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    How bad does removing stock manifolds suck?

    Not sure on these cars. On GM trucks for instance, like my 95, the bolts break off easily. In my case, I have a bolt head snapped off a back bolt so I now have a nice ticking gasket leak.

    I don't want to go through that on my Lincoln, but because everyone says Mustang shorties are a nice gain on a stock lopo and they seal nicely, I'd like to give it a shot.

    Everyone here who's done it, what have you done that was successful? Did you just soak the bolts in PB Blaster, heat them with a torch?

    Also what's the best way to get the new headers to seal? I know that stock manifold gaskets are the best to use (for aftermarket headers, not manifolds), but that permatex copper silicone gasket maker is better, gives it a factory-like seal. Is it a good idea to have a machine shop machine the surfaces flat so they'll mate to the heads better? I thought I remember reading that stock shorties don't warp like aftermarket shorties do, but I assume it may be a good idea to get them checked.
    88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
    Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

    #2
    It all depends how rusty they are, if they have ever been off before, and how long ago. I'd just crack every bolt loose on both sides first - that way you wont have one side off already when a few on the other side break, then have to put it back together to drive it to a shop.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
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      #3
      I have never, ever had a bolt break on one one of these things, unlike the studs on those modular disasters. I really, really, really hate those.

      I've always just ran replacement fel pro gaskets, never had an issue with leaks.
      2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
      2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
      2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
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        #4
        On my Lincoln, it's not super rusty but it's spend a good deal of its life sitting, and I'd be shocked if the manifolds have ever been off.

        I'd hope I can just soak them in PB Blaster for a few hours or whatever and give them a shot. I think I'd put a breaker bar on the bolt and tap with a hammer to see about breaking the rust loose, soaking them again and then some more hammering before I put force on it to break them loose. And yeah, Fel Pro replacements would be my first choice, heard that's the best brand to use, to stay away from Mr Gasket.
        88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
        Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

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          #5
          I've also never lost a bolt on a 302 exhaust manifold.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #6
            If you have the use of a torch, its cheap insurance. I used a torch to heat around the bolts on my red '90, and had no issues removing them. I think thats the only one I ever took the manifolds off of.

            I recently pulled the manifolds off the 390 in my truck, and folks were telling me I would snap the top bolts (they are through holes). I suspect they were off not that long ago, because it went fairly easily, without the use of a torch.
            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
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              #7
              If was very easy for me. Mine were untouched for the life of the car and they came out very easily.
              __________________________________________________


              1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
              The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

              Originally posted by SVT98t
              It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

              That is how you're supposed to jack it.

              Up and down.

              -ryan s.

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                #8
                I didn't have any issues with the Crown Vic. They just came off with a breaker bar; after soaking the bolts for a month with Kroil. My old Malibu came off with just a ratchet; but I discovered that wasn't the original 305 that came with the car. The only trouble I had was with the 390FE in my father's '73 F-350. That truck only had 30k on the odometer (31 years old when I messed with it) and spent most of its time sitting. Those bolts took repeated blasts of a torch and an electric impact; plus a month's worth of soaking with PB Blaster and WD-40. It all depends on the vehicle's history.

                Packman

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                  #9
                  where the exhaust bolt up to the manifolds is a nightmare here in the salt belt but the bolts the the heads always come out easy on the 302's. Just to help it out, a good soak in penetrating oil atleast loosens up the heads than give each 1 a good crack with a hammer to shock them and all will back right out for ya
                  Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
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                    #10
                    i was lucky on mine. many have said beware of snapping the bolt heads off but when i did mine it went beautifully and i even did it with a 3/8 ratchet and a little pipe just for a bit of leverage. (dont use pipes on ratchets just FYI)

                    the way i feel i succeeded was, for about a week after after everytime i drove the car as soon as i parked i had a can of PB blaster or wd40 in the car id shoot each bolt while they were all hot. probably on average it was twice a day for a week then the last day, the day i pulled them i shot them again and let them cool to a temperature i wouldnt get burned by touching, then shot them again and started slowly taking them all off. after it was all said and done they came out fairly easily.
                    Charlette - Brown 1977 Ford LTD - 351 Windsor 155K, Full Custom Pioneer system, green HID, interior & underbody
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                      #11
                      No issues with the bolts on the manifold. Now the studs in the manifold that bolt the downpipes. Those break. But easily removed.

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                        #12
                        the lower bolts are much less likely to break if you torch them first. Once they glow red, the nuts typically spin right off. Make sure you have a long extension and have somewhere to chuck the nuts after they come out in the socket. You'll touch one once.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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