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surface rust, best way to remove

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    surface rust, best way to remove

    Hi,
    What is the best way to remove surface rust without having to go to a machine shop?
    Is there anything I can spray on that will remove the surface rust and something to spray on to help prevent rusting?

    Thank you,
    Mike






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    90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
    90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
    91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
    70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

    #2
    for all those cylinder bores and mating surfaces and rod surfaces... I'd say you're screwed without honing/decking/polishing all of that to fresh metal. all rust removers will etch the metal.

    To prevent rusting... anything oil. Spray some used motor oil on everything every 3-6 months and it should keep the rust away. Obviously keeping stuff out of the elements will help loads.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      You need to have those engines goto the machine shop. No chance. They need to be hot tanked and honed.
      __________________________________________________


      1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
      The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

      Originally posted by SVT98t
      It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

      That is how you're supposed to jack it.

      Up and down.

      -ryan s.

      Comment


        #4
        Yep, nice pile of core motors there.
        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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          #5
          Originally posted by sly View Post
          for all those cylinder bores and mating surfaces and rod surfaces... I'd say you're screwed without honing/decking/polishing all of that to fresh metal. all rust removers will etch the metal.

          To prevent rusting... anything oil. Spray some used motor oil on everything every 3-6 months and it should keep the rust away. Obviously keeping stuff out of the elements will help loads.
          Chainsaw bar lube works the best to prevent rust after cleaning and machining. It WILL LAST FOR DECADES.
          Scars are tatoos of the fearless

          Comment


            #6
            The shredder at the scrap yard will take care of that too, but if you want to use those engines they need to go for machine shop work. The required surface finish is not something you can get by wiping something onto a rusty surface.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by turbo2256b View Post
              Chainsaw bar lube works the best to prevent rust after cleaning and machining. It WILL LAST FOR DECADES.
              I've been meaning to ask about that. I saw a jug on sale for a relatively cheap price some months ago, but just from shaking the jug it seemed like the oil was the same consistency as motor oil. I was figuring it would be some kind of thick gooey spray-on stuff. Is the runny stuff the right stuff?

              2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
              mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

              Comment


                #8
                It is a bit thicker than most oil and a bit gooey and stringy. It was designed to cling to metal and displace water. Eventually it hardens up its not easy to remove.
                I use it for undercoating some of my rides, blocks, cranks, rods, pistons, pins, cams, lifters, any machine surface, threads, splines.
                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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