was looking around after I posted earlier today and found some that appear decent through the Summit website, and reasonably priced too. I might be SOL if the block needs machine work because the machine shop here isn't very sophisticated. I know the guy that owns it, I'll talk to him and see what he can do if any machine work indeed has to be done. Then go from there.

[nfldfordltd]

Heart transplant is underway now, finally. Got the donor engine home last Thursday, truck 5.0 from a 1993 F-150. Not an ideal engine to start with as it's the last year truck with the lopo firing order but I'm still scrounging parts to do the HO conversion. Couldn't justify looking any longer for a "better" base engine to start with when I got the truck engine for free, just had to take it out and bring it home. Transmission was already out so lifting it was easy. I got an intake setup from a 1986 Capri RS (I know the upper is the same as lopo, but the throttle body and EGR spacer is 58mm, still better than stock car lopo parts) I'll get it running with that first then change it later if I happen to obtain the correct 87+ parts later on when funds allow such a purchase.
Truck engine is super clean, but hasn't been running for about 10 years or so. Full teardown and rebuild is on the work order in the upcoming months prior to installation in the car. Pics to follow as work progresses. As of now I need a cam and higher volume fuel pump to put it all together. I'm not in a hurry as I have all a long Labrador winter to get it done. Probably looking at installing the new engine in late April or May sometime, which is when the car would normally be taken out of storage anyway.
Kudos to Scott for supplying the Mark VII ECM.